PTG25LBMARBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I ordered the part but my husband had to work out of town for a week. The fridge kept getting warmer, so when the part came I just watched the video on the internet, (bit the bullet) and did the repair just as I saw it done on the video. It was simple and exactly the same as the video. It took a little longer for me because there was a lot of ice built up on the coils, so I used my hair dryer to melt the ice. My refridgerator is working great now.

I took the ice maker out then the panels that closes in the evaporator coil. Disconnected the defrost censer and tested it with an ice bath. The censer did not close the circuit. So it's bad. I got the parts .(Very fast I might add. The PartSelect team did a great job of getting it to me). I the stripped the wires and spliced the like colors back together and tested the censer again with an ice bath. It closed this time. I started the frig and have not heard anything from the client. In this case "No news is good news". Thanks PartSelect

Removed food from Freezer, Unplugged refrigerator. Removed light bulb cover and ligt bulb. Unplugged and removed Ice maker and motor. Removed air duct cover from motor. Unplugged and removed evaporator housing and fan. Pulled fan blade off. Unscrewed brackets from fan motor, removed dust cap from top of motor and grommet from bottom. New motor came with 6 pin connector and four pins for evaporator fan motor. Cut the harness grommet to separate the light bulb wiring from the evaporator motor's. Pushed the the old light bulb pins (red and orange) from old connector and push them in to the new fan motor connector. Reversed the process and no more noise

Refrigerator was showing actual temperature of 80 deg, freezer was about 3 deg high. (house temp was 65 at the time) Defrost heater seemed like the only component able to heat that much, so the defrost thermostat seemed like the likely culprit. I followed the installation directions in the video, and the fridge has been fine ever since.

I took off the back panel in the freezer. Located the wires going to the old thermostat, cut them with wire cutters. I then spliced the matching wires together and attached the part to the coil tube (There is a little clip on the part, be sure to do this because I forgot and had to go back and do this again!!!).

All the rest of everyone's post are all what I did. The only other thing I recommend is to put the back panel over the evaporator coils when your done. I replaced defrost thermostat, and heater. Once I initially completed it it kept icing over more than usual. You have to put the back panel back on so airflow goes over the coils.

My Ge top freezer fefrigerator was going into defrost mode and the heater was staying on for too long causing the food to thaw and eventually refreeze. Originally thought it was the mother board but after researching and do some troubleshooting of my own I realized the defrost terminating thermostat was bad. $8 part from Parts Select. Accessed the evaporator by removing back wall plate. Located thermostat and cut two lead wires to it. Spliced in new thermostat and reattached to eveaporator. Refrigerator seems to be good as new. There is an installation video on the web page that shows you step by step proceedure.

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

Once the part was received, it was very easy to snap the new part into place, and reinstall the drawers. No tools were required to complete the repair.

took out shelves and removed the back plate my removing 2 screws with a nutdriver.removed the old defrost timer and defrost heater which was really easy.then installed the new ones.the video i watched on the website was really helpfull.

With my hands and tools. It was real easy. Now just waiting to see it that was the problem.

My defrost was not working, so from time to time I had to remove the accumulated ice with a hair dryer. I did some research and found out it is typically caused by a failing defrost thermostat, or temperature sensor. I purchase and replaced both for 30 dollars. Really easy. I watched the instruction videos on the site at least 5 times, so when I did it, it was like I was doing for the 5th time. Now the fridge works just fine!!

The repair is a snap, you can watch the video and it will put you on the right path. My story is more about the service that Part Select gave me. I used a small box fan on low as a temporary fix. My model number was worn off from the box wine we store in that particular place. So I ordered the part based on looks, well it was wrong. Called Part Select and we talked, the nice lady on the other end said OH it must be this fan motor. Send us back that one, and I'll get this out too you. I'll credit your account for $7.99, and it cost me $8.99 to ship back the wrong part. Wow, the next day I received the new motor. They sent it overnight! I thought it would be 5-6 days! Unbelievable. I will use this company for any, and all my repairs.

Unplug the refrigerator and remove frozen food, shelving, light and back panel inside the freezer section to expose the cooling coils. The coils were completely iced over. Using a wet dry vacuum to discharge the air toward the coils quickly melted the ice. The trouble shooting section on your website described my problem and I bought both items which were the most common problem. Using the video(s) e-mailed to me when purchasing the parts provided great information regarding details for the repair. After replacing both parts the refrigerator is working great having spent just under $25.00.

removed shelves and rear panel. cut wires, spliced in new part used wire nuts and filled wire nuts with silicone, replaced back panel and shelving