GTS18CBEMRWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.

Easy

Pulled the two wires out from the access hole in the lower part of the refrigerator. Put them in the spade connectors on the new switch, and pushed the switch into place.

My wife and I followed the installation video & put the gasket in hot water. We struggled to get it started in the second corner on top. Gasket had cooled down so wasn't wanting to go in the slot. I finally got the bright idea to use a hair dryer to warm the gasket as we pushed it along.
That helped us finish the installation.
Not sure the new gasket is the complete answer to the leakage at the top of the door (forming ice crystals). The MAGNETS ARE WEAK compared to my 1 year old GE top freezer refrigerator!
My newer refrigerator "snaps" shut.

Just as your video described, although due to the age of the fridge, it took a bit longer to remove the defective switch. Your video made this so simple, I can't imagine why we lived with a dark fridge for so long! I was ready to buy a whole new fridge, as repairmen are often nonexistent for small repairs. I am the biggest fan of your company & it's repair video. THANK YOU SO MUCH

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

Checked the defroster coil which is located behind the rear panel in the freezer compartment, it was still working. Followed the schematics down to the defrost timer, which is located in the lower front of the refrigerator and tried that. Plugged in the new part and the problem is solved.

removed the old gaskets with the putty knife to pry it loose then pulled the old gaskets off. Soaked the new gaskets in slightly boiling water to make them better able to straighten out and then installed by lining them up and pressing them in place, making sure they were lined up and that they were in the track provided for them.

per your instructions

repalaced the old one with the new one. easy

I replaced the thermostat, temperature sensor, and the run capacitor. . . Refrigerator still not cooling. I checked the start relay and measured the input terminals on the compressor for the correct resistance. . . Everything measured correctly. In a last ditch effort before calling for service, I pulled the main board, inspected it and saw the problem right away. One leg on the compression capacitor had desoldered itself. Got out my soldering iron and applied a good amount of solder to that point. Put everything back together and turn it on. . . Problem fixed. The compressor kicked on right away and started cooling the refrigerator.

Removing the old gaskets was very simple. Replacing the fresh door gasket was the most time consuming. It would have been easier if I had help, it took a some time and patience. The gasket works perfectly. The freezer gasket was easy to replace. The gaskets fit perfectly, thank you. For the ladies out there, you if I can do it, so can you.

Condenser fan motor was running slow. This was not a problem included in your list of possible problems. I thought that maybe the capacitor was bad but have no way to check it. So I ordered one. when I received it, I installed it. That was not the problem. So I ordered a fan motor and installed it. That was not the problem. So finally I ordered a control board and installed it. That solved the problem. So maybe you should put "cond.fan motor runs slow" in your list of possible faults and what causes that problem. Capacitor was easy to install, simply remove the cover plate, flip off retaining wire, unplug the capacitor and replace. Fan motor was a bit more difficult. It must be removed from mount after fan scroll is removed. Remove one screw that holds scroll, bend the top down and remove. Then pull hard on fan blade to remove it. It must be installed on new motor. Two screws in frame mount can be removed with some effort if you have a 1/4" drive ratchet with a Phillips screwdriver bit. Then pull frame open and install new motor. Push fan blade on new motor shaft hard. Replacing control board was easy. I used a pair of long nose pliers with 90 degree bend to get mounting pins closed to pull board off.

I replaced the Vegetable Pan Cover myself and it looks and fits great. The hardest job was unloading so that the previous cover could be taken out. I was proud of myself for being able to do this job myself without any help. Ordering and receiving the part was so easy that I will always use Parts Select. Thanks again. Juaneese