CYE22UELBDS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

After looking up what might be the problem, I ordered a new control
board. It was extremely easy to replace. Unfortunately it was not operational. I had to replace my refrigerator. The return process was very easy and my refund was processed quickly.

You have to remove the shelves and drawer's along with the drawer mount. there is a wiring harness you need to unclip to remove the crisper electrical panel

There are six nuts to remove the lower panel at the back of the compartment where the lower drawer normally is. no need to completely remove the panel, you only need to get wiggle room to remove the fan at the base of the center panel.

There is a small triangular cover used to conceal the fan wiring harness on the right side of the center panel that you can use the putty knife to slip in on the center panel side to unclip and remove

Use the putty knife and slide it down both sides of the center panel that runs vertically to unclip it - at the base of this panel is where you'll find the condenser fan, you should be able to wiggle it out - there is a built in clip on the lower right side of the center panel that you can slip the wiring harness out of - for me this was the hardest part of the replacement as it was just awkward.

After it's removed slip in the new fan and seal and reassemble. I think the whole operation took maybe a half hour - 40 minutes. It's pretty easy all said and done.

Remove the screws from the two door pivot covers. Remove the covers and set aside. Remove the screws from the control board; disconnect the electrical connections; remove the door light switch, install door light switch then reinstall everything.

Slipped into place easily.

I ordered the correct part, the box said it was the correct part and when I opened the box a completely different part was inside. Not only was it the wrong part but it was loosely wrapped with very thin plastic and the hinge was broken off of the lid and laying in the box. I have called and emailed for help and was told no one was available to help because of COVID 19. One email was answered to return the part I would have to pay shipping and the part could not be damaged. Okay, the part was wrong, the part was broken. Now what should I do? Please respond.

Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.

Turn off the electrical breaker for the refrigerator. On my unit the ice-maker was inside the left door. On the inside of that door is a plastic door where the ice bin is located. Open both doors and remove the ice bin. Behind the ice bin is the ice-maker. Beneath the ice-maker is a screw holding a plastic cover. Remove the screw and unhook the electrical connections. Next remove the screw for the ice-maker. Remove the ice-maker. Replacement is the exact opposite of removal. Couldn't be easier. Always be careful when putting the screws back. They were two different lengths and head sizes. Turn backward at first to line up the threads. If you strip out the plastic, game over. Good luck

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.

1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.

Pulled out bottom crisper drawers. Removed drawer slides. Removed side plastic panels, then removed back panel which exposed the fan. Removed fan and replaced with new fan. Had to use the heat gun because there was ice buildup on left corner of rear panel. Reassembled in reverse order. There is several excellent videos on You Tube.

follow the easy instructions replace 3 temperature sensors cut the wires and crimp them with new sensor and it works like new

Pull the fridge out from the wall.
Close the water supply valve.
Unplug the appliance.
Using a nutdriver , remove the panel at the lower rear. Set aside.
Disconnect the water supply line from the solenoid valve.
Using the nutdriver, remove the defective water valve.
Disconnect the electrical connector noting orientation.
Remove the black safety device from the valve where the quick connect line goes to the dispenser. Depress the ring on the fitting and remove the gray dispenser line.
Discard the defective valve.
Insert the dispenser line into the quick connect fitting on the new valve. Ensure that the line goes all the way into the fitting.
Reconnect the electrical connector.
Install the valve and connect the supply line.
Reinstall the panel.
Open the supply line valve.
Plug in the refrigerator.
Test. There well be some gurgling as water refills the system.
If no leaks and water dispenses properly, push the fridge back against the wall.
Enjoy!

I followed the directions included with the water filter and it was simple. The only problem I had was not being strong enough to easily remove the old filter. I did accomplish that after a few tries and the rest is history.

Purchased parts per your diagram and went to a appliance store to see how it was assemble

It snapped in place.