GSE25ESHDSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I am 85 years old and had no trouble replacing the Augar. Removed ice maker from frig. Remover the ice shield (one screw, remove front panel (2 screws) carefully removed augar assy.

Removed the lock washer,the the end plastic nut, being careful in removing the ice crusher blades. Replaced the augar and all parts. Checked out the ice dispenser and the crusher, both worked fine

Ice maker assembly removed from refrigerator and disassembled. Note nylon nut holding the Augur in place is removed clockwise. As you take the assembly apart, note each piece for reassembly.

First turn off the power, remove the ice tray, remove the two screws holding the ice maker to the side of the freezer, use the screw driver to gently open the electrical clip for the power cord inside the freezer, remove the complete unit from freezer, bend the old stripper from the holding pin- it is flexible- it will bend, replace the new stripper on the holding pin and bend into the slot to hold it firmly, no water will come out from the fill cup into the freezer, plug in the power cord, mount back to side of freezer, you are done.

Part arrived in 2 days and took about 15 seconds to install. Great!! No more broken eggs!!

removed 3 screws unplug and remove old unit. install two screws install new ice maker, tighten screws plug in and turn on. had ice in 20 min.

I downloaded a schematic of the ice dispensing unit. The whole unit pulls out and there are a couple of screws that remove plastic covers. The "trick" was to get the two plastic tabs pushed in and lift the auger unit out of the tray - a two person job! We used knife blades (it was the thinist and strongest tool around) to push the tabs in and pry the auger assembly out. I think we did a great job NOT breaking the plastic pieces! As careful as I was, I definately needed the schematic to put the ice crushing blades and spacers back together. All of this could be avoided if they used a metal auger instead of plastic!

I replaced the three sensors, 2 in the freezer 1 in the refrigerator. This was rated as the most common problem. Did not fix the problem. I then checked the ohms on the new sensors then the old sensors they were all within .5 of each other. So I got smart and went down the list of causes on their list. I emailed partselect and asked what the parts should read. They replied with that information and it turned out to be the voltage converter on the compressor. I ordered the part on friday payed for overnight delivery and it arrived tuesday. This as you can imagine makes me angry. But the part was easy to install and my refrigerator started working right away. I would advise anyone with this problem to start at the top of the problem list use a multi meter check everything on the list and only replace part or parts that don't come up to standards. This will save time and money and hopefully fix the problem the first time as you are not switching out parts and hoping that it solves the problem.

Removed the ice tray and then the auger unit from the tray assembly. To accomplish auger removal, the auger assembly is attached to the tray assemble at the front. On the front bottom there two screws. Back them out. Then on the top of the tray assembly the auger assembly is held in position by two tabs. Depress them with a finger or thumb. Do not use a screw driver as this may result in breaking the plastic tab! The auger assembly will separate. The crusher plate easily separates from the auger assembly and is removed buy "spiraling" the plate up and off the auger itself. Simply reverse to install new plate.
Recommendation: Take this opportunity to thoroughly clean and COMPLETELY DRY all components prior to re-assemble and re-install into the refrigerator.

A second person is necessary to help prop up the refrigerator. One person will need to insert a 6 inch support under the front of the refrigerator base while another person rocks the refrigerator back to provide access for the support to be inserted.

The front refrigerator panel was removed to reveal the refrigerator base and provide access to the front wheel assembly adjustment screw (screw mobility). The front of the refrigerator was propped up on a solid support about 6 inches above the floor to provide access to the front wheel assembly and allow removal through the base of the refrigerator. The front wheel assembly was dislodged from the base by first removing the pivot pin by hand and then prying the wheel assembly loose with a screwdriver. Normally the pivot pin would need to be released by prying it loose with a screwdriver and then pulling to free by hand. Once the front wheel assembly was dislodged the adjustment screw was removed with a socket set and the front wheel assembly fell out of the refrigerator base. The new front wheel assembly was then inserted into the refrigerator base, the new pivot pin was inserted and aligned with the support holes and pressed into place to secure with locking mechanism. The new adjustment screw was then inserted into the refrigerator base hole, aligned with the front wheel assembly and hand tightened to set the first threads. The adjustment screw was then tightened with a socket set to seat the adjustment screw. The refrigerator was then lowered and the adjustment screw was adjusted to level the refrigerator. The refrigerator was then pushed back into its normal position and a final adjustment performed to assure the refrigerator was level. The front refrigerator panel was then pressed back into place.

