TFJ20JADAAA General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I took the glass plate off the top of the drawer, then removed the draw. I then removed the two screws holding the slide rail. I put the new slide rail in place, put the screws back in it, slide the drawer back in place and replaced the glass top. nothing to it.

I watched the video online, followed the instructions and within minutes had the part installed. The frig light was working once again! I will say the original switch was very snug and I had to do some very minor scraping of the plastic to get the new part to slide in.

I called the repair tech who obviously did not want to come out, thank god. He told me to remove the back panel of the freezer and also check fan on back side. Told him there was alot of ice on freezer condenser and he advised that defrost heater was probably shot, and referred me to partselect.com. I unplugged the frig/freezerer, and removed the heater and saw it was blackened and cooked. I used a hairdryer to thaw the condenser, and the new part arrived the next day. I reattached the 2 plugs, 2 screws, and put the back panel of the freezer back on. I plugged the appliance back in, checked it 6 hours later and the frig is cold again. It was a VERY easy repair and took less than 30 minutes from start to finish. I was quoted between $40-$78 for the part at 3 different places in the phone book, which would have also required a 45 minute drive. I got it here for $38 including shipping and it arrived in 24 hours !
With the "blow-up view" appliance feature on this web-site, and simply being guided to the correct part by entering the model number, it was a very easy ordering process and repair.

By the time this failure (failed defroster heating element) is evident (top of freezer starts thawing), the entire freezer coil is encased in a block of ice & frost is visble on the back freezer panel.
Empty the freezer & unplug (or turn circuit breaker off) then remove all racks and the light bulb then remove the two lower drawer guides using a phillips srewdriver (2 scrwes each). Use a 1/4" nutdriver to remove the two panel screws on either side of the light bulb socket and pull the panel out, unclip the green grounging wire and set panel aside. this exposes the freezer evaporator coil which is probably encased in ice. If so, use a heat gun or hair dryer to melt the ice away. This takes a half hour of heat application and a bowl or other catchpan should be placed under the coil to remove some of the resulting melting runoff so the evap. pan under the fridg/freezer unit won't be overwhelmed with the excess water.
Replacing the defrost heater & bracket assembly itself is just a matter of removing two phillips screws on either side of the bracket assembly, pulling the bracket free and then uncliping the two electrical terminals. Clip in the new unit to the eletrical terminals & replace the screws, reinstall the rear panel (don't forget to reconnect the ground wire), install the drawer backets, light bulb, shelves and drawer & reapply power. Replacing the bracket itself w/o the defrost proceedure takes about 15 minutes.

Note: If this symptom occurs and is diagnosed (the heater tube will be black and electrically read as "open" using an ohmmeter) and you cannot get the heater assembly & bracket assembly immediately, you can use the heat gun (hairdryer) manual defrost proceedure noted above to get the the unit running while you await the parts arrival. I used the manual defrost procedure and there was just some moderate frost on the coils after five days when I was able to install the replacement part.

i unplugged the fridge, first i removed the racks, then unhooked the grounding clip. the i tool off two 1/4 nut screws holding the backplate. then i used my wifes hair dryer to thaw out the ice. after it thawed out i unscrewed the element bracket which is secured by two philips screw. after taking the screws off, its just unplug one end at a time and plug it to the new one to avoid confusion. then reverse install to put back together.

Removed cover in freezer over evaporator,unbolted element ,plugged ,and replaced, very simple. Should be first thing checked when theres a problem.

This is such an easy fix!
1-Unplugging the fridge and emptyi it. Remove all shelves.
2-remove the 2 screws at the top of the back panel with a 1/4 inch nutdriver. You'll have to tilt ithis panel forward and sideways to get it out.
3- DO NOT CHIP AT THR ICE COVERING THE COOLING COILS? Replace one shelf and rest a hair dryer on low heat on the shelf.. Plug the drain hole at the bottom with a rag so all the melted ice water doesn't flood the floor under the fridge. Soak up the water with a rag and bucket- this should take 20-30 minutes.
4-Remove the red and blue power cables from the element. Only 2 philips head screws hold the defrosting element in place. Once it's out you can tell it's burned out because it looks black like a burned out lightbulb.
4-Plug in the red and blue power cables to the new unit. You will need to reroute the blue power cable because the new unit has both power connections on the same end.
5-Replace the cover panel by sliding it in at an angle and replace the 1/4 inch screws.
6-Replace the shelves and plug in the fridge.
That's it!

