PFSS5NFWASS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Pulled out produce drawers. Pulled out frame pan, and took apart all parts attached to it, Installed parts on new frame,and reinstalled in fridge.Part fixed perfectsly, guy on phone who helped me getthe right part was terrific.

I can't tell you how luck I feel after finding your website I ordered the temperature sensor after watching one of your videos on-line and the repair went just as on the video. I pulled the "bad" sensor out, and replaced it with the new one. Keep in mind that this is the first time I ever touch an appliance, needless to say I'm feeling pretty good about that! All in all it took me about 20 minutes to complete my repair and it now has been about 4 days and the refrigerator is working like new again!

First of all unplug refrigerator. Removed cover plate at lower rear of refrigerator. Marked and unplugged connectors. squeezed plastic projections with pliers to release board from refrigerator making sure not to break them. Reattached new board over plastic projections and reconnected plug in electrical connectors. Reattached cover plat making sure the ground wire is placed back under top middle screw. Plug in the refrigerator making sure the water in turned on before sliding the refrigerator back in place. Wait for ice to drop. Less than an hour.

killed power-gently pried out old switch using two screw drivers-replaced faulty switch-and tested OK.

Remove the shelves then remove the back by removing the two screws at the top of the panel. Locate the temperature sensor on top of the coil. Cut the wires and replace with the new one. Use wire nuts and electrical tape to reconnect the wires.

The problem began when freezer thawed and could not keep food frozen. Initially, I thought the issue was the defrost heater (because I had seen similar symptoms previously and resolved the issue with a new defrost heater)and I replaced that part with a spare that I had puchased previously. The issue was still unresolved and I noticed the evaporator fan was not running in the freezer because it would not turn on when I closed the door. I checked to make sure I could hear the compressor working (and it was)and concluded that the evaporator fan motor was not running. I ordered the part and found a YouTube DIY video on how to replace it. While I was at work, my fiancee took it upon herself to watch the installation video and install the new evaporator fan motor and all is well.

I decided to replace motor and fan, having previously altered/trimmed the fan which stopped the howling but caused a vibration. Unplug from mains. Clear out two top shelves in freezer. Remove light cover. Remove two screws(1/4 driver)at top of steel panel in rear of compartment and let it drop. Remove two screws above light. Pry up section above light/fan housing to access two screws retaining the light/fan assembly, loosen screws sufficiently so that assembly can be lifted and removed. Disconnect wiring plug by pinching in the sides of the plug and pulling out. Pull fan off motor shaft. Remove two screws clamping motor. Cut cable tie and molded wiring grommet to free wiring. The existing light wires can be removed from the old plug by carefully cutting around the old plug to free the pins and then pushing the pins into the new plug. Reverse procedure to assemble.

replace sensor in refriger.

Then I fixed it.

replaced the icemaker inlet valve. works like a champ now

remove the Ice tray, remove hex bolts from ice tray hangers on side of freezer. unscrew ice maker and remove it. Remove ice tray auger motor assembaly (4 hex bolts) remove 2 more hex bolts from top of rear inside panel. remove 4 hex bolts from lower panel as well. now with lower section out, you should see the last 2 hex bolts holding on plastic shield (top section rear panel) un screw light cover. Squeeze light fixture and push in. now remove entire top section of panel. All will be exposed. Remove old motor housing, disconnect wires, remove clip from coils. (NEW MOTOR DOES NOT HAVE CLIP OR WIRE FOR COILS)Attatch new motor and replace grommits. Reverse instructions for re installation.

Ironically I did this today, as this email request came up asking how it went. I'm not a repairman, I'm a software engineer, and I can't thank this site enough for the step by step videos. With the video to help, this was a breeze, I was nervous as I had to empty all my freezer out onto the living room floor. Once that was done the repair took about 30 minutes. Thank you partselect!!!!! My second time doing business here, and I'll be coming back (well, if something breaks, so let's hope I don't have to).

Replaced all the sensors in both the feezer and refrigerator.Even though it colder now it still is not cold enough.Freezer won't freeze items but is cold and refrigerator still not real cold

I had replaced the sensors, thermostat and evaporater heater without correcting the problem. Decided to try the control board. The main problem has been the ice in icemaker melting every couple of days and thawing all over the freezer food. The top part of the freezer compartment thawed with less thawing in the lower section. Removed back metal cover. Unplugged fridge, took picture of control board to remember locations of connections. Never needed it though as I took caution to remember the different connections. Unplugged all of the connections and then took needle nose pliers to depress the 4 pins holding the control board in place one at a time. This was a bit difficult and you will need to exercise patience. Not my long suit. Eventually I depressed the pins correctly and got the old control board to slide out. Replaced with new control board and re-connected all the wire harnesses. They actually slide on pretty easily if you have them in the correct position. I also had taken all the food out of the freezer and removed the cover to the evaporator which was iced up. Took a hair dryer and thawed all the ice before re-starting the fridge to give it a nice clean start. Replaced the back panel and plugged in the fridge. 4 days now and it is running great so far. A lot quieter than before.

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.