GSE25ETHBWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I took the advice off of your website about the only thing that will fix
the problem is change the run capacitor. I felt assured that I would
have a working refrigerator freezer after making this change. I was
pretty disheartened when it didn`t solve anything. I was not going to
take the new part back out after the small challenge of putting it in.
The next day I found out how to test the old capacitor and it was still
good. I will just have to eat the $49. I did learn not to take advice from
a website even if it seems like a sure thing

First, I turned off the water supply line to the refrigerator from the house at the wall and unplugged the power cord. Secondly, I removed the small screws that hold the piece of cardboard over the opening in the lower left corner (rear of the refrigerator) by the compressor. Thirdlyl, I removed the other end of the water line where it attaches to the water valve with an adjustable end wrench. Then I removed the small screw that holds the double water outlet valves to the refrigerator frame. I then removed the water valve by pulling it out of the rear of the refrigerator, unplugged the electrical connections, and cut the water lines where they enter the valves. I then plugged the electrical connectors into the new valves and pushed the hoses into their respective openings. These are one-way connectors - once you push them in (firmly) they will not leak or come back out. All I did then was replace the valve and secure it with the one little screw and then replace the cardboard piece onto the rear of the refrigerator. Don't forget to turn the water supply back on. That's it!!

Removed the plastic frame by pushing to the inside (all 4 sides), removed touch pad by sliding it to my right and disconnected the wires. Removed the four screws that hold the dispensing unit and replaced broken parts. Please note that I also replaced the funnel. Total cost of repair for DIY $30.00, savings by avoiding repair man, priceless.

pulled out refer. found leak at corner lower back, pulled off lower cover. found valve for icemaker leaking. looked in owners/inst guide, pulled up on computer, identified part, called, order overnight part. recieved part & installed, repair complete & successful.

Shut off water supply. Unplugged refrigerator. Removed cover. (6 screws -- nutdriver will come in handy). Removed screw securing water valve to frame (again the nutdriver). Unplugged red and white power connectors to solenoids. Using channel locks, loosened nut holding main water supply to valve and removed. Depressed compression fittings to valve and pulled out plastic water lines that supply water dispenser and ice maker. Reconnected main water supply to new part. Pushed both water lines into respective fittings of new part. Reconnected power supply to solenoids. Attached new part to frame with screw. Replaced back cover. Turned water supply back on. Plugged refrig. back in. Problem solved! Savings = $300!

the only thing I had to do was slide the shelf in.. but this website saved me over $50 on the part (I got a price from my local appliance store of $80.00 and 2 weeks to get it)

Your instructions were "spot on"! Pried out broken switch with screwdriver-reinstalled new switch. Very easy! Ordered on line on a Wednesday new part arrived on following Saturday-Great service and will definately use again. Highly recommend PartSelect!

Before replacing the top filter housing, ensure the inlet water valve is operational. Replacing is a straight forward process. Unhook the houses from the inlet water valve in the back of the refrigerator. Remove and replace the top filter housing and ensure you replace the sealant using plumbers putty or sealant dicor butyl putty.

We soaked the new gasket in warm water for a while and we pressed it into place. Really very easy. Working fine again.
Thank you!

Remove rear plate. Remove fan bracket. Replace fan gaskets, blade and motor. Replace bracket. Replace rear plate. Very simple. Fixed the problem.

I pulled-out & unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the screws to gain access through the lower back panel. The water valve is on the left side as I face the back of the fridge. It has one screw holding it to the frame of the fridge. Once it is free, the main water hose is unscrewed and the two out-let lines were pulled-out. If your valve was not ruined prior to this, it is ruined now, as the lines will not re-seat. Then everything is done in reverse order. I did cut 1/2 inch off of the two lines so that they reseat into the new valve. Just push into the valve and they are good.

I tried to quite the noisey evap motor with special liquid motor grease from Radio Shack. It did not work, so I ordered the evap motor. My freezer motor was wired slightly different than the motor I received. The replacement motor had a male plug attached to the four wires, the original motor was different, so I cut the wires and spliced them into the original freezer wires (colors were the same). Remounted motor. Works great, and no more groaning motor
Peter

replaced with new connector and it worked great. also replaced the water filter and that was super easy!

You must have a nutdriver to replace this part. No wrench or pliers will fit in the space to loosen any of the nuts.

You cannot simply replace the bracket, because it's connected to the ice-maker assembly and it's a very snug fit. Therefore, you must remove the bracket on the opposite wall to give you room to angle the assembly and slip on the new bracket.

Be careful when you're screwing the nuts back in, especially the two in the back of the freezer. It's a difficult angle to keep a grip, and it's easy to drop the screws into the freezer (and then you have to fish them out of the bags of frozen peas)

1 - Remove the nuts from the broken bracket.

2 - Remove the nuts from the bracket on the opposite wall.

Now you have room to maneuver.

3 - Angle the ice-maker assembly and slip off the old bracket, and then slip on the new bracket.

4 - Align the brackets over the holes and screw in each nut.

The most difficult part was screwing in the two back screws when replacing the brackets onto the freezer walls. It's a pretty simple job that requires no muscle.

1. Removed the back panel of the fridge to get access to the inlet water valve.
2. Removed black poly water line from valve (pull back on white ring where line is attached and pull the line out)
3. Removed the inlet tube from top-back of fridge (where it goes into the ice make). use putty knife to get under the sticky white gasket beneath the black oval housing and pull the tube out form the back of the fridge.
4. Replace the water line with new part taking care to properly seat the line into the the bottom water valve and pushing the water tube into the hole for the ice maker.

Note: Be sure to take off the protective covering from the white - sticky grommet and push to adhere to metal on fridge.

to be safe - use a bit of clear silicone chaulking round the perimeter of the grommet and push to tighly bond the water inlet tube to the fridge.

The reason for this - is that if you do not get a good bond using the white - sticky gormmet alone - you may have the water tube inside the ice maker freeze up.

Also once the new water line is installed be sure to secure the line to the metal back of the fridge - so the line will not move. some fridges come with metal hose clamps to do this - otherwise use duct tape