ZCSP480DMBSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

The only tricky part was removing the front panel. Releasing the latches required considerable force. The best tool I found was a "jack knife" type Allen wrench set, using the medium size wrench, which fit into the release hole and upward pressure did the trick. The rest of the job was very easy.

The trouble with DIYers is that they don't have very much experience with and the benefit of several repairs on the same appliance. So they must rely on their mechanical abilities and the youtube help of Steve. So they must resort to eliminating the variables as their diagnostic approach. In my case I was unable to find the exact description of my problem, so I began with what seemed like the most likely and the least expensive replacement. So after I had replaced the water valve, the micro switch and the main board I finally found the problem was the water filter by ordering and installing a water bypass valve which I did not have readily available at the start.

Bent the motor bracket down, then using a rat tail file, elongated the holes in the back panel of the refrigerator to secure the fan in the "centered" position. This was a problem that was with the refrig. since it was made. The parts involved were perfect. NO problem at all installing them.

We followed the instructions we found on this site.

First we unplugged the refrigerator.

Then we removed the control panel that has the ice type selection on it by releasing the three spring latches. These are accessible from the bottom of the panel looking up toward the ice dispenser. There are three holes. Press a narrow screwdriver or punch in each of these holes and then pull out the control panel. (Be careful not to disconnect the wires, but observe how the wires are routed.)

Then we removed the ice tube cover that covers the solenoid assembly. There were four screws. One was very rusty and it required some WD40 to loosen it. Once the cover was removed the solenoid was visible on the right. (It has a floating component that attaches to the "arm" of the flap. This is how the solenoid opens and closes the flap. The flap needs to close properly so ice does not build up in the door.)

There were three screws that had to be removed to get the solenoid out. (The top one you may just need to loosen once the bottom two are removed.) When the solenoid was removed we also removed the old floating component from the flap are and replace it with the new one. We slid this into the solenoid hole and then screw it in with the three screws.

Before we attached everything, we plugged in the refrigerator to test the solenoid. We dispensed some ice and waited to hear the flap close. (The flap close is slightly delayed so be patient.)

We attached the cover that was over the solenoid being careful to route the wires as they were when we started. We test the solenoid again. Then we snapped the control panel back into place and tested again.

We found that having the right size screwdriver made a difference especially dealing with rusty screws. It was also handy to have a good flashlight. Having extra hands was helpful to hold the control panel and cover while working on the solenoid and routing the wires.

The model we have, the front panel snaps into place. It was removed for access and the electrical connectors unplugged. Four screws and the chute assembly was removed. Removing three screws and opening the chute door allowed the solenoid assembly to be removed without removing the door assembly. All parts and area were cleaned and the assemmbly was the process in reverse.
Guideline to prolong recurrance: always put ice into glass first to reduce splashing of ice falling into liquids causing the solenoid armature to rust and stick.

This time I did not make repair. I have purchased only to have spare parts. I have changed this parts recentely and I think this parts are not strong enough to work more than two or three years.

I unplugged the unit and removed the modeling around the beverge center on the exterior door. At this point I was able to remove the face place to the icemaker and gain access to the ice maker doors csrews. I unscrewed them and replaced them with the new part and reassembled in the reverse order. Generally an easy fix for a poor design for novice handy man/women...

First remove trim surrounding ice/water dispenser assembly. Use a flat spackle knife to obtain space between door and trim. Be careful not t scratch refrigerator door. Then pry trim off. This was the most difficult part of repair. The front plate of the dispenser is held to the back of the dispenser by two friction fastners and in the case of my refrigerator a phillips screw (some don't have screw in middle). Use a small round tool like an allen wrench to push up on the 2 fastners to release them. Next push the front assembley aside and remove the 4 screws holding the back part of the dispenser. Push that assembly aside. Remove the defective solenoid assembly by removing the 3 mounting screws. The solenoid base can be worked out by slipping it out of the solenoid assembly plunger still attached to the dispenser door assembly. Next slide the plunger off of the dispenser door assembly. Install new solenoid assembly by reversing this procedure.
Hint - I found the ice door assembly (wr17x11653) also needed replacement and it is well worth the effort to replace both at the same time.

1. Use skewer to press plastic tabs under control panel, 2. Remove control panel and unplug solenoid, 3. Unscrew dispenser assembly and solenoid screws, 4. Press in tabs on lamp and remove assembly - unplug, 5. Replace lamp assembly, 6. Replace solenoid assembly and fasten screws, 7. Replace flapper. 8. Replace other parts in reverse order.

had to remove ice maker and several panels to get to the fan. wires for fan encapsulated so had to cut old and new wires then solder them together while working inside the small freezer area. not too bad all in all took about an hour to get it done. no more wind thru the trees noise and is working fine

Unplugged the freezer. Then I gained access to the fan: remove the top freezer rack, remove the ice tray, remove the air flow manifold(needed to unscrew some screws), remove the manifold over the fan and cooling element. I unscrewed the fan mounting bracket. The fan motor's wires are plumbed through some plastic that i would have had to remove, so I decided instead to cut the wires and splice in the new fan motor. Then I put everything back together - the new motor works fine and doesn't make the whining noise.

I followed the video provided, and followed the advice of bill from cleveland hts. ohio, and did not have to remove the trim to access everything. The video made it so simple, a monkey could have learned how in 5 minutes. Thank you very much for all the help on this website. I will recommend it to all.

Followed the on line video. Clear, concise & easy. Thanks.

Removed access panel on freezer door, removed circuit board, removed and replaced solenoid, reinstalled previously removed parts

I followed the instructions posted by previous custmers and they were accurate and simple