GBS20KBPAWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

the new board was more complicated than the old, however the install instructions seem to have anticipated this. It works for mow. thanks for inquiring'

Easy

On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.

The first and most important step was to diagnose the problem. To do this I found the Parts Select website and the part I thought was the problem. The previous repairs stories helped me to pin point the problem. The mother board came within a couple of days. All I had to do was take the back plate/guard off, unplug the connectors in the back, unclip the mother board and then do the reverse over again. The only problem was the ground wire. I had to take the one off that came with the part and switch it out with the old one, because it would not connect to my refrigerator. This was fairly simple and in about 30 min. I was done and had our refrigerator back. Luckily we had another in the garage as a back up so we didn't loose any food.

Thanks Parts Select

Very simple fix by replacing the mother board. Your "how to" video made the repair even easier. The appliance repair estimate was over $400. I saved over $200. I already recommended your site to several other people. Thanks for making it so easy

Found out via searches that the most likely failed part was the Main Control Board. A simple repair with basic tools and a HUGE savings. Thanks to everyone here for the posts.

PS - on my particular GE model PFS22SISBSS there was no need to cut any wires as per the instructions because the wires did not exist on this unit.

Removed the old frame replaced with new one

I easily removed the screws and then removed the board and took a picture so I would remember how to re-connect it. It was really easy and now my refrigerator is working great. If I can do it anyone can do it. My husband was amazed that I did it all by myself.

Moved fridge out from wall. Unplugged. Removed circuitboard cover 6 screws?). Replaced circuit board (showed burn spots on back side). Replaced cover and plugged back in.

Checked this website for symptoms described, found same descrip, ordered mainboard, changed out in less then 30 minutes, Frig working properly now. Follow the installation instructions carefully as this mainboard fits other frig's & depending on model some wires need to be cut on harness etc.

replaced the temperature sensor and the defrost thermostat a couple of weeks ago, but did not solve the problem. went ahead and replaced the main control board, and i'm back in business. thanks to the how-to video's at this web sight, the job was easy.

I found an online thread where someone else's fridge had similar symptoms as mine. 1.)Freezer would warm up to room temperature followed by the fridge. 2.)Compressor would not start once the freezer got above the set temperature. 3.)I would unplug the unit, wait a minute, & plug it back, but the compressor would only run for a few minutes. I removed the main control board and found that it appeared that one of the solders had shorted to the metal compartment that it is installed in. This connection, which was for the control board relay switch, was melted away and was not letting the board start the compressor when the temp. would rise. I ordered a new board which was delivered very quickly, installed it, and everything works fine now. Saved a lot of money over having someone else look at it or buying a new fridge. Changing the board was very easy since each connector has a different number of pins. It is imposible to plug them into the wrong spot.

I pulled the fridge out away from the wall, unplugged fridge, and found the panel that the main control board was behind. after comparing old board with the new i unpluged all of the connections unscrewed four screws and installed new board in reverse order. very simple..

Used 1/4 nut driver and drill to take off acc pnl. The repair amounted to unplugging several connectors, removing the old motherboard, installing the new board and reconnecting the wires. this solved the problem and the whole appliance seems to run better.

I ensured that the refrigerator was unplugged from the power, removed the main board enclosure cover, carefully unplugged the wiring connectors from the board, released the 4 plastic standoffs with needle nosed pliers by gently squeezing the ends and removed the board.
I placed the new Main Control Board on the standoffs, carefully re-connected the electrical connectors, ensuring that the plugs were mated correctly, replaced the board enclosure cover and powered up the refrigerator to verify operation of the compressor, fans and controls.
Once verified, I unplugged the refrigerator from the power, removed the access cover to the compressor and condenser and carefully cleaned all dust and lint from the back and underside of the refrigerator before replacing the cover and putting the refrigerator back into service.
The cleaning will improve the efficient operation of the refrigerator.