36359575991 General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Bing , Bang, Boom.

Unfortunately, the replacement part didn't come with instructions. The repair, nevertheless, was fairly straightforward. After removing the plastic parts that guide the ice through the door (by removing a few screws that attach the parts to the inside of the door), I was able to slip my hand into the ice maker dispenser and remove the old part. The part clips on. It is a tight fit through the funnel (from the outside of the freezer), however, and requires that the gasket first be "flipped" open wherein it unfolds 180 degrees. Doing this will make it easier to clip the new gasket onto the assembly.

The fan was the correct part. It arrived one day after my well trained son-in-law had left for Texas. I had to install the motor myself. He had trained me well; it was not hard. the most difficult was getting the two tabs on the fan housing to fit back into the frame of the refrigerator where they belonged. Thanks. the part & delivery were overpriced, but I needed seed and convenience. Thanks for getting it right the first time.
John Moragues

Removed housing around timer. Unpluged and
replaced timer. Defrosted freezer witk small portable heater. Freezer has worked greater since.
Saved a lot on service call.

removed freezer racks and back panel. removed and relaced defrosting harness. reassembled compartment
PartSelect rocks! easy to locate needed parts. price is fair and quick shipping. saved me $$$$

**Before you order a new part make sure you get the FULL model number off of the back of the refrigerator**
To even get to the back panel I had to melt the ice in the back of the freezer with a hair dryer. Once the ice was gone I removed 5 screws that held the panel that covers the coils. I melted more ice from the coils. I disconnected the connector for the old heater wiring harness and pooped the thermosat off. Then, removed the screws that held the heaters (2 per heater). Installed new heaters and connected wiring harness. Snapped new thermosat on. Replaced coil cover and plugged it back in.

First I removed the light cover, one screw. Then I removed the rear coil cover, three Phillips screws and two hex head screws. I then defrosted the coils and removed the old defrost element and wiring harness, two hex head screws held in the element, wiring harness just unplugs. I the installed the new defrost coils ( new one had two coils but had a previously designed area for the second element ) and ran the wiring harness up to where the plug was. I then reinstalled the coil cover plate, and light guard and started the refridgerator. Frige runs like new. Thank you PartSelect for the extremely propmt delivery and the correct part. part

So I looked at it, and saw the slide had actually broken. Immediately copied the Model Number and put THAT number into the Google Box. Up popped the Part Select site -- along with others. There was a perfectly understandable schematic (interactive.) I figured out what I needed, and ordered the parts. They arrived, and the fix was simple!!!
No $85 service call
No "We'll be there between 8 and 5"
Simple.

Ordered new auger and ice bucket assembly. Removed old door and with four screws I attached it to the new unit. Works very well!

I only took on this repair on because of the comments I read here...was soooo simple!
Removed the knobs by pulling down firmly, popped off the front panel, removed 4 faceplate screws, popped that off...removed two screws holding the control board faceplate on. Unplugged the old control board, replaced it with the new one, plugged the new one in...replaced all the screws, replaced the knobs and it was done!!! One funny note...be sure to turn the electricity off to your fridge...when you reinstall the board water and/or ice start working right away. I think I'll go have a massage with all the money we saved by not having the repair person come out!

This is a old 2000 side by side Kenmore frig bought from sears. left Freezer side was building up ice in the back, while right side was not cool at all. The Defrost Timer was behind the light panel on top in compartment side. Easily remove unit and unscrew things. Works like a champ.

disconnect the power to the unit. remove the retainer sctrews on the mounting bracket. remove fan motor from unit. using the rerquired tools remove the fan from the old motor and install on the new one. torque the nut until all slack is out then 1/4 turn. reinstall motor assy. and reconnect power. test the system .

Vacuumed the area around the compressor, removed the PTC relay switch cover, pried the broken relay switch off the unit with a screw driver and replaced with the new relay switch. Replaced the backing of the refrigerator and tested, within minutes the work was confirmed.

There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.

Shut off water and disconnected at factory joint at bottom hinge. Unplugged the electrical at the top hinge. Removed the door and installed new bottom hinge and cam assembly. Reinstalled the door and hooked water and electric back up. Part worked fine.