PTG25SBSARSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

watch you tube demo how to do it.

I had already replaced the icemaker and solenoid valve and had not solved my problem. After I looked at the back wall gasket, it was obvious that the element was getting too hot. Installation was really simple- unplug refrigerator cord, remove frozen food and racks, remove light cover and back sheet metal by removing 4 screws, cut and splice wires to new parts. Reinstall.

I followed the step by step instructions on provided by Part Select. I replaced the coil heater and temperature switch.

We watched the how to install videos online then installed the new parts. Quick easy and now our freezer is defrosting like it should. Thanks Parts Select.

After removing all the parts, the bins and a large glass fitted shelf or lid, on top of the two crisper bins I then removed the whole frame the three glides are mounted to. The frame is molded into one large piece matching the whole horizontal space of the refrigerator, so it is wiggled loose from its space. I lifted out the whole thing and placed it on a surface on which I could work while see everything I was doing. With no screw (both top and bottom of the U-shaped gripper “clevis” end are solid) or other type fastener that could be removed I finally just pried the "clevis" of the center glide that grips the front of the frame. This clevis grips a set of small plastic studs that fit into matching round indentations in the top and bottom of the clevis jaws. It’s necessary to keep the stud from slipping back into the first indentation while opening up the other side of the jaw so that both are free at the same time and the clevis will slide sideways. Using a butter knife because it was a good fit and stiff enough, I released the top, and then the bottom using the knife to bend it a little bit. The clevis opens up just enough to allow the edge of the frame it’s gripping to be released from its grip. The new one is put back in exactly the same manner but in reverse. The opposite end from the clevis simply tilts up until it can be disengage and reengaged in the same manner

Just like the video show on the wed site.

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.

Replaced above parts and the noise problem was not resolved. Ordered a new motor, fan blade and another set of grommets from PartSelect. The parts were delivered the next day. Took me about 15 minutes to swap the new parts in. It's been 3 days since the repair and the noise has not returned.

Followed the repair video, was spot on!!

luckly i have a bit of experience in refrigeration im an hvac technician by trade. this repair was a bit tricky in that i did not know at first if it was a Temperature Sensor issue or the main control board. I had tested the defrost termination thermostat and the defrost heater and as i suspected they were ok. Next i wanted to test the thermistors (temp sensors) it is hard to find technical data on these fridges. I needed to test the thermistors resistance @ a certian temperature to ensure they were working properly but where do u get such data? I also wanted to know some information about the logic programmed into the board (i.e when do you initiate defrost etc. . .). I had no such luck so i figured since i tested the defrost heater and thermostat and they were ok and all of the evap fans and such were working i'd order a circuit board and new thermistors. Got the CORRECT PARTS from this site in 2 business days and my fridge is working great! changing the parts was really easy, figuring out which parts to change was the only difficult thing about this job.

I looked at your video . very nice. job went fast. thank you mike.

Based on instruction I replaced the defrost thermostat and the temperature sensor. There was no improvement. The defrost thermostat was supplied with orange and red wires. the original wires were orange and pink. I connected the 2 orange wires and the pink to the red. So I don't really know if that is the problem or not. currently I don't know what to do next anyone got an ideas? It has dual evaporation.

first unplug unit then pulled the inside back freezer cover off piled towels around and defrosted the the unit thoroughly. located the defroster unit tested for continuity was good so i replaced the temp sensors they were just nip off the old one and splice in the new one. also replace the defroster thermostat was the same nip and splice. *the parts shop did not find the model #i have but knowing those parts are interchangeable with all G-E models i ordered the parts

1. Removed and tested defrost heater, tests good. 2. Reinstalled defrost heater. 3. Removed and tested defrost over-temperature sensor, tests good. 4. Reinstalled over-temperature sensor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 5. Removed the control printed circuit board and checked for blown fuse's, fuse's are all good. 6. Removed the defrost relay from the printed circuit board using soldering iron, bench tested the relay, it is good. 7. Soldered defrost relay back onto the circuit board, and reinstalled control board. 8. Removed and bench tested evaporator thermistor, the resistance is out of specification, ordered new thermister. 9. Installed new thermistor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 10. Re-assembled refrigerator. 11. Installed temperature monitoring and recording instrumentation for 72 hour test. The defrost cycle is running correctly with a defrost termination temperature of around 90 deg-f. The defrost cycle ran twice while running the 72 hour test. 11. Removed test instrumentation and Put the unit back into service, The thermistor was the culprit. I bought the right part on the first shot, nice.

We just pried off the fan blades and pushed on the new part. Could not have been easier. The rat has been permanently dipatched and, hopefully, that is that.