CYE22TSHOSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed drawers, lifted out old frame assembly ( no tools ) removed and cleaned old glass from assembly.
Carefully screwed old rollers ( x4 )into new frame, then placed old glass in new frame, repositioned frame into refrigerator and then repositioned drawers in frame.
20 minutes , no issues

It just snapped in. Fit perfectly. Excellent service.

Popped it up and popped new one on

Totally followed the instructions of the video that came with the sensor. Unplugged the the fridge, defrosted the freezer. Cut off the main sensor that usually is the one that goes out. Installed the the new sensor with new wire terminals, crimped them and covered with electrical tape. Fridge works like a charm. Partsselect is excellent. Saved me a few hundred dollars versus having a GE Tech come and do it.

On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.

Snap filter into place while holding the filter slightly away from the refrig. When filter snaps into place, push it towards refrig into place.

no brainer,watched the video,worst thing was to thaw the freezer,it was realy frosted,works like new,very happy thank you.

My brother-in-law is a 15 year refrigeration technician who I called and described the problem to. He told me to put an "amp clamp" on the line side of the wires (black) that go to the starting controls on the side of the compressor. The motor has a label that has a number on it (LRA) that he used to determine the max amps it would pull. In this case, if the motor pulled 10 amps, then the motor was bad and I'd have to buy a new refrigerator. It was pulling less then 9 amps so he thought to buy a new overload, since the capacitor checked out (measured by multi-meter). As soon as the part came, I removed the back panel (4 screws removed by nut driver), removed the clip that holds the overload/capacitor assembly, detached the two wires from it, and removed the capacitor from the overload. I swapped in the new overload and repeated the above process in reverse. The only difficulty was that the new part was different in that the plug-in locations for the two wires were in different locations, and not marked. I had to disassemble the old part to figure out how it worked so I could deduce how the new one plugged in. Once that was solved, it was a quick fix. This was not a repair that just anyone could do; it required someone with a lot of experience to help me, and I am an engineer.

Located temperature sensor on condenser in the freezer section( as per instructional video ). Cut off bad sensor with wire cutter then soldered on the new sensor and sealed with electrical shrink wrap.

as per video- follow all of the videos and u r going to save a lot of money tx partselect im glad I found u guys ps only order from partselect.com they only ship the correct parts remember look at the video select the symptom and buy as per video tx again problemsolved

changed sensors did not repair problem,replaced damper with mechanical damper fixed problem.

Replaced all the sensors in both the feezer and refrigerator.Even though it colder now it still is not cold enough.Freezer won't freeze items but is cold and refrigerator still not real cold

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.

Condenser fan motor was running slow. This was not a problem included in your list of possible problems. I thought that maybe the capacitor was bad but have no way to check it. So I ordered one. when I received it, I installed it. That was not the problem. So I ordered a fan motor and installed it. That was not the problem. So finally I ordered a control board and installed it. That solved the problem. So maybe you should put "cond.fan motor runs slow" in your list of possible faults and what causes that problem. Capacitor was easy to install, simply remove the cover plate, flip off retaining wire, unplug the capacitor and replace. Fan motor was a bit more difficult. It must be removed from mount after fan scroll is removed. Remove one screw that holds scroll, bend the top down and remove. Then pull hard on fan blade to remove it. It must be installed on new motor. Two screws in frame mount can be removed with some effort if you have a 1/4" drive ratchet with a Phillips screwdriver bit. Then pull frame open and install new motor. Push fan blade on new motor shaft hard. Replacing control board was easy. I used a pair of long nose pliers with 90 degree bend to get mounting pins closed to pull board off.

Unplugged unit and removed vented cover over compressor section. The run capacitor is a simple fix 1 Phillips head screw and 2 spade wire connectors. For the temperature sensor I had to remove all drawers and the ice maker to remove the back cover to expose the condenser. Put a bowl at the drain stem in the rear of the unit and used a heat gun to defrost the coils on the condenser. Cut the wire about 3" from the sensor end . cut about the same off the new sensor stripped the wires put shrink wrap on each wire, attached butt connecors . heat gun for the shrink wrap and reassembled everything. Simple job that took about a half hour to do both. I will monitor the fridge for a couple of weeks to see if I need to change the control board.