38471PBRMRWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Based on the relatively young age of refrigerator, I suspected the defroster electrical circuit. The evaporator core in the freezer was frozen solid, which confirms that the defrost heater circuit is not working. Thawed out (with a hot air gun) and disassembled the freezer section to access the evaporator core and defrost heater. If you have an ice maker, you will have to remove it to disassemble the freezer section. Confirmed with a voltmeter and ammeter that the defrost heater was not getting voltage. When the defrost heater is working, it will glow with an orange color. Also confirmed with a voltmeter that the defrost timer, located in the refrigerator section was working correctly. You can use a common blade screwdriver to rotate the timer through the cold and defrost cycles. Finally, I determined with a voltmeter and ammeter that the defrost thermostat, located on the evaporator core was not switching the defrost heater voltage. Ordered a new thermostat ($12) from this website and installed it. Refrigerator is as good as new. Be careful, there are many electrical hazards during the troubleshooting phase. Safety first.

easy as 1.2.3 remove and replace before even thinking. just to let you know i also do this for a living but it is one of the most difficult thing when you have to stop and fix your own

First, using a nut driver, I removed icemaker and back panel inside freezer. I unhooked the wire connectors at each end of the heater defrost element and replaced with new element. I reinstalled the back panel and the icemaker.
Second, using the same nut driver I removed the casing located inside fridge on the top. I pulled the casing down & unhooked the wiring harness. I removed the control temp switch which was held in by two clips. I replaced with new switch, plugged harness back in, reinstalled casing and BINGO....it is as good as new....beats buying a new refrigerator anyday!!!!
THANK YOU Bernard S.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sincerely,
Mom of three boys

as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.

10 minutes total.

This is a built-in unit. Remove the external bezel at the top of the unit. Reach through the unit and unplug the frig. On the compressor unit, you'll see a vertical metal panel. Remove the metal panel and the timer is right behind it. Remove one wire at a time and switch it to the new timer. Remove timer and replace with new one.

Just an added comment, GE Service wanted to put an "ice kit" into my unit. The full repairs would have cost $1,000. While I described how to replace the defrost timer, the problem was the tray heater. But that's another story.

I opened the back panel of the fridge and exposed the compressor. Unplugged existing run capacitor and installed new one with the addition of the sleeve that is stated must be installed around the run capacitor.
Everything I read and on this web site says that based on these symptoms, that the problem is the run capacitor. I searched and search for a part called a start relay which plugs in to the compressor. This run capacitor plugs in to this other part which I take as the start relay.

Installing this run capacitor did not solve the problem. The fridge compressor keeps cycling on and off. Freezer doesn't keep as cold as it should.

took out 4 screws - lowered timer cover - replaced timer- put it back together

I noticed that if I unplugged the refrigerator and plugged it back in a while later it would start working but eventually would stop. I deduced the problem was likely the defrost thermostat. I ordered the thermostat but it was in a difficult place behind the evaporator coil which I could not remove. While I was trying to work it into position my hand pressed against the defrost coil and shattered the glass sheath. I ordered the coil and finally managed to get it and the thermostat installed. The refrigerator seems to work fine now.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

I removed the shield over the timer and the part that supported the timer. Just unpluged it and pluged in new timer and put back shield. I had already replaced the defrost heaters which had totally burned up. I also replaced the thermostat while I was making the repairs although the old one was still o.k. All the information that I needed to make the repairs I obtained through your website. After looking at several websites to compare prices-etc, I found yours to be the best overall. Thanks-a-million your website is worth it's weight in Cold Food !

From instructions found on the site I was directed to the defrost timer part being bad. And from the information others posted that have had the same problem I was able to replace that part by removing the bottom grill just below the door and on the left side was the part. Removing one screw to remove the bracket from the frame and then another screw to remove the part from the bracket. I found it easier to remove the part from the bracket before I pulled the part out so I would have more room to unplug the connector. Just reverse the steps to replace the new part. It took about a day or so for the refrigerator to get to the proper temp.

Removed shelf by pushing to left and lifting up on RH end. Removed screws in plastic cooling tower and slid tower up. Pulled back wall of freezer compartment out, RH side first. Removed two screws from fan bracket, unplugged fan wiring harness by compressing connector spring clips and pulling joint apart. Pulled fan blade off (note location of blade on shaft for reinstall alignment purposes), removed both green grommets.Then just reinstalled new items.My philosphy on repairs of this nature is to replace all related parts that could be contributing to problem. The parts are cheap compared to the aggravation and inconvenience of doing the repair several times until you fix the problem. You don't need to purchase the compression ring if you buy the fan blade as it has one already installed on it. Problem solved, though now that the noise is gone am hearing fainter similar noises from lower fan. Should I be surprised, both fans are of similar design.

I took the advice off of your website about the only thing that will fix
the problem is change the run capacitor. I felt assured that I would
have a working refrigerator freezer after making this change. I was
pretty disheartened when it didn`t solve anything. I was not going to
take the new part back out after the small challenge of putting it in.
The next day I found out how to test the old capacitor and it was still
good. I will just have to eat the $49. I did learn not to take advice from
a website even if it seems like a sure thing

The part i received fit perfect, i just removed the old part and put the new part in with the screw driver.Really easy

Removed old fan and replaced the fan with new one.
2 years ago, the refrigerator was under warranty and tech replaced the fan but I found that the fan was not the original spec fan. Apparently, the fan that the tech replaced did not fit opening.

Now, my refrigerator works no problem. Save a ton of $$$ by doing it myself. Do not have to buy a new fridge and this one works perfect.