GTJ18GCDGRSA General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Performed self test.turned off ice maker switch four 5 minutes.Then turn on switch,within 10 seconds,pushed ice paddle 3 times,with 1 second in between each push.Push all the way back and release. Ice maker should cycle and squirt water. My ice maker did neither.I unplugged cord from fridge.So i replaced the ice maker.After a couple of screws had ice again !

I'm a 73 year old female but this was easy pezy. 3 screws and it was done. Perfect fit..

Super simple. Extremely fast delivery of part. Simply disconnect the 2 fast-on connectors to valve, disconnect intake and out lines. connect intake and out tubes to new unit, mount via screws to fridge, reconnect the 2 fast-on power connectors and your back in business. Could not be an easier repair.

I first replaced the ice maker and when that didn't work, I found out through this forum that another possibility is the water outlet valve.

When I got the replacement, it took some time to install because the bracket wasn't the same as the original. There are enough places on the bracket to mount the unit, but it may require using some force to bend the bracket so that it will flush with the wall.

After installation, it took about 2 days to fill up the ice bin. It cycles out ice crescents every 2-3 hours.

Thanks partselect for having this forum and saving me some money by having others share their experiences.

Remove power from the unit. With short length #2 Phillips loosen and remove the two(2) screws on the control panel located center top of the refrigeration area. Slide the control panel back about 1/2 inch and allow it to dangle from its wiring harness. Pinch the locking tab on the harness connector with one hand and use the other hand to separate the two sides. A little force is required. Remove the control panel from the refrigerator and shut the refrigerator door. Examine and note the routing of the temperature probe (Silver colored flexible wire) take a picture for later reference. Remove the old and replace with new unit. route temperature probe like the replaced unit. Reverse the steps and reinstall the control panel. It is a good idea to also purchase and replace the defrost timer.

Emptied the lower area of food, removed the drawers and the removed the broken shelf frame. My glass was unbroken so after removing it from the broken frame and cleaning it, I just had to place it in the new frame and put it in the frig. Can't believe how easy and quick the whole process was. I can now utilized all that wasted space in my frig again.

Simply unwrapped and slipped them in place.

Just snapped in.

removed broken bin , slid new ice bin in closed door. I bought the complete part.

All the repair people was on the money . I read them all .1--- NO paper work with new valve (.no instructions) ..2--- bracket is not the same .. I reversed my braket and it worked fine .you do not have to bend bracket.3--- It will take a day or so to start making ice..4--- the plastic nut is no longer needed on the new type outlet valve ....5--- the new outlet valve looks a little different from the old valve. WORKS GREAT ..

Unplug refridge then loosened two bolts holding old ice maker. Lower then unplug and removed. Plugged in new harness and tightened two bolts to secure new ice maker. Plug in frig and wait for ice.

Ordered the frame and put it in.

I took the broken piece out and replace it with the new replacement shelf

Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.

after watching how easy it was to get to the evaporator fan motor on u-tube, I took out the motor to inspect it......the motor had about 1/8 inch shaft end play and a slight amount of play on the shaft, the rubber grommets looked OK.....I then put it back together......since the motor was the only moving part in this location I figured it had to be the part making the noise, so I ordered a motor and 2 grommets …...the replacement motor also had 1/8 inch end play on the shaft, but no play on the shaft....I installed the new parts and it has been a week now and no noise.....SUCCESS!...….the shaft on the motor protrudes from the motor, and the fan is mounted about 1 1/4 inch away from the bearing in the motor and the fan is unsupported, so I ASSUME that the slight amount of play on the shaft caused some harmonics which caused it to make noise some of the time, but not all of the time......