ZISS480DRKSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

follow the easy instructions replace 3 temperature sensors cut the wires and crimp them with new sensor and it works like new

I turned water off at valve and unplugged refrigerator. I removed screws to remove cardboard cover at bottom. I removed screw holding duel inlet water valve bracket and pulled out valve. Then it's just a matter of exchanging electrical connections and water lines. The electrical connections unplug and plug in-red to red and blue to blue. The water lines are two different sizes so they can't be mixed up. Then reattach bracket and cardboard cover. Turn water back on and plug back in.

This should have been easy, but I couldn't get the housing shield off. I removed the 4 screws but it wouldn't come off. It seemed to be stuck in the lower right. (It seems that many people have the same problem.) I decided to destroy the old one and install a new dispenser housing shield, and replace the flapper while I was at it. I finally got the shield off (by taking a pipe wrench to it and breaking it into little pieces) and discovered what the problem was: the light in the lower right had melted the plastic of the dispenser shield, which fused to the plastic of the housing! Bad design, GE! After that, it was no problem. However, I couldn't remember how to replace the microswitch. I should have taken a picture, first. Duh. Lucky for me, Parts Select had a very informative video showing how to replace the microswitch. ! was saved! Thanks, Part Select!

Replaced evaporator fan motor, and this solved the whistling noise that had developed. Reviewed and followed the removal and installation instruction video as closely as possible. This was very helpful, with a few additions. For the model PS123NGPBBB GE refrigerator/freezer, there were a few differences from the video. There a was an additional cover panel that was positioned vertically at the back of the freezer compartment below the auger motor assembly. It was necessary to remove this cover (4 screws) to gain access to the auger motor cover screws. The unit also has a different light configuration with 2 lights. I found it helpful to remove these light bulbs and the corresponding light fixtures in order to remove the evaporator motor assembly. As mentioned in the video, it was necessary to cut the 4 wires from the wire harness of the new motor, and use butt end connectors to reattach these wires to the corresponding wires in the unit. Total job took between 1 and 2 hours, and the motor change solved the noise problem.

Used a YouTube video with step by step directions, this made the repair very easy.

Emptied the ice from tray.
Removed the four screws that hold the face plate.
Removed the four screws that fasten drive housing to the tray.
Slid the drive cup into place at the end of the auger.
Made sure the rubber gasket was in place .
Replaced the four screw that hold the housing to the tray.
Replaced the four screws that hold the face plate.
Put some ice cubes in the tray and tested to be sure everything worked properly.

Disassembled ice-maker, noting what screws went where, what direction ice release control arm pointed, and noting how the control arm spring was mounted. The door assembly comes off first followed by the circular assembly that houses the ice door and last grinding arms. It is quite easy see how it comes apart as you look at the screws. Remove the screw holding the back end of the control arm and note the spring position. The control arm needs to be turned to line up notches to pull it thru a faceplate hole while rotating the arm about the "U" that is on the outside of the faceplate in the door housing. There is a retaining clip holding the rotating impeller to remove to complete the dis-assembly. Use vinegar to clean rust out of bin and other parts around the faceplate. Assemble the unit in the reverse order to complete the job.

I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.

Found your web site and bought a couple of replacement parts from you guys and reaaembled unit. Its now working. Only issue I had was in the reassembly of the auger unit, wasn't quite sure of the blades etc. and the proper order Saw the sketch on your site and figured it out from that. Will visit you guys again when I need a part. Good delivery and timely. Thanks and regards Gil

removed the back cover, removed one srew that held the valve, disconnected water lines, and installed the new valve. Piece of cake!

After inspection of the new door recess assembly, I realized that I could use sidecutters (electronic assembly type) and 'clip' off the inward lock tabs of the old recess assembly and disengage it from the crank door arm without any further disassembly of the refrigerator door. It was easy to 'unhitch' the tang from the crank arm and wiggle it out through the external opening of the ice/water dispenser compartment. I reversed the process and inserted the new assembly through the external opening of the compartment. The new door recess assembly snapped into place on the crank arm and fit tightly against the ice chute opening, correcting the issue caused by aging distortion of the old rubber seal cup portion of the door recess assembly.

My GE SideBySide fridge stopped making ice. The green LED light on the icemaker was not blinking. The water dispenser worked fine. Fridge is only 5 years old. Freezer temp set at 7 degrees...fridge at 37 degrees. I have been using these temps since new. GE hotline suggested freezer temp should be at zero degrees. That did not work. Second call suggested an airflow issue within the freezer...there should be 1 inch space between food and back wall. Still no ice. The water valve looks to be the issue. I ordered it and got it in 2 days. Valve is in the back bottom, refridgerator side. Push the white collars around the water hoses...Then pull the hoses out. An adjustable wrench removes the nut for the inlet hose. Disconnect 2 electrical plugs. Be sure to push the water hoses fully into the new valve. I pulled the white collars out a bit to insure a tight fit. I was surprised at how simple this was to install. As it turns out, I was still getting no ice. I ordered a new ice maker and now I'm getting ice. The icemaker was EVEN EASIER to install.

Went exactly by the video. Perfect job, you send the installation video with the part. You watch the video before or during, goof proof, took longer to disassemble than to replace the part.

I put the water hoses out the valve and put the hoses back in new valve after that put the valve in the same place with the nutdriver. When refrigerator take the temperature inside, the ice began really easy. Thank you.

Changing out solenoid was very easy, but you don't have to remove trim ring and it didn't fix my problem. Turns out a relay fell out of its holder in the piece you have after removing the 4 screws per the video.