CYE22USHCSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Took out the old parts and replaced it with the new parts. The new OVERLOAD PTCR COMBO was different then the one that we replaced so we called customer service and they told us which wire to insert into each of the 2 slots and it is working like new again. Outstanding and knowledgeable customer service.

REMOVE LOWER DRAWERS, SHELF AND BACK EVAPORATOR COVER AND REPLACE SIEZED EVAPORATOR BLOWER MOTOR.

EXCHANGED THE LED LAMP ASSEMBLY. ONLY DO ONE AT A TIME AS THEY ARE WIRED IN SERIES!

I replaced the three sensors, 2 in the freezer 1 in the refrigerator. This was rated as the most common problem. Did not fix the problem. I then checked the ohms on the new sensors then the old sensors they were all within .5 of each other. So I got smart and went down the list of causes on their list. I emailed partselect and asked what the parts should read. They replied with that information and it turned out to be the voltage converter on the compressor. I ordered the part on friday payed for overnight delivery and it arrived tuesday. This as you can imagine makes me angry. But the part was easy to install and my refrigerator started working right away. I would advise anyone with this problem to start at the top of the problem list use a multi meter check everything on the list and only replace part or parts that don't come up to standards. This will save time and money and hopefully fix the problem the first time as you are not switching out parts and hoping that it solves the problem.

as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.

10 minutes total.

I opened the back panel of the fridge and exposed the compressor. Unplugged existing run capacitor and installed new one with the addition of the sleeve that is stated must be installed around the run capacitor.
Everything I read and on this web site says that based on these symptoms, that the problem is the run capacitor. I searched and search for a part called a start relay which plugs in to the compressor. This run capacitor plugs in to this other part which I take as the start relay.

Installing this run capacitor did not solve the problem. The fridge compressor keeps cycling on and off. Freezer doesn't keep as cold as it should.

Repair man thought it was the control board and an issue with a relay on the board. Purchased the new board but found out the board was fine, and it was the recirculating fan that would go out intermediately.

Tried ordering that part from Part Select since they have been great, but GE discontinued the part and their was not a replacement available. After much research, found the new replacement part number and ordered that, it went in quickly and for now seems to have solved the problem.

Removed the bad inlet valve and installed the replacement. Very easily done. The replacement part made the repair so simple and saved me a huge amount over calling a repair man. It did not take any special knowledge.

Watch this very good refrigerator evaporator fan replacement video

Literally turned off the water to the refrigerator, disconnected the lines from the back and took one screw loose from the inside of the unit. Slid out old filter connection and slid in the new one and did reverse process.

I took the advice off of your website about the only thing that will fix
the problem is change the run capacitor. I felt assured that I would
have a working refrigerator freezer after making this change. I was
pretty disheartened when it didn`t solve anything. I was not going to
take the new part back out after the small challenge of putting it in.
The next day I found out how to test the old capacitor and it was still
good. I will just have to eat the $49. I did learn not to take advice from
a website even if it seems like a sure thing

Remove old filter by pulling and not twisting and insert new filter by pushing in place.

Received the wrong spring. It is larger in diameter and the legs are too long. I used pliers to modify the spring for a temporary fix. Emailed CS about the wrong part and have never received any response back?

This was the first time I took out the old filter on my new refrigerator and added the new one. It was a little hard getting the old one out because I was afraid to pull on it but it did come out ok and was easy to put the new one in.

Unplug refrigerator or turn off circuit breaker.

Insert knife blade or other thin blade into joint at bottom of screen bezel (where there is a color change) and pry up slightly until top of bezel pops out. Probably need to do this in several places until the entire top edge is out slightly. Pull the top of bezel out slightly and lift up to remove.

Remove 4 1/4" hex head screws to loosen control panel. Pull control panel out from door and remove three wiring connectors. You can now completely remove panel from refrigerator door.

Use T15 Torx driver to remove 5 screws on main circuit board and 2 on the small attached board. Remove and save plastic insulator piece.

Install new boards and insulator piece using the Torx screws. Reconnect the three wiring connectors and remount the control panel using the hex head screws.

Reinstall the screen bezel by sliding the bottom in first. Align the tabs on the bezel with the mating slots in the lower panel. When bezel is all the way down push in the top edge to engage the retainer clips.

Plug in refrigerator or turn on circuit breaker. Control should now go through the startup sequence.