GTS22KBPCRWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

First, I had to remove the freezer drawer front. This is 8 large phillips head screws. then remove the plastic cover over the drawer slides. to do this, remove the white center screw from the slide near where it attaches to the drawer front. then the plastic cover will slide off pushing to the rear of the slide. take off the slides from the freezer walls by removing the phillips screws and pulling them towards you. They have tabs/slots in the rear. remove the center tray support and support bars, too. the icemaker has to come out, that is just 2 phillips screws but you also have to disconnect the electrical connector. just squeeze the locking wings and rock/pull. a screw in the top center of the back panel comes out. Lift and pull the back panel out. The evaporator coil appears. The thermocouple is attached to the coil in the upper right. Cut that one's wires and take it out. Just cut back about an inch from the back of the thermocouple, there is not much slack. Seperate and strip the wires back about 3/8 inch. Do the same for the new thermocouple. I twisted the wires together and used a solder sleeve to join the wires. The sleeve is just a little plastic tube that has a ring of solder in it that melts with heat gun heat. You can join the wires using butt connectors or whatever method appeals to you. I just wound the extra wire and put a cable tie around it, there is plenty of hiding space in that area. Make sure the new thermocouple is contacting the coil firmly.At this point, for a test, I left everything apart, propped the drawer against the opening and plugged the fridge in. Note that the evaporator fan will not start spinning immediately! It will just sit there making little bumps like it wants to go. The temp in the coil has to get settled before the electronics in the refridge will tell the fan to spin. It takes maybe 20 minutes. Reassemble. Fridge and freezer work great. It does take several hours for all to get cold again.

Had to remove all the covers and fans to expose the condenser, which was difficult as the parts were frozen to it. The styrofoam covering the condenser made it almost impossible to defrost it. Therefore, I ripped the styrofoam off to expose the condenser. Was not really difficult to fix the styrofoam cover using metal tape. Replaced temperature sensor in aluminum block, and used butyl sealant to secure. Had to also re-install parts of ice-ball kit that were not well covered. Lots of parts to keep track of, but anyone could do it.

1. Removed and tested defrost heater, tests good. 2. Reinstalled defrost heater. 3. Removed and tested defrost over-temperature sensor, tests good. 4. Reinstalled over-temperature sensor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 5. Removed the control printed circuit board and checked for blown fuse's, fuse's are all good. 6. Removed the defrost relay from the printed circuit board using soldering iron, bench tested the relay, it is good. 7. Soldered defrost relay back onto the circuit board, and reinstalled control board. 8. Removed and bench tested evaporator thermistor, the resistance is out of specification, ordered new thermister. 9. Installed new thermistor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 10. Re-assembled refrigerator. 11. Installed temperature monitoring and recording instrumentation for 72 hour test. The defrost cycle is running correctly with a defrost termination temperature of around 90 deg-f. The defrost cycle ran twice while running the 72 hour test. 11. Removed test instrumentation and Put the unit back into service, The thermistor was the culprit. I bought the right part on the first shot, nice.

I ordered 3 temperature Sensors Part#PS304103 and viewed the video. Got there, opened the frig. and it looked totally different and no place in any part of this frig. that took these sensors as viewed on the video. Totally baffled why these parts were listed for this frig. there was no place in this frig that would access for these parts. Serial # was HR443071.Maybe this model is out of date for these parts. Trying to find someone who can repair it. Any ideas???Purchased this GE in 2008. Model #is GSS25WSTFSS Thanks, for your help. JIM

On partselects video the gentleman removes the fan and housing in one piece. This is a great idea but does not work on this brand of ge. I removed the fan housing screw as instructed but left it in place and swiveled it enough to access the retaining screws with a socket driver. Over all swap of the fan was seamless and the video is a gem. Andy

Replaced above parts and the noise problem was not resolved. Ordered a new motor, fan blade and another set of grommets from PartSelect. The parts were delivered the next day. Took me about 15 minutes to swap the new parts in. It's been 3 days since the repair and the noise has not returned.

unplug fridge! removed ice maker. removed the back panel in frezer. I uncliped thermostat; cut wires on thermostat and installed new thermostat.

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.

I removed the ice marker first and took the back panel off using a nut driver. Be careful I had wires tied to the back panel, so I moved it like opening a door, right to left. The I removed the fan motor. Be careful not to damage the fan blades. I took the fan blades off and the dust cover. The dust cover was very tight. I had to use a very small screw driver to get it off. When I put the dust cover on the new motor I did not push it down tight. I turned the spindle of the new motor to make sure it turned. The put everything back. Turned it on and it worked. I put the ice marker on last. Take a note of how far the fan blades are on the spindle. The refrigerator now turns off more often.

I removed the ice maker, and removed the upper plastic covers, that just snap in and out of their locations, you can then see the evaporator fan blades. then I removed 2 hex screws, located in the top corners, holding a metal cover in place,lifting up from the bottom of the cover and slowly pulling it out of the freezer compartment. I can now see the screws holding the evaporator fan motor in place. Unplug the connector wiring to the motor and unclip the ground wire from the frame, It is easier to replace the fan blade,lid bumpers, dust cap,grommets, and fan motor this way. while you have everything in easy access, I took time to clean everything and replaced the foam strips, assure tight fit causing excellent air flow, when operating. the cause of the whining and knocking noise, was worn out grommets and bearing going bad in the motor. I reassembled everything in reverse order, being very careful not to get cut or burnt on the fins and tubing in the back of the freezer. Do not drop any thing down the drains while removing and /or reassembling, those items will cause lots of havoc to the lower fan and motor for the refrigerator, lay a towel in the bottom when you start working on it.. I then plugged it back up and there was on noise, works great.

followed part select video instructions

pull out the slide pan lh and replace for the part

Removed plastic housing and metal back panel,then removed fan motor and reinstalled everything. In all it took about 20 minutes

When the condensor fan motor started making those "Dying Mouse" noises I knew it was time to replace it. So I removed the fan motor and re-oiled it's lubricating packing, reinstalled it and promptly ordered a repacement moter online from PartSelect. I've ordered parts from them in the past with great results and rapid shipping. So now the "Dying Mouse" has been evicted and my wife is happy. And everyone should know, ( If Momma ain't happy, Then nobody's happy.) Thanks again PartSelect for your fast, reliable parts source with very reasonable prices.

per your instructions