TFS22PPBEBS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

the first thing i did was replace the water valve at the bottom of the refrigerator but that didn't work so then i spent more time researching the problem on your site and your diagnostic said to replace the ice maker so i ordered it, took the old one out, plugged the new one in and we had ice the next day.

I removed the back panel held in place by 5 screws. I located the thermostat and disconnected it from the wire connection to another part. Due to the connection requirement, I had to cut the wires from the original part and splice the connector with wires to the new part. After securing the spliced wires and covering in electrical tape, I replaced the panel and all screws.

The problem is the common issue that the proximity of the plastic water lines that leave the electrically controlled valve near the compressor in the bottom back corner of the fridge, means they become brittle and crack/break. Both the line leaving to the ice-maker that runs diagonally across the outside back of the fridge, and the line that runs under the fridge to feed the water dispenser failed at the valve, breaking off just where they start at the valve.

The result was I noticed a big puddle coming out from under the fridge (too late for the poor wood floor).

The solution, replace the parts. For the ice maker line, it is one thin line - its easy to replace other than taking care to uncrimp and recrimp the connection up at the entry to the freezer.

For the thicker tube, the one that goes to the water dispenser, you replace the reservoir tank that sits inside the fridge. It has the two lines leaving it permanently attached to the tank, hence you replace the whole thing. There are separate lines and a splice/union that can be used to replace just the last 6 inches near the compressor, but I chose to replace the whole unit. This describes replacing that water chill tank unit.

The tank sits behind the bottom 2 drawers in the fridge.. you see it when you pull out the drawers. It has two lines permanently attached, one runs out of one hole in the bottom of the fridge and to the back of the fridge where it attaches to the exit on the electrical valve. The other runs out of the other hole in the bottom of the fridge and runs along the side, then along the front from the fridge to the freezer side. There is a union that connects that line to another line that then runs up the freezer door. Remove the front cover under the fridge to see this line and the union.

To replace the tank, you have to disconnect it from both ends, where its held in by plastic nuts/unions. Water remaining in the lines will drain out when you disconnect them. I unscrewed the valve assembly from the fridge body and then unplugged the plugs to the valves to do the work (but left the fridge plugged in).

To do this work, I needed to raise the fridge side edge of the appliance, since the hoses route along the underside of the fridge. After you disconnect the two ends (at the union on the freezer side bottom front egdge, and back side at the valve) you can pull the hoses up into the fridge. Routing the new hoses will require you have at least that one side off the floor to get your hands under it. I got two 6" tall 4x4 wood blocks and tipped the fridge slightly, raising the right (fridge) side off the ground and slid the blocks under the fridge rollers.

To remove the tank, before you raise the edge of the fridge, there are two screws that you need to remove (top side and left side) from the storage tank.

I recommend that in addition to removing the bottom two drawers, you remove all the bins hanging in the fridge door, since you need to work in there with gravity wanting to shut the door on you. Once you have the tank unscrewed (and the hose ends disconnected) note which hose(based on where it connects to the tank) goes to which hole in the bottom of the fridge. Pull up the hoses from the inside the fridge. The tank is free..go put it in the sink and drain the water out.

Installing the new tank, remove any hose end caps and route the hoses back through the lower drawer support frame you pulled them out of, and feed the correct hoses back through the holes in the bottom of the fridge. I found it better to feed the longer one first, which leads to the water dispenser/front. I could then pull that one up front from under the raised fridge and clip it in place and then route the other hose fully though its hole and route it to the back of the fridge to the valve. This way I ensured I was sending the right hose to the right destination.

You will likely have to trim the hoses once the tank is reattached as they are slightly long. Be sure

As advised by the forum just replaced the defrost heater assembly now the refrigerator works perfect. did not have to replace the thermostat.
My nephew had exactly same problem on ge refrigerator - replaced the defrost heater assembly and the problem is solved. Just remove the back panel in the freezer compartment, disconnect the cable, remove the nuts and replace the assemble. It is very simple. Bought both assembly from parts select.com - got next day delivery. they are great. would do business in future.

I had noticed water on the front left of the fridge on the floor.I thought it was the drain in the freezer so i poured hot water with baking soda into the drain but it didn't help..I pulled the fridge out and saw water dripping from the water valve solenoid.I searched the web for parts and found Parts select.com.I found the part quickly and they had pictures from all angles to assure me that it was the exact part which was great.The transaction on line was simple and the part came the next day.I will definitly use this sight again

Removed the ice bin and maker, then removed cover from the rear that covered the solenoid that controls the dispensing mechanism. Replace solenoid. The tricky part here is that there is a styrofoam cover around the solenoid pin that needs to be superglued into place and oriented properly during replacement. All electrical feeds snap out neatly and are easily replaced. Reassemble ice dispenser and bin, and viola, your back in business.

