38489KBSRRSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.

Easy

Pulled the two wires out from the access hole in the lower part of the refrigerator. Put them in the spade connectors on the new switch, and pushed the switch into place.

I found a replacement evaporator fan motor and 2 mounting bracket grommets at PartSelect.com at a reasonable price. I watched the installation video provided and installed the new parts as shown in the video start to finish installation time 22 minutes.i

Fan Quit So did the Ice Maker. $150.00 worth of parts plus my time. Also the Freezer Floor cracked for some stupid reason.

Just as your video described, although due to the age of the fridge, it took a bit longer to remove the defective switch. Your video made this so simple, I can't imagine why we lived with a dark fridge for so long! I was ready to buy a whole new fridge, as repairmen are often nonexistent for small repairs. I am the biggest fan of your company & it's repair video. THANK YOU SO MUCH

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

PartSelect shipped me the part and it arrived in less than 3 days. It took longer to unwrap the excellent packing than it did to pop the new door into place. Wonderful!

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

Checked the defroster coil which is located behind the rear panel in the freezer compartment, it was still working. Followed the schematics down to the defrost timer, which is located in the lower front of the refrigerator and tried that. Plugged in the new part and the problem is solved.

Condenser fan motor was running slow. This was not a problem included in your list of possible problems. I thought that maybe the capacitor was bad but have no way to check it. So I ordered one. when I received it, I installed it. That was not the problem. So I ordered a fan motor and installed it. That was not the problem. So finally I ordered a control board and installed it. That solved the problem. So maybe you should put "cond.fan motor runs slow" in your list of possible faults and what causes that problem. Capacitor was easy to install, simply remove the cover plate, flip off retaining wire, unplug the capacitor and replace. Fan motor was a bit more difficult. It must be removed from mount after fan scroll is removed. Remove one screw that holds scroll, bend the top down and remove. Then pull hard on fan blade to remove it. It must be installed on new motor. Two screws in frame mount can be removed with some effort if you have a 1/4" drive ratchet with a Phillips screwdriver bit. Then pull frame open and install new motor. Push fan blade on new motor shaft hard. Replacing control board was easy. I used a pair of long nose pliers with 90 degree bend to get mounting pins closed to pull board off.

Because the kit did not include fasteners, had to use wood screws and superglue.

My fridge came with only a single snack pan, and since the glass shelves are identical I decided to order the parts needed for installing the second snack pan. The glass shelf is secured in front by a round plastic pin protruding from the side of the fridge. Once the shelf is lifted upward and free of this pin, the rear retaining ears on the metal shelf side brackets can be released from the vertical-slotted metal track at the rear of the fridge. Make certain that you have the Right and Left snack pan slides oriented correctly, and positioned on the correct side of the metal shelf brackets. You’ll need to thread two self-tapping screws into each of the snack pan slides: one near the front, and the other at the rear. These screws extend through the metal side brackets into pre-aligned holes in each pan slide. When this is completed, you can test-fit the new clear plastic pan slide (drawer) into the slides to make sure it fits correctly. All that's left to do is insert the retaining ears into the appropriate pair of slots at the rear, then lower the front of the glass shelf until it's properly positioned over the plastic support pin. Now you're ready to enjoy twice the snack pan capacity as before!

I used the socket set to remove pannel that allowed me to have access to the evaporator fan. Once the fan and it's container was visible, I removed the entire fan container using the socket set. I took the fan out of the container, removed the damage blade and the damaged fan grommets. I then replace the old blade with the new blade and put the fan and the compartment back together. I am not very handy so if I am able to do this, anybody can. Ps. I was very very pleased with the services I received from PartSelect and would encourage others to use them - must admit I was very suspicious at first.

I replaced the thermostat, temperature sensor, and the run capacitor. . . Refrigerator still not cooling. I checked the start relay and measured the input terminals on the compressor for the correct resistance. . . Everything measured correctly. In a last ditch effort before calling for service, I pulled the main board, inspected it and saw the problem right away. One leg on the compression capacitor had desoldered itself. Got out my soldering iron and applied a good amount of solder to that point. Put everything back together and turn it on. . . Problem fixed. The compressor kicked on right away and started cooling the refrigerator.