I took the ice bucket out and looked at it carefully. The auger was breaking apart little by little. I went on-line to find what part I needed. I came to Part Select and they had a diagram telling exactly what part would solve my problem. I ordered it online and it arrived, nicely packed about four days later. I took out the old ice bucket with the broken auger and replaced it with the new one (which I washed out before installing). It was so easy and I didn't have to pay a repairman to do it. The price was reasonable, too. I have this site bookmarked in case anything else needs to be replaced. It's amazing what you can do yourself!

Local repairman was called. He replaced the condenser fan motor as it had an intermittent noise several days before. Cost of the repair was 252.00. Two days later freezer was thawing again. He then came back again and said it was probably the evaporator fan and would replace it for 339. dollars or the mother board which he would replace for 500 dollars. He recommended replacing the unit. Since my unit was still in pristine looking condition I decided to do some further research. That is when I found your web site. After reviewing the possible causes on your site I ordered the defrost themostat and and all three thermistors.As a precaution I also ordered the evaporator fan and defrost heater and bracket Assembly. When the parts arrived I disconnected the power to the unit. Removed the shelves and lower pan. Removed the light shield and light bulb. Reovede the two screws holding the evaporator coil cover. This allowed access to the evaporator themostat. I then cut the wires from the old themostat and removed it from the coil. I then stripped the wires on the colored wires and also cut the wires on the new themostat and stripped those. Then using wire nuts I aatached the wires making sure they were properly color coded. Wrapped with electrical tape and attached the new thermostat to the evaporator coil. I then located the evaporator temperature sensor and removed it from the coil and removed the clip and placed it aside for use on the new sensor. I cut the wires and discarded old sensor. Stripped wires on the new sensor after determining the proper length and stripped the wires where the old one was removed and the using in line connectors I first crimped the wires on the new connector and the crimped both wires to the wires previously cut and stripped. Reinstalled the connector to the clip and clipped it back onto the evaporator coil. I then disconnected the wires attached to the defrost heater bracket assembly, located the two screws holding it to unit and removed it from the unit. I did a continuity check on it and it checked ok but was black so I replaced it as a precaution since I already had a new one. Hung the new unit onto the mounting bracket reinstalled the two mounting screws and reattached the two wires. Reinstalled the evaporator cover making sure to reattach the ground wire clip. Reinstalled screws and light cover and all shelves and pan. Reconneceted electrical power. Unit operated fine for a couple of days and then thawed again. I then retraced the steps removing what I had to remove to replace the evaporator fan motor and replaced it per the installation instructions on your site. The unit has now been operating for five days maintaining -8 degrees in the freezer and 37degrees in the refrigerator. I probably could have done a little more trouble shooting at the main board but didn't want to risk damaging that since I already had the parts I thought would fix the problem if it wasn't the main board. I only replaced the one temperature sensor so I will probably return the two I did not use. Thanks for your excellent "how to"videos.

Bing , Bang, Boom.

Watched video, however could not get outer casing off. Under the panel are three small holes, pushed up with an Allen key, used a small screwdriver to wedge out, came out easily, followed instructions from video on removing and replacing solenoid

On this fridge, you MUST take out the ice maker. First took out the shelves. Then take out the ice maker. This is done by taking out the four screws on the side that hold the assembly containing the bulb. Then there is one screw that holds that assembly to the icemaker. Do not take out any other screws, this is a mistake I made that cost me a few more hours figuring out how to get the other parts to mount correctly to the assembly containing the bulb. The icemaker should lift right out once the white plus is unplugged from the assembly that holds the light. Then took out the shelf brackets and finally could remove rear panel. Found it all iced up as others have. Took 1.5 hours to manually defrost while using sponges to sop up all the water that would run into the drain if you let it. Was about a gallon of water so using sponges worked well. Heater was open when checked with a meter, but you could tell it was blown by the way it looked. All cloudy. Put things back in reverse order. Had an issue with the icemaker shooting water out and missing the icemaker. Eventually was able to align better. This fridge had also just stopped dispensing water. I think the lines may have been frozen in the back, because one day after defrosting manually, the water dispenser started working again Overall this took about 4 hours. But a few days later, the water dispenser again stopped working. Not sure about that one. I have a valve already that I will try for this issue but somehow I don't think its the valve.

Excellent video on youtube showing how to replace the auger-Refrigerator and IceMaker Repair - Replacing the Auger Assembly (GE Part# WR17X11705).Very detailed video showing every aspect of this repair. There are many other videos showing this exact repair!!