MTS17BBSDRWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

After removing all items from the broken top, I removed both drawers and crisper top. I then slid the new top in place and replaced the drawers which easily slid into the grooves in the underside of the top.

I popped out the old plastic shelf and slid in the new one. It was self explanatory and took less than one minute with no tools.

I took out the old shelf and popped in the new one. Took 1 minute or less. The delivery was in 2 days! Amazing experience! My refrigerator feels brand new.

I watched the video online, followed the instructions and within minutes had the part installed. The frig light was working once again! I will say the original switch was very snug and I had to do some very minor scraping of the plastic to get the new part to slide in.

I must thank yo for sending the fan so fast. If I ever have to deal with any appliance again, you are first on my list.

First, I love that fact that my new fridge piece came in the mail in 2 days! I didn't order it as a rush, but I'm so glad it came so quickly! The installation could not have been easier! It took me longer to clear off my broken vegetable pan cover than it did to pop the new one in. My overall experience was amazing and super easy! I'll be back to PartSelect should I need I need to replace anything else in the future.

new cover slipped right in place, however, the way the new one is designed, the hump in the front rubs the bottom of the door. you have to make sure you push the door shut or it will remain open .

took old one out replace new one less then minute

Turned off the breaker to the fridge because I couldn't reach the power plug to unplug it . Use small flat head screwdriver to pop out the piece, disconnected the rubber prong connectors, inserted the new piece into the rubber prongs snapped it back into place. Flipped the breaker back on and prayed it worked. It did and I saved myself $120 service call.

I simply slipped in the new drawer cover and put the drawers in. So easy!

Unplug the refrigerator removed the condenser/ compressor cover back bottom on fridge, remove the relay from the compressor took off the two wires, replace with new relay

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

put the gratefruit knife behind the old switch pooped it out pluged the new one in piece of cake 5min.even vacumed the dust off the coil

Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.

with a jewelry screwdriver I pried the lock tab in and pulled switch down carefully, the hardest part was that the power wire connector was stuck on good but the pliers and the jewelry screwdriver was its match for a bout 5 minute for one connection a simple pull off prong connection. After the wire connected back to switch it popped back in SNAPP