ETS22SBSARSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

Once the part was received, it was very easy to snap the new part into place, and reinstall the drawers. No tools were required to complete the repair.

removed the inside fridge electrical panel and swapped switches

It was very tricky getting the old piece out, even though it was partially broken... I ended up snapping the old piece to remove it. Trying to install the new track with the glass shelf above was not working at all, but once I removed the glass shelf above it, the new piece went in pretty easily. With the glass shelf out, I could angle the track upward to get it into position. In retrospect, I should have removed the glass shelf from the start... it would have made removal of the old piece much easier.

easy pry out, disconnect wiring, connect on new switch and press in switch.

Removed shelves and light bulb. Undid the two screws on the back panel with nut driver. Snipped the two wire leads to the defrost thermostat. ( orange and pink wires) Carefully removed the defrost thermostat from the coil. Stripped both ends of the wire leads about a half inch and onnected with two wire nuts. Then wrapped with electrical tape to seal from moisture. Carefully attached defrost thermostat to coil. Screwed the back panel back on. Reinstalled light bulb and shelves. And plugged refrigerator back in. Works like a charm. Saved close to 100.00 dollars doing repair myself.

Defrost cycle staying on too long causing ice to melt, refreeze and seizing up ice maker. Replaced temp sensor and defrost thermostat just to be sure. Fixed the problem.

Took out shelf, unscrewed old track, screwed on new track. Only thing is not a standard flat or Phillips screw head so if you don't have a star head bit, you are out of luck.

Unplugged the refrigerator first....then on the inside of the fridge, I popped the temp sensor cover off (upper LH side) and exposed the old sensor. I snipped off the old sensor about 3" down from the end and connected the new sensor (which I trimmed down to about 3" long) with some heat shrink wire nuts/connectors. Let the fridge run for a day or so and confirmed the problem was solved! Oh yeah, there was no way to tell the 2 wires apart (power vs. ground) on the sensor. However there was a manufacturer's stamp on the wires. So note the orientation of the text and mark one of the wires with a sharpie on both the old and new sensor before trimming. This will give you a reference for which wires to connect when adding the new sensor to the old wires.

I took the pan out, replaced the bar with the new part - slide pan RH - and I was back in business. It couldn't have been easier.

just took out old one and slid new one in.

removed back panel from freezer. located thermostat removed and replaced thermostat put panel and all baskets back into freezer and plugged fridge back in. Works perfect problem solved

Removed the panel on the back wall inside the freezer side. To do this I unplugged the appliance, removed the racks, drawer, bulb and two screws holding the panel in place. The defrost cycle was not working so ice buildup on the coil was to the point of blocking air flow to the refrigerator side. I used a hair dryer set on high and stuffed two towels at the base of the coil to collect the melting frost and ice. Once the coil was clear of frost and ice I took the defrost timer off by sliding the clip off the tube, cut the wires and stripped the ends so I could use wire nuts to make the new connections . Placed the new defrost timer in the clip and reattached in the same location the old one was removed from. The sensor was replaced by doing the same steps. I replaced the panel after all the wire nuts were secured and the wires were tucked away where they would not interfere with the fan. Replaced the bulb, drawer, racks and food and plugged The refrigerator back in. 20 minutes from beginning to end.

removed shelves and rear panel. cut wires, spliced in new part used wire nuts and filled wire nuts with silicone, replaced back panel and shelving