TFH24PRSAWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Thanks to the stories on PartSelect my wife and I knew what to expect. The biggest hassle was sawing off the rivet that's on the hinge on the refrigerator (my wife volunteered for that job). When we got everything back together the door worked a lot better, but still wouldn't close without a little push. In frustration and running out of time, we put the stuff back inside the refrigerator door and that did the trick! The weight was enough to allow the door to close on its own.

Removed front cover, removed rear cover careful to note position of spring assisted parts, used pliers to unscrew auger rod end cap, removed and soaked in Lime Away fixed and movable blades. Reassembled using diagram on website for guidance.

Removed ice dispenser trim from bottom-up and then removed control panel by gently pulling up from the bottom. Removed four screws holding dispenser chute and then two screws holing flapper assembly. Replaced gnarly old flapper with a new one and put all removed pieces back together.

Thought I would only need one when I looked at the picture of the parts. Decided to order two just in case and after taking it apart both were broken. Needed two.
Took the top door bracket off and lifted the door off of the bottom bracket. Re-assembled cams, put a little white grease on all moving parts, placed the door into bottom bracket and installed top bracket. Adjusted top bracket to make door line up with edge of refrigerator and all is well.

1. Unplug the fridge
2. Removed the outer facing of the dispenser outside the freezer door. This is fairly easy, better with a tool (plastic scraper) that won't mar the finish.
3. Removed the plastic plate with labels -- water, ice, etc. This is done by sliding a small jewelers screwdriver into the slots on the left, middle and right in back of the plate. These are difficult to see without a flashlight.
4. Removed the four screws in the panel behind this plate.
5. Unpluged the large cable on the left side after the panel is freed.
5. Removed the rubber "dispenser" button. this just pulls off.
6. Remove the panel
7. Lift flapper up and remove. Clips hold this in.
8. Put new flapper in place.
9. Use reverse order to put back together.
Piece of cake. Ice maker no longer frosts up.!!!!

Why don't they just tell you that you have to buy 2 cams. I have now replaced the cams on both doors. The other door broke about 4 years ago. Fortunately the first time I read the user commetns or I would've bought just one. It is a quick easy fix. The longest step is drilling out and replacing the rivet. Everything else is done with a nut driver.

I did not realize I needed 2 cams to complete repair. Door cam was riveted in. I had to drill out rivet and replace with nut and bolt. Otherwise it went quite sommothly. At first I just replaced the cam on bottom of refridgerator but door was not quite right when closing. Further inspection showed the door had the other half of cam that also needed replacement. Needed 2 orders. Paid for 2 shippings.

Removed refrigerator door and replaced bottom door pivot with the included mating cam and the door closing cam on the bottom of the door.

I didn't know that there were two mating cams and only ordered the door closing cam which I read online was the problem. It was the number one part on the part select list. The number two part was a kit including the door closing cam and the pivot with mating cam attached. It would have been helpful if there had been some notes that said check condition of both cams before ordering the part. So I have a spare door closing cam and paid an extra $19 including $8 shipping which negated a return.

The repair is easy - getting the right parts the first time is the trick.

Followed previous poster's steps. Replacement of door closing cams took 35 minutes. Make sure you buy 2 cams for each door.

Replaced the old cams with new ones, door works perfect now.

removed the door, installed the cam riser, and reattached the door. It took longer to remove the contents in the door than it did to install the cam riser.

The old plastic door closer cam on bottom of the the door had broken. What was left of it was held on by a hex head screw. There was also a fiber spacer under the cam that was broken. I made a new one out of a piece of aluminum, but cardboard probably would have worked.

Forgot to mention you have to take the door off first--loosen the two screws on the top hinge and lift the door out of the bottom hinge.

I found the self-closing sometimes won't work well until there is some weight in the door.

I Supported the door with wood blocks. Then used a socket wrench to remove both parts of the lower hinge. I had purchased 2 of these plastic closers as recommended. One of them must be cut off with a Dremel Tool or small grinder. A small bolt and nut replaces the rivet that was cut off. Reinstall it just as it was removed. Job complete.
Parts were delivered on time, web site instructions were excellent. I highly recommend PartSelect.com

Before disassembling the parts need to replace, I use my digital camera to get all the different angle of the item so I have the full reference to asswmble the new one

completely removed door, then replaced worn-out cam on bottom of door-simple enough; then removed hinge from bottom of refrigerator; removing old cam required drilling out the rivet that fastened cam to hinge; secured new cam to hinge with small machine screw and nut. This procedure is relatively easy but does require minor mechanical ability and having a small drill and bit set. However, replacing the two cams totally fixed the problem.