GTS18GBEMRBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

shelf just snapped into place. It was so simple, "even a caveman could do it."

removed from previous veg humidity drawer the humidity scale, careful pry plastic piece from the edge until both complete edges are exposed, gently pull humidity scale away from veg humidity drawer. veg humidity drawer has vent open and closer behind the veg humidity scale, with veg humidity drawer removed firmly grasp insert triangle shaped tabs and squeeze together while pulling the veg humidity drawer vent open and closer towards the back of the drawer, once released maneuver the adjust tab out the veg humidity drawer vent. replaced old veg humidity drawer vent closer in new veg humidity drawer by maneuvering the vent closer large tab into square shaped hole till rest of vent closer and opener is in a flat position on the drawer, push firmly on vent closer and opener evenly until triangle shape tabs lock into place, next place veg humidity drawer scale on pull of veg humidity drawer place the top of the scale on the sharp edge of the drawer and push evenly down on veg humidity scale till long piece snaps in place.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

put the gratefruit knife behind the old switch pooped it out pluged the new one in piece of cake 5min.even vacumed the dust off the coil

Extremely easy repair, the hardest part was getting the old switch out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs in and it came right out.

This was so easy I think it took me 2 minutes. I am not very mechanically inclined but that didn't matter! Works perfect thank you!

Just put the refrigerator door shelf in. Was to happy to fix this missing piece. So glad this company was able to supply an old part.

Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.

Pop out switch, pull wires, attach wires to new switch and pop back in. Easy smeasy!

It was way to ez to install only a couple of minutes that's it

Easy

took a little more effort than the video show to remove old module and replace new. Works fine now.

Easy

On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.

Took screws out of doors and replaced new handles, So easy even a cave man could do it.