DFE28JGHDBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I ordered two switches, replaced both with a knife in 10 minutes. Interior light works, thanks.

Pulled out bottom crisper drawers. Removed drawer slides. Removed side plastic panels, then removed back panel which exposed the fan. Removed fan and replaced with new fan. Had to use the heat gun because there was ice buildup on left corner of rear panel. Reassembled in reverse order. There is several excellent videos on You Tube.

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.

follow the easy instructions replace 3 temperature sensors cut the wires and crimp them with new sensor and it works like new

I found instructions on the web about how to do this repair, so I ordered the part with confidence. But the instructions simply said "pull out the old switchlight". That was actually somewhat difficult as the clip on the side intended to hold the part in was stubborn. I eventually used a utility to slice off the clip. From that point, it was just a matter of plugging in the new switchlight , which was very simple.

Purchased parts per your diagram and went to a appliance store to see how it was assemble

I followed the directions included with the water filter and it was simple. The only problem I had was not being strong enough to easily remove the old filter. I did accomplish that after a few tries and the rest is history.

I was able to repair both problems for a cost of about $6.00 thanks to parts select. Will definitely be back for more parts when I need them. Great selection and rapid shipping.

After searching through appliance Mfg Company for parts for A few days. Some how I ended up at this Great website for Quality but inexpensive and half the price. Could not afford to pass up A great deal... Easy install within 5mins and no more headaches or worries. Highly Recommend it to Everyone out there.....

It snapped in place.

Once I received that New Part, just place the 1 Piece from the old Shelf into the New Part and mounted the Shelf in the Door.

I determined one of the five LED lights in the refrigerator was dead by swapping it with a working one. The refrigerator lights are wired in series and if one of the lights is dead the remaining ones turn on, but very dim. I called PartSelect.com and thanks to their help we determined the correct part to order which is the oval-shaped cover LED assembly which includes the cover, LED, and female connector. The part from PartSelect arrived in three days. The oval-shape LED plastic Cover assembly is mounted on the refrigerator and held by a couple of side latches. First unplug the refrigerator and then proceed to lightly pry the oval-shaped cover side facing the rear of the refrigerator with your finger nail to remove it. With the LED cover removed you can then press on the LED connector tab to slide it off. Now slide the female connector of the replacement part to the refrigerator male connector and snap the oval-shape plastic cover onto the refrigerator receptacle and then plug it back to its outlet. Now all the lights in the refrigerator should light up brightly! That's all folks. Hope this helps. Good luck. Yours truly.

The overload protector was the problem. It plugs into the side of the compressor and the run capacitor plugs into it.

If you pull the overload protector and it rattles when you shake it, that's probably your diagnosis.

The replacement is different from the original and the wire connectors are different. Hold the thing in the same orientation as if it were plugged in. The vertical connector goes to the neutral wire, which on my fridge is orange. The horizontal connector is for the overload, which for mine is black and white. If you have a schematic you should verify the wires yourself.

Anyway, the refrigerator now works like new.

I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.