GTS22FBMARWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the old control board at the rear of the refigerator, installed the replacement board.

narrowed it down to the circuit board...removed cover panel after unplugging frig. read directions thouroughly.... removed cables attached to old board. this is the tricky part removing the board from the plastic clips....broke two pulling old board off popped new Board onto remaining plastic mounting clips and reattached cables plugged frig in and got a shock as my shoulder touched the board. everything seemed to be working and but cover back on....viola all done.

Disconnected power, removed screws from cover on back of refrigerator, unpluged wire connectors, squezzed four support fasteners and removed old board. Put new board on support fasteners, reconnected wiring, replaced cover, pluged power back in, turned controls back on. It wored fine.

You guys ought to win some sort of website Emmy. I found your site as I was searching for a new motherboard, thinking this was the cause of the temperature control problem. I took the time to go through the little diagnostic process you offer and I discovered that the much less expensive defrost thermostat was more often the root cause of the problem ($8 vs $160 for the new motherboard). The part arrived within 3 days and the installation video was enormously helpful. Removal of the rear panel was more difficult than suggested on the video. I'd suggest removing the freezer light fixture before trying to remove the panel as it is nearly impossible to bend the metal panel around the light bulb bases. Anyway, the whole job cost me about $16 for parts and delivery and the fridge is running fine. The combination of the diagnostic tool and the installation video were fantastic...far beyond expectations.

Disconnected the refrigerator for a few hours. On back of frezer compartment unscrew 4 screw to get access to Old defrost thermostat (D. T.). I cut the two wires with pliyers atached to D. T. Peel them about one inch both the old and new D. T. With plyier. Color coded put them together. I used those electrical cap wires to attach them toguether an electrical tape around it to prevent any moisture. Now working like new. Expend approximately $25. And 20 minutes of my time. (I was being charged for the repair. $250.) Now is working like new. Thanks

Replaced Temperature Sensor and now it is getting cold.

remove shelf above tray to access rail. remove broken rail. use screws from broken rail to attach rail to shelf.

As per the video , I unplugged the appliance and defrosted the freezer . Then removed the shelves and back from the freezer. Located and removed the old parts and installed the new ones which took about 20 minutes. Reassembled the appliance, plugged it in and it was cold within a few hours. Thanks for all the help

Remove one nut top of ice box cut wire and replace temperature sensor in freezer part remove two nuts on back panel and cut wire and add temperature sensor then remove defrost thermostat cut orange and pink wire and twist together new sensor and tape up and one more temperature sensor add bottom of freezer cut and replace and tape up all wire and replace back cover simple easy job

I removed the top vent and unplugged the ice machine ,took the back cover off the freezer.Removed the old fan which was pretty easy(unplugged it after I took the housing out for easy access) I plugged the new fan in and put everything back in the order I took off, and yada yada yada we have cooling.

Received main board in less than two days. back of frig. small panel removed 3 screws, removed cover exposing main board with needle plires squeesed 4 plastic tips to release board unpluged conectors, reinstaled new board, worked perfict. Thank you for your helpfull web site. Bob.

Disconnected power at outlet. Removed three screws from access panel. Disconnected six electrical connections, compressed three plastic retaining pins and removed board. Installed new board and reconnected connections, installed three screws on access panel and turned the fridge on. No more crazy evaporator motor noise

diagnosis, fan would run more than normal, compressor would only come on sometimes, check line voltage to the mother board (yes !!! a mother board with a relay for the compressor built onto it )! check the switched voltage out to the compressor. If a/c 115 in but no a/c 115 out while the fan is on replace the mother board. Remember this is a LIVE VOLTAGE TEST, BE CAREFUL HOW AND WHAT YOU TOUCH YOUR LIFE IS NOT WORTH SAVING A REPAIR BILL !!!
I suppose if if went long enough in this condition the result would be fan runs a lot but it does not get cold.
Hope this helps
God Bless
Captain Scott Cousins

I used a steak knife and pried the broken piece off, lined up the plastic pins, gently tapped them down (with the knife handle) and stepped back and admired my work.

You web site made it easy to see I was ording the correct part. No guessing, ordering, returning and reordering to get the right part.

Thank You
Barb Anderson

After determining it was not a problem with the defrost cycle, ( this refrigerator had no separate defrost timer), I ordered the main circuit board with the hope that the relays built into it were hanging up and not properly turning on the compressor, (a chattering sound could be heard). Ten screws to take the access cover to the board off and a few connectors later and it was as good as new. Took about ten minutes!