DFE28JGHBBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Wayne from Rancho Cordova, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Refrigerator freezing.
Temp. Sensor was under an egg shaped cover on the left side wall in the refrigerator. Remove the cover, cut the two wires to the old sensor and remove it. Connect the new sensor to the two wires using butt connectors. Replace cover and done.
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- Customer:
- Richard from Nesquehoning, PA
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Fridge wouldn't keep temp
My son replaced both temperature sensors and the fridge works great now!!! Like brand new again!!!!
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- Customer:
- Marco from Fallbrook, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
My fridge was colder than my freezer
I can't tell you how luck I feel after finding your website I ordered the temperature sensor after watching one of your videos on-line and the repair went just as on the video. I pulled the "bad" sensor out, and replaced it with the new one. Keep in mind that this is the first time I ever touch an appliance, needless to say I'm feeling pretty good about that! All in all it took me about 20 minutes to complete my repair and it now has been about 4 days and the refrigerator is working like new again!
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- Customer:
- chol from Glenview, IL
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
refriger warm
replace sensor in refriger.
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- Customer:
- Greg from Rockwood, TN
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Would not self defrost.
Remove the shelves then remove the back by removing the two screws at the top of the panel. Locate the temperature sensor on top of the coil. Cut the wires and replace with the new one. Use wire nuts and electrical tape to reconnect the wires.
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- Customer:
- larry from lisbon, ME
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
extreme frost build up inside in back of freezer,also veggies were freezing in the fridge draw
no brainer,watched the video,worst thing was to thaw the freezer,it was realy frosted,works like new,very happy thank you.
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- Customer:
- Troy from Dacula, GA
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Socket set
Food section of fridge always warm
Located temperature sensor on condenser in the freezer section( as per instructional video ). Cut off bad sensor with wire cutter then soldered on the new sensor and sealed with electrical shrink wrap.
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- Customer:
- John J. from Deland, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
freezer no cold enought
as per video- follow all of the videos and u r going to save a lot of money tx partselect im glad I found u guys ps only order from partselect.com they only ship the correct parts remember look at the video select the symptom and buy as per video tx again problemsolved
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- Customer:
- William from Pasco, WA
- Parts Used:
- WR07X10131
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
compressor motor wouldn't start, so no refrigeration
My brother-in-law is a 15 year refrigeration technician who I called and described the problem to. He told me to put an "amp clamp" on the line side of the wires (black) that go to the starting controls on the side of the compressor. The motor has a label that has a number on it (LRA) that he used to determine the max amps it would pull. In this case, if the motor pulled 10 amps, then the motor was bad and I'd have to buy a new refrigerator. It was pulling less then 9 amps so he thought to buy a new overload, since the capacitor checked out (measured by multi-meter). As soon as the part came, I removed the back panel (4 screws removed by nut driver), removed the clip that holds the overload/capacitor assembly, detached the two wires from it, and removed the capacitor from the overload. I swapped in the new overload and repeated the above process in reverse. The only difficulty was that the new part was different in that the plug-in locations for the two wires were in different locations, and not marked. I had to disassemble the old part to figure out how it worked so I could deduce how the new one plugged in. Once that was solved, it was a quick fix. This was not a repair that just anyone could do; it required someone with a lot of experience to help me, and I am an engineer.
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