ETS22XBPDRCC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- chol from Glenview, IL
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
refriger warm
replace sensor in refriger.
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- Customer:
- Paul from Altoona, IA
- Parts Used:
- WR60X10220, WR07X10055
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
the fan motor wouldn't run and the refrigerator wouldn't cycle.
Unplugged refrigerator and removed rear cover. Removed the two attaching cap screws from the mounting bracket. Removed fan blade by sliding it off the shaft, disconnected wiring plug and removed the motor. Removed the rubber grommets from the old motor and installed on the new unit. Set the new unit in place and reinstall the fan blade, mounting bracket and screw into place. Reconnect the wiring harness. To replace the relay, simply remove the wire clip from the relay cover, slide the relay off the connecting pins on the compressor and disconnect the wires. Slide the new relay into place, reconnect the wires and replace the cover.
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- Customer:
- rodney from cave city, AR
- Parts Used:
- WR60X10220, WR60X10207
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
warm in lower area and not freezing good in freezer area
condenser fan on bottom condenser not runningchanged fan and fan motor
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- Customer:
- Laura from Brentwood, MD
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench set
freezer and refrigerator wasn't cold
Replaced all the sensors in both the feezer and refrigerator.Even though it colder now it still is not cold enough.Freezer won't freeze items but is cold and refrigerator still not real cold
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- Customer:
- stephen from vernon, AL
- Parts Used:
- WR50X10071
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
fridge stoped cooling
unplug fridge! removed ice maker. removed the back panel in frezer. I uncliped thermostat; cut wires on thermostat and installed new thermostat.
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- Customer:
- Kevin from York, PA
- Parts Used:
- WR60X10220, WR60X10207
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Freezer not cold, Frig cold enough, runs all the time, Hot to touch in spots.
My compressor fan that blows over the coils was not spinning. I measured 120 VAC going to the fan so I knew it should have been spinning but wasn't. Took fan motor out and took it apart and super lubed the motor to get it spinning again temporarily until I could get the new one in. Put new one in and has been working for about 10 days now. Freezer is not below 0 deg F which is what you want. Frig is below 40 deg F also what you want.
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- Customer:
- Andenet from Haymarket, VA
- Parts Used:
- WR60X10220
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Fan and housing cannot be removed together.
On partselects video the gentleman removes the fan and housing in one piece. This is a great idea but does not work on this brand of ge. I removed the fan housing screw as instructed but left it in place and swiveled it enough to access the retaining screws with a socket driver. Over all swap of the fan was seamless and the video is a gem. Andy
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- Customer:
- Brandon from Bruceton Mills, WV
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Defroster stopped working and iced up evaporator coil
I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.
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- Customer:
- thomas from albany, NY
- Parts Used:
- WR23X10334, WR09X10104, WR02X11567, WR01X10220
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
frig ran to often
took apart stat. area rplaced wire harness &t.stat simple but im a retired union electrican so wiring was a bit easy
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- Customer:
- michael from silver bay, MN
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Fridge Side Freezing/Too Cold
Followed the repair video, was spot on!!
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- Customer:
- Jason Mcgee from Catawissa, MO
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
freezer would not defrost or maintain temperature
luckly i have a bit of experience in refrigeration im an hvac technician by trade. this repair was a bit tricky in that i did not know at first if it was a Temperature Sensor issue or the main control board. I had tested the defrost termination thermostat and the defrost heater and as i suspected they were ok. Next i wanted to test the thermistors (temp sensors) it is hard to find technical data on these fridges. I needed to test the thermistors resistance @ a certian temperature to ensure they were working properly but where do u get such data? I also wanted to know some information about the logic programmed into the board (i.e when do you initiate defrost etc. . .). I had no such luck so i figured since i tested the defrost heater and thermostat and they were ok and all of the evap fans and such were working i'd order a circuit board and new thermistors. Got the CORRECT PARTS from this site in 2 business days and my fridge is working great! changing the parts was really easy, figuring out which parts to change was the only difficult thing about this job.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Hudson, OH
- Parts Used:
- WR60X10220, WR60X10207, WR02X10100, WR02X10098
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
squealing noise and refrigerator was feeling warm
Without the video, I would have been lost. I pulled the entire bracket out of the refrigerator, but could not insert the tab and adjust the bracket back in place, so I removed the bracket and motor, inserted the main frame bracket then re-installed the motor, fan , grommets, bracket. It's working.
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- Customer:
- Kirk from Springfield, MO
- Parts Used:
- WR60X10220
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Socket set
Condenser Fan was shot.
I followed the instructions in the video regarding removal, repair and reinstall. It all went as the video said, except for the reinstall. The rear tab did not snick into place like the one in the video did, and it was extremely difficult to see whether or not it was inserted properly. I ended up inserting the rear tab by feel, and then I had to hold it in place while I stretched the front part of the frame to line up the screw hole in order to reinsert the screw. I had to have my wife hold the flashlight while I did that in order to see. Other than that, the repair went well, it is working like a charm, and I know I have a quality GE part in my refrigerator again! Many thanks to Partselect for their speediness in getting the part to me and giving me the needed information in getting the repair done! I will shop here again.
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- Customer:
- Nick from Burnt Cabins, PA
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Fridge/Freezer getting too warm
What an awesome site! After putting in my model number and finding the problem I was having, I simply picked the 2 parts that were most likely to solve the problem. I bought a defrost thermostat, and defrost heater. To a high certainty, they would solve my problem. They didn't however! I ended up having to buy a temperature sensor on another order a few weeks later when the problem resurfaced! My own fault. I should have bought it the first time. As others have written: the longest part of the job is defrosting the ice from the coil. One thing I did that I didn't see suggested: plug the drain hole below the coil. I put a couple towels in the bottom of the freezer and ran the hair dryer. Didn't take long. I read that the amount of water created will overflow the pan under the refrigerator, so I plugged the drain hole. Once you clean that mess up, the repair is pretty straight forward. Great site. Even through I had to make two separate purchases, I still saved a lot of money. Thanks!
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- Customer:
- Bill from Warrenton, VA
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Refridgerator not cooling, freezer frosting over
First, I had to remove the freezer drawer front. This is 8 large phillips head screws. then remove the plastic cover over the drawer slides. to do this, remove the white center screw from the slide near where it attaches to the drawer front. then the plastic cover will slide off pushing to the rear of the slide. take off the slides from the freezer walls by removing the phillips screws and pulling them towards you. They have tabs/slots in the rear. remove the center tray support and support bars, too. the icemaker has to come out, that is just 2 phillips screws but you also have to disconnect the electrical connector. just squeeze the locking wings and rock/pull. a screw in the top center of the back panel comes out. Lift and pull the back panel out. The evaporator coil appears. The thermocouple is attached to the coil in the upper right. Cut that one's wires and take it out. Just cut back about an inch from the back of the thermocouple, there is not much slack. Seperate and strip the wires back about 3/8 inch. Do the same for the new thermocouple. I twisted the wires together and used a solder sleeve to join the wires. The sleeve is just a little plastic tube that has a ring of solder in it that melts with heat gun heat. You can join the wires using butt connectors or whatever method appeals to you. I just wound the extra wire and put a cable tie around it, there is plenty of hiding space in that area. Make sure the new thermocouple is contacting the coil firmly.At this point, for a test, I left everything apart, propped the drawer against the opening and plugged the fridge in. Note that the evaporator fan will not start spinning immediately! It will just sit there making little bumps like it wants to go. The temp in the coil has to get settled before the electronics in the refridge will tell the fan to spin. It takes maybe 20 minutes. Reassemble. Fridge and freezer work great. It does take several hours for all to get cold again.
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