MRSC22DRAWH General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Replaced the old cams with new ones, door works perfect now.

Thought I would only need one when I looked at the picture of the parts. Decided to order two just in case and after taking it apart both were broken. Needed two.
Took the top door bracket off and lifted the door off of the bottom bracket. Re-assembled cams, put a little white grease on all moving parts, placed the door into bottom bracket and installed top bracket. Adjusted top bracket to make door line up with edge of refrigerator and all is well.

Remove screw at hinge cover, top of door.
Remove two screw/nuts at hinge and remove hinge while holding door in place.
Lift door off of lower hinge
remove two nut/screws at bottom of door and replace closing cam. Be sure the pivot pin hole in the cam is lined up with the hole in door.

Next drill out rivet holding cam to lower hinge on the refer. Install cam with a pan head screw and nut (to replace rivet). It will help if you remove the plastic grille cover at the bottom of the frige.

Set door back on the lower pin and shut so the the magnetic strip holds the door in place. Re-install the upper hinge loosely. Adjust the door for an even gap and tighten the screw/nuts. Re-install the cover.

A very easy fix.

First of all, It was Christmas and no extra money to pay a repairman.
i got on the computer and started looking for a parts breakdown for an older GE side by side.
I finally found it and located the part I thought we needed.
I looked at several parts dealers and yours had the best price.
anyway it arrived in just 2 days. My son helped me remove the door and we put the new part on and I just saved the cost of a service call.

Thank You

Door needed to be supported before hinge assembly was removed. After replacing broken cam doors aligned and doors closing properly.

I did not realize I needed 2 cams to complete repair. Door cam was riveted in. I had to drill out rivet and replace with nut and bolt. Otherwise it went quite sommothly. At first I just replaced the cam on bottom of refridgerator but door was not quite right when closing. Further inspection showed the door had the other half of cam that also needed replacement. Needed 2 orders. Paid for 2 shippings.

removed the door, installed the cam riser, and reattached the door. It took longer to remove the contents in the door than it did to install the cam riser.

I removed two screws at the top of the door, lifted the door off. I got lucky: the broken cam was the one on the door (easy to remove), not the one on the body of the refrigerator (tough to remove).
There is a shim which was also broken - no way to know that ahead of time. I bent a 5/8" lock washer flat and it served acceptably as a shim.
It would be helpful if PartSelect.com could include with its listing of the cam, the fact that (1) the shim will probably be needed, and (2) there's a very good chance that you'll need TWO of the cams as well.

removed top plate and raised the door off. I removed the L bracket from the fridge then noticed the part was rivited onto the L bracket. I cut the rivit and replaced the cam and used a small bolt and nut to sdecure it. Replaced the L bracket, the door, and the upper support. Only problem was the surprise rivit

I first removed all of the door contents. I then removed the door from its mountings by removing two screws at the bottom bracket. With the door lying on the floor I then removed the two screws holding the door cam assembly in place. I inserted the new door cam, then reversed the process replacing the four screws.

completely removed door, then replaced worn-out cam on bottom of door-simple enough; then removed hinge from bottom of refrigerator; removing old cam required drilling out the rivet that fastened cam to hinge; secured new cam to hinge with small machine screw and nut. This procedure is relatively easy but does require minor mechanical ability and having a small drill and bit set. However, replacing the two cams totally fixed the problem.

Followed previous poster's steps. Replacement of door closing cams took 35 minutes. Make sure you buy 2 cams for each door.

The old plastic door closer cam on bottom of the the door had broken. What was left of it was held on by a hex head screw. There was also a fiber spacer under the cam that was broken. I made a new one out of a piece of aluminum, but cardboard probably would have worked.

Forgot to mention you have to take the door off first--loosen the two screws on the top hinge and lift the door out of the bottom hinge.

I found the self-closing sometimes won't work well until there is some weight in the door.

I Supported the door with wood blocks. Then used a socket wrench to remove both parts of the lower hinge. I had purchased 2 of these plastic closers as recommended. One of them must be cut off with a Dremel Tool or small grinder. A small bolt and nut replaces the rivet that was cut off. Reinstall it just as it was removed. Job complete.
Parts were delivered on time, web site instructions were excellent. I highly recommend PartSelect.com

Removed refrigerator door and replaced bottom door pivot with the included mating cam and the door closing cam on the bottom of the door.

I didn't know that there were two mating cams and only ordered the door closing cam which I read online was the problem. It was the number one part on the part select list. The number two part was a kit including the door closing cam and the pivot with mating cam attached. It would have been helpful if there had been some notes that said check condition of both cams before ordering the part. So I have a spare door closing cam and paid an extra $19 including $8 shipping which negated a return.

The repair is easy - getting the right parts the first time is the trick.