Because of the age of the refrigerator, I was unable to find original water filter replacements. I found an adaptor through PartSelect, ordered and received it within 3 days. I was then able to find a replacement filter to work for my appliance. It was easy to install. The Adaptor snapped into the port where the old filter went and the new filter screwed into the adaptor...Water / Ice system is working like new again.

Thanx
Joel

There were not two screws as the instructions said. There was only one screw and I had to firmly pull it out after taking out the one screw. Then, to put the new one in, I had to line up two slots on two knob-like things and push it in firmly. Then screw the one screw in.

Other than the two-screw problem, it was easy.

The replacement ice maker that GE supplies for my old refrigerator is a little different than the original. The electrical plug changed from a round plug to a square one. They include an adapter for it, but DON'T USE IT. There's not enough room for the bulky cord and connector. I got a much cleaner installation by taking apart the old and the new ice maker, and then splicing in the old connector into the new ice maker. You need to carefully unscrew a circuit board inside to wire it in, and it'll be more secure if you solider 3 wires instead of using crimp connectors. The instructions also tell you to use your old 'ice breaker', but it won't fit on the new ice maker. I just left the new ice maker's ice breaker on, and it seems to work perfect.

Unplugged frig. Turned off water supply to pump. Removed black cardboard covering on back of frig with nut driver (6 screws).

Took digital photo of assembly to confirm reassembly position.

Removed copper waterline to pump with adjustable wrench. Removed 1 screw holding pump assembly to refrigerator. Pulled assembly out of the frig. Unscrewed two small black screws on a second bracket. Pulled old pump further out of frig. Unplugged two connectors. Removed plastic waterline from pump by turning hose counter-clockwise and gently pulling.

Inserted plastic water line into new pump by turning line in clockwise and it pushing into orange plastic stop. Reconnected two electrical connectors. Reconnected bracket to pump with two small black screws. Gently pushed assembly back into the frig and reconnected pump assembly to the frig with 1 screw. Reconnected copper water line to pump first wrapping threads on pump with Teflon plumbers tape.

Turned on water to check for leaks. Installed cardboard back on frig with 6 screws. Plugged in frig.

NOTE. My new pump assembly had the electrical connectors reversed. Take care to pair up the correct colored connectors.

Unplugged refrigerator from electrical outlet for safety and turned off water supply valve. Removed the four metal screws that hold the access cover on the rear of the refrigerator. Then removed single metal screw attaching water valve and bracket assembly. Unplugged wire harness from the water valve and assembly then pressed down on colored o-rings to detach the four plastic water lines from the water valves. Used open end wrench to disconnect main water supply line from the water valve.
Pressed down on colored O-rings to install the four plastic water lines to new water valve and bracket assembly. Wrapped plumbing tape on threads of inlet valve and and used open end wrench to attach main water supply line to new water valve and bracket assembly. Attached wiring harness to new water valve and bracket assembly. Mounted new assembly to refrigerator with single metal screw. Turned on water supply valve and checked for leaks. Plugged in refrigerator to electrical outlet and tested water dispenser. Replaced access cover on rear of refrigerator with four mounting screws.

Frig and freezer were defrosting and refreezing other than normal. Home warranty contractor told me ice maker was faulty. Purchased new ice maker. Unplugged frig, loosened 2 screws with nut driver. unplugged old ice maker, lifted old ice maker out. Took old fill cup off old unit and put on new unit since new fill cup was a different size. Swapped ice maker insert from old to new unit. Plugged in new ice maker, slid over the 2 screws, tightened, and plugged in frig power. New ice maker works fine but still have defrosting and refreezing problem. Figure old ice maker probably works just fine. New contractor still trying to solve problem. Have had problems with this GE Monagram keeping proper temps since it was new in 2005, don't recommend it.

Removed the face plate this just gets popped off. removed the four screws to release the unit. unplugged the wiring harness, removed the two screws that hold the bracket in place that the control unit is housed in. Slid the old unit out and replaced with the new unit. installed the bracket over the control unit put two screws back, plugged the wiring harness's back in. Slid the whole unit back in replaced the four screws and put the face plate back on. Very Easy.

I had to completely disassemble the ice bucket (dispenser) to gain access to the parts that were being replaced.
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It was helpful to have the exploded parts diagram to aide in reassembling the ice dispenser when replacing the parts.

Remove freezer contents, shelves, and interior back-panel. Melt all ice on freezer coolang coil with hair dryer. Be careful not to touch to coling fins on the coils with the hair dryeer since they damage easily. Unplug the old heater coil wire harness at the top of the coils. Gently remove the thermocouple clipped to the top coil. Gently remove the wires leading down to the heater coil at the bottom-back of the freezer. Remove the old heater by removing the two mounting screws. Install new heater by reversing the steps above.
Good luck.
Ps. When the heater coil fails the result is, both the freezer and refridgerator sides get warm and food spoils. A good indicator to watch for is frost building up in the freezer on the interior back-panel. I taped cheap thermometers in both side to help mointor the temperature in case it happens again.