DSE25JMHBCES General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

On this fridge, you MUST take out the ice maker. First took out the shelves. Then take out the ice maker. This is done by taking out the four screws on the side that hold the assembly containing the bulb. Then there is one screw that holds that assembly to the icemaker. Do not take out any other screws, this is a mistake I made that cost me a few more hours figuring out how to get the other parts to mount correctly to the assembly containing the bulb. The icemaker should lift right out once the white plus is unplugged from the assembly that holds the light. Then took out the shelf brackets and finally could remove rear panel. Found it all iced up as others have. Took 1.5 hours to manually defrost while using sponges to sop up all the water that would run into the drain if you let it. Was about a gallon of water so using sponges worked well. Heater was open when checked with a meter, but you could tell it was blown by the way it looked. All cloudy. Put things back in reverse order. Had an issue with the icemaker shooting water out and missing the icemaker. Eventually was able to align better. This fridge had also just stopped dispensing water. I think the lines may have been frozen in the back, because one day after defrosting manually, the water dispenser started working again Overall this took about 4 hours. But a few days later, the water dispenser again stopped working. Not sure about that one. I have a valve already that I will try for this issue but somehow I don't think its the valve.

After googling the model number to my refrigerator I found Parts Select. They provided a clear picture of the parts and I used that to match up the part I needed. I bookmarked this site for future reference.

using a small socket wrench and star shaped driver I (1) removed the two screws that held the broken stop from the bottom of the door, and (2) replaced the new stop and screwed it back in. The most difficult part of the job was opening the door in order to access the second screw.

The ice maker has plastic parts in the front that snap together. Getting those parts apart and back together was the most difficult part of the process. The auger was easily replaced.

Unfortunately, the replacement part didn't come with instructions. The repair, nevertheless, was fairly straightforward. After removing the plastic parts that guide the ice through the door (by removing a few screws that attach the parts to the inside of the door), I was able to slip my hand into the ice maker dispenser and remove the old part. The part clips on. It is a tight fit through the funnel (from the outside of the freezer), however, and requires that the gasket first be "flipped" open wherein it unfolds 180 degrees. Doing this will make it easier to clip the new gasket onto the assembly.

It was more involved than I thought. I didn't have the proper tool for removing the snap washers but a screw driver and pliers did the trick with no damage. I think this is the first time I repaired something right the first time.

I first replaced in-line water filter to the fridge. No ice. Then I replaced the water filter inside the fridge. Still no ice. I inspected the water inlet feeding the ice cube trays and it was froze up with ice. I removed the two screws holding the ice maker in place to remove the ice from the inlet tray. I then used a hair dryer to melt the ice accumulated in the in-coming water tube. Turned off the water and unplugged the fridge. When replacing the old water valve, I first blew through the hose feeding the ice maker to be sure that it was clear of ice. After re-attaching the water hoses and the electrical connections, I turned on the water, plugged in the fridge and turned the ice maker switch back on. Next morning I had ice cubes. Only mystery is I am not hearing the usual water noise when water is feeding the cube tray like I did before, - not to worry though if it works. My drawer is now full of cubes.

Excellent video on youtube showing how to replace the auger-Refrigerator and IceMaker Repair - Replacing the Auger Assembly (GE Part# WR17X11705).Very detailed video showing every aspect of this repair. There are many other videos showing this exact repair!!

Ordered the new part (water valve). Took off the bad one followed directions on you video. The video explained the process making it easy to do.

Remove and replace. Unfortunately this is the third handle on this refrigerator. The end is plastic and it works itself loose. If there is the slightest amount of gap it will snap the plastic. Need to tie an allen wrench to the handle and tighten it after every use apparently.

The slideout shelf "assembly" comes without the
keeper tab, and as such is incomplete. You have to order it separately or rob it from the old one. If the old one is broken or you break it trying to get it out of the old one you're out of luck unless you ordered
the tab also. Other than that it's a no-brainer.

First, I removed the top drawer blocking the area where I needed to put the glass panel cover. Then, I removed the drawer along with the glass panel holder to which I needed to install the glass. I installed the glass to the panel holder without difficulties (although the glass cover was expensive :() and reinstall the drawers back to their proper place. This repair was actually a no-brainer.

Suggest removing black plastic grill first to gain better access to door stop screws. The grill is attached by two phillips screws, one on either end and several metal spring clips in the middle. The door stop is held by two star shaped screws that are only visible with a mirror. Suggest using a bit attached to a small ratchet.

I received part. I then used a hair dryer to smooth out kinks. Took about 15 minutes. Pulled off old gasket and replaced with new one. Used hands only.

I followed the directions provided by Robert of Florida. My contribution is, be aware that the plastic nut on the auger shaft turns to the right to loosen.