GSA20IBPAFBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

the parts I ordered did not fix the problem the problem was with repairman did not follow the instruction and cut jumper wire on main control board

After on two occessions from a refrigeration man who did not fix it I decided to work on it myself. Knowing it was not the overload relay or capacitor I changed the temperature control board but without success, next I took the main control biard, located on the back lower left off for inspection and found that there was a contact terminal on one of the relays melted, after resouldering contact I reinstaled the board and then plug back my refrigerator into the outlet and there it goes like brand new. It was quite easy and quick to do because the board has precisely matching plug-in-terminal wiring harness, for diconnect and reconnect, very smart way. To remove cover for access, take board off, fix and replace, it took me aproxmately fifteen minuites, only using a quarter inch stud driver. Great way. So thrust yourself and save some $Bucks. Reynold.

I followed instructions posted by experts and hands-on experienced owners on PARTS SELECT.Very helpful! Repairs was easy!.Defrost thermostat tried first,unsuccessfull then the DEFROST HEATER HARNESS next :BINGO !. Thank you PARTS SELECT ! Thank You every ones who posted their successful experiences that gave me confidence.From now on I know I can count on PARTS SELECT and its sites to solve my future headaches!

Open up the freezer make shore the fan is running/unplug the unit take out the Shelf,s take a 1/4 inch nut driver and take the back panel out pull out the ice box pull up on the back panel and pull it out to expose the coil it should be blocked with ice if it is take a blow dryer and defrost it unplug the fan and push it up. On top of the coil you will fiend the defrost timer take your hand and unstrap it and pull it out. Cut the wires and strip the wires back enough take the new part and wire nut the wires together and tape with electrical tape and put back on the coil. Put every thing back together your dun plug the unit in and wait over night if you can to let every thing cool.

I followed the step by step instructions on provided by Part Select. I replaced the coil heater and temperature switch.

Using a nut driver, I removed the panel that covers the freezer coil. Using wire stripper/cutters. I replace the Temperature sensor and Thermostat. I also replaced the heater element that comes on when the freezer goes into defrost mode. Worked like a charm. The original problem was the freezer compartment would thaw just enough to start the melting process then freeze everything and build up ice to the point where the ice that was produced from the ice maker would just turn into a big block of ice. Everything is working perfectly now with only an hours worth of work and about $75.00 in parts.

I replaced both the Defrost Thermostat and the Temperature Sensor located on the top of the cooling coils. I ordered them because they were the least expensive items that addressed my problem. They did not correct my problem. I then ordered the Main Control circuit board. I installed the board in about 15 minutes. Finally my freezer returned to the set temperature of 0 degrees F. Problem solved

We watched the how to install videos online then installed the new parts. Quick easy and now our freezer is defrosting like it should. Thanks Parts Select.

Remove everything from the freezer. Suggest buying new rack holders when replacing the fan. I would suggest people who are not mechanical savvy to put drops of different colored nail polish on the screws and sensors so the know where to put them back. The job was quick and saved money from having to have someone else repair it.

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.

watch you tube demo how to do it.

followed part select video instructions

Replace defrost termostat and temperature sensor

Followed the repair video, was spot on!!

luckly i have a bit of experience in refrigeration im an hvac technician by trade. this repair was a bit tricky in that i did not know at first if it was a Temperature Sensor issue or the main control board. I had tested the defrost termination thermostat and the defrost heater and as i suspected they were ok. Next i wanted to test the thermistors (temp sensors) it is hard to find technical data on these fridges. I needed to test the thermistors resistance @ a certian temperature to ensure they were working properly but where do u get such data? I also wanted to know some information about the logic programmed into the board (i.e when do you initiate defrost etc. . .). I had no such luck so i figured since i tested the defrost heater and thermostat and they were ok and all of the evap fans and such were working i'd order a circuit board and new thermistors. Got the CORRECT PARTS from this site in 2 business days and my fridge is working great! changing the parts was really easy, figuring out which parts to change was the only difficult thing about this job.