38489KBSURSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Pop out switch, pull wires, attach wires to new switch and pop back in. Easy smeasy!

Unplugged refrigerator Removed the cover in freezer compartment
Removed old thermostat and installed new
Replaced cover and plugged in refrigerator

It was way to ez to install only a couple of minutes that's it

On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.

took a little more effort than the video show to remove old module and replace new. Works fine now.

Easy

Pulled the two wires out from the access hole in the lower part of the refrigerator. Put them in the spade connectors on the new switch, and pushed the switch into place.

Just as your video described, although due to the age of the fridge, it took a bit longer to remove the defective switch. Your video made this so simple, I can't imagine why we lived with a dark fridge for so long! I was ready to buy a whole new fridge, as repairmen are often nonexistent for small repairs. I am the biggest fan of your company & it's repair video. THANK YOU SO MUCH

I found a replacement evaporator fan motor and 2 mounting bracket grommets at PartSelect.com at a reasonable price. I watched the installation video provided and installed the new parts as shown in the video start to finish installation time 22 minutes.i

Fan Quit So did the Ice Maker. $150.00 worth of parts plus my time. Also the Freezer Floor cracked for some stupid reason.

PartSelect shipped me the part and it arrived in less than 3 days. It took longer to unwrap the excellent packing than it did to pop the new door into place. Wonderful!

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

I used the socket set to remove pannel that allowed me to have access to the evaporator fan. Once the fan and it's container was visible, I removed the entire fan container using the socket set. I took the fan out of the container, removed the damage blade and the damaged fan grommets. I then replace the old blade with the new blade and put the fan and the compartment back together. I am not very handy so if I am able to do this, anybody can. Ps. I was very very pleased with the services I received from PartSelect and would encourage others to use them - must admit I was very suspicious at first.

I replaced the thermostat, temperature sensor, and the run capacitor. . . Refrigerator still not cooling. I checked the start relay and measured the input terminals on the compressor for the correct resistance. . . Everything measured correctly. In a last ditch effort before calling for service, I pulled the main board, inspected it and saw the problem right away. One leg on the compression capacitor had desoldered itself. Got out my soldering iron and applied a good amount of solder to that point. Put everything back together and turn it on. . . Problem fixed. The compressor kicked on right away and started cooling the refrigerator.

I followed advice from other posts on this web site. The only thing additional I'd recommend is to take pictures of assemblies before you disassemble them. A neighbor gave me that useful tip. It should be noted that I first noticed my refrigerator failure back on June 22, 2012. I hired a reputable local repair service to fix it. They replaced the Defrost heater (item 618) and charged me $ 208.14. Then on August 22nd, I noticed that the problem resurfaced. I decided to fix it myself using info from site. The repair went well, and I'm hopeful that it will stay repaired. Kudos to this site!