The most difficult part of the repair was the melting of the ice and preparation. I did change a single element heater for a dual element heater, which required a little manual flexing of the sub-frame, but it assembled with little issue. I was lucky, I did not have to splice the extended harness connection. Rerouting my existing gave sufficent length.
Not sure if the single elements were changed for dual, but it did have the same PN as the unit I replaced.

It seems my refrigerator was old enough [1987] that the spacing on the holes for the bracket were different than the part that is currently sold. The holes on the new bracket were 30 mm apart on center, but on the old bracket they were 20 mm apart on center.

Clamped the old and new brackets together in a vise to use the old bracket for spacing and drilled a new hole through the 4mm of steel.

After which it was a snap installing the new hinge assembly.

Had some knowledge of freezers and located Parts Select Web Site. Excellent advice and illustrations. Took four days to determine fault, locate part, order, receive and repair. Price was very reasonable and response was more than acceptable.

Good Job Parts Select.

1. Found Compressor and coils obstructed by
heavy dust: Cleaned
Re: No change

2. Check defrost timer for recycle. Good

3. Defrost freezer and initialize
Re:No Change

4. Check heater by setting timer for defrost:
Re: Not heating. Disassembled assembly and
found heater burned with open coil.

Located parts on web site exactly as depicted, Ordered part and Parts select did all the rest very responsively. Recieved the part in just over two business days. Fridge has been operating fine since.

Better than any service man.

I had this problem before and I knew it was related to the heater located in the freezer section. With the help of the drawings in the parts selct webpage I was able to identify the part I needed within 5 minutes. I ordered the part abd in 3 days I had it delivered.
I followed the instructions that came with the part step by step and I got my refrigerator up mand running in about 45 minutes.

Removed panel, then removed single coil unit and replaced it with double coil unit that was sent to me. Refrigerator now working fine.

Considering that I am a woman who knows nothing about repairing or let alone anything about refridgerator parts etc.... It was very easy.

First I went on line to see if I could even figure out what may be the problem with my refridgerator. After hearing similar stories on this site I thought I would try to order a new heating element since it wasn't that expensive and hopefully save me lots in $$$ have a repair man come out.
I removed the shelves in the freezer portion and then removed the back panel. I had to wait for the freezer to defrost, then I removed the burned out heating element which is about 10 inches long and replaced it with a new one.
It was so simple and probably would have taken less time if I had the freezer already defrosted.
Now the refrigerator is working like new and I fixed it all by myself without the help of my husband!!!!

Well, first I googled the problem and the model and found my way pretty quick to you guys. I sent a note to Tom P., who confirmed that I was looking at the right things. Then I offloaded everything from the freezer and fridge to the RV fridge and chest freezer, unplugged it and used my hair dryer to melt the ice on back plate so I could remove it.

I removed the two small screws at the top of the back, below the icemaker and light bulb, and slid the back cover up and out. Since my coils were pretty heavily iced, it took about half an hour to melt enough that I could get the defrost heater out and check it for continuity, which it failed.

The replacement design is slightly different (2 heater coils vs 1 and connectors on one end), but functionally the same. When putting the new one in, you need to re-run the blue wire down the same side as the pink wire because the connectors are on one end. Mine was long enough to work, but they include a splice kit in case yours isn't.

It took me longer to get the cover back on than to replace the heater assembly! Everything is back to normal, had ice cubes within a couple of hours...
Thanks for your help!

Parts select sugested checking the freezer side on the side by side if there was frost on the back panel. I took the back panel off on the freezer side inside the freezer. I found that the freezer coils were full of ice.Had to use a hair dryer to melt all the ice. The heater element was bad on the bottom of the freezer. I ordered a new defrost element an installed in 40 minutes and is running fine.You can still use the refrigerator until the new part comes in if you melt off the coils.It will last about 2 weeks.