TBXW18ZPBRWH General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Replacing the new part wasn't hard, just very time consuming and frustrating. I had to remove two-thirds of the shelving of refrigerator as broken drawer slide was on the bottom and I had to have room to remove old and replace new. Of course, then I had to CLEAN all the drawers and shelving before replacing them and then, because they were fresh and clean, I had to remove the other third of shelving and wash and replace it. So, it was an hour-long or more time. I love your business, and had no idea I could get so many parts for old applicance and replace them myself, and I am a 70-year-old woman! This was the 2nd time to use your site and I will return to it again when needed. Thanks for prompt and reliable service and a site that makes it easy for a neophyte like me to find the broken part ! Keep up the good work.

I watched the video online, followed the instructions and within minutes had the part installed. The frig light was working once again! I will say the original switch was very snug and I had to do some very minor scraping of the plastic to get the new part to slide in.

The part just snapped into the shelf bar. Extremely easy to fix. Since you show the part in a grid I was able to tell, by holding my old piece up to the screen, that the new part would be the correct size. We have rentals and are always needing parts for appliances. Impossible to find locally.
Also the part came so quickly it was almost as good as buying it here in town. Thanks. Donna Bingham

Turned off the breaker to the fridge because I couldn't reach the power plug to unplug it . Use small flat head screwdriver to pop out the piece, disconnected the rubber prong connectors, inserted the new piece into the rubber prongs snapped it back into place. Flipped the breaker back on and prayed it worked. It did and I saved myself $120 service call.

we ordered new bar, cut to fit with instructions, and voila! easy!

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

Extremely easy repair, the hardest part was getting the old switch out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs in and it came right out.

This was so easy I think it took me 2 minutes. I am not very mechanically inclined but that didn't matter! Works perfect thank you!

I unplugged the refrigerator. Pressed the tab near the light bulb. Unplugged the socket and reconnected it.

Repair was super simple. Everything was a direct fit. Hardest part was unloading freezer to access evap motor. My freezer was old making my wire shields very brittle so I cut the shielding and used heat shrink tubing for a neat clean repair.

Removed drawers and glass shelf. Removed screws that hold old slide rails in place. Installed new rails and re-installed cover for vents. Placed assembly back in and installed drawers.

Took out shelf & brackets. Removed plastic shelf. Unscrewed broken bracket & screwed in new bracket.
Put back in & replaced the shelf.

1- youtubed the potential diagnoses, 2- resourced and ordered parts, 3- removed old socket, installed new one :-)... My fridge is an older fridge and could've used a screwdriver for eyeglasses. Plug and play easy... YAY!

I slipped the coupling over the bar and then into a door slot. It was very easy.

Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.