CFE28USHBSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
Jump to:
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- Jules from Crowley, LA
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
failed light switch
I started removing the switch by prying on the right side with a screwdriver, when it emerged enough I used pliers to finish removing it. I then unpluged rhe wires from the bad switch and pluged them on the new switch and "poped" it into the hole.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Jeffrey from Saint Charles, IL
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
refrige ws too cold
as per video
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- christopher from collegeville, PA
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
no light in freezer
Connected the 2 wires and pushed in the switch until it clicked.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Mary from Farmingdale, NY
- Parts Used:
- WR55X24064
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Both the fridge aqnd freezer would not get cold.
Easy. Followed the video instrucations. the part was right there next to the compressor.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Cynthia from Seatac, WA
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
switch wouldn't come out anymore and turn light on
Gently pry out switch in door jam with screwdriver and pull both connectors off and put connectors on new switch then push switch back into the hole. Looked it up on the internet and video showed how to and also had link to new part, ordered and less than a week later the fridge is bright again. I have an older freezer also and it seems that they all use the same switches. Very Very easy
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Barbara from Mansfield, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR01X10450
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Lost Set Screw
Took set screw and allen wrench and screwed set screw into place.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Wayne from Rancho Cordova, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Refrigerator freezing.
Temp. Sensor was under an egg shaped cover on the left side wall in the refrigerator. Remove the cover, cut the two wires to the old sensor and remove it. Connect the new sensor to the two wires using butt connectors. Replace cover and done.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Richard from Nesquehoning, PA
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Fridge wouldn't keep temp
My son replaced both temperature sensors and the fridge works great now!!! Like brand new again!!!!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- William from Pasco, WA
- Parts Used:
- WR07X10131
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
compressor motor wouldn't start, so no refrigeration
My brother-in-law is a 15 year refrigeration technician who I called and described the problem to. He told me to put an "amp clamp" on the line side of the wires (black) that go to the starting controls on the side of the compressor. The motor has a label that has a number on it (LRA) that he used to determine the max amps it would pull. In this case, if the motor pulled 10 amps, then the motor was bad and I'd have to buy a new refrigerator. It was pulling less then 9 amps so he thought to buy a new overload, since the capacitor checked out (measured by multi-meter). As soon as the part came, I removed the back panel (4 screws removed by nut driver), removed the clip that holds the overload/capacitor assembly, detached the two wires from it, and removed the capacitor from the overload. I swapped in the new overload and repeated the above process in reverse. The only difficulty was that the new part was different in that the plug-in locations for the two wires were in different locations, and not marked. I had to disassemble the old part to figure out how it worked so I could deduce how the new one plugged in. Once that was solved, it was a quick fix. This was not a repair that just anyone could do; it required someone with a lot of experience to help me, and I am an engineer.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!