TFJ22PRXBAA General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Pulled ice tub, removed auger rotation motor and solenoid housing, removed solenoid and replaced with new one and reinstalled. Checked solenoid was working by holding freezer door open and closing switch to door an activating ice switch-- solenoid picked up. Put ice tub with auger back into freezer.

1. Use skewer to press plastic tabs under control panel, 2. Remove control panel and unplug solenoid, 3. Unscrew dispenser assembly and solenoid screws, 4. Press in tabs on lamp and remove assembly - unplug, 5. Replace lamp assembly, 6. Replace solenoid assembly and fasten screws, 7. Replace flapper. 8. Replace other parts in reverse order.

son did the work BUT ONLY AFTER- trying to order the part from Sears parts online, in which they never from the right part and i spent 1 and 1/2 hours on chat and finally gave up. THEN i called sears replair, made appointment for two weeks later requesting 1st repair time of the day, was asured the repair would take place between 8-12 and beacuse it was 2 weeks away it should be the 1st repair. The day of the appt I received a phone call at 11:38 saying they would be here about 12:20, I SAID NO THANK YOU< OUR AGREEMENT WAS BY 12:00. THen I got online typrd in water tank your company come up, showed photo, and price which i ordered it can in my son fixed it and all was complete within an hr.

The video to replace the flapper looks easy, howerer the first step is to remove thestic cover of the icemaker. In my refrigerator model (as oposed to teh one shown n teh video) teh coved if firmly attached and goes under the refrigerator external plate so I was never abel to take it oot (so step 1 failed).
I was able to replace the flapper TROUGH the whole whre te ice comes from! this took lots of patients and someone with small hands!

Easy

Thanks to the stories on PartSelect my wife and I knew what to expect. The biggest hassle was sawing off the rivet that's on the hinge on the refrigerator (my wife volunteered for that job). When we got everything back together the door worked a lot better, but still wouldn't close without a little push. In frustration and running out of time, we put the stuff back inside the refrigerator door and that did the trick! The weight was enough to allow the door to close on its own.

Replaced dispenser flapper

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

First, I had to remove the face plate where the ice and water was dispensed remove 4 screws holding the electrical circuits, disconnect circuits ,remove 2 screws holding soleniod and one screw holdin crank assembly. repace parts and screws.

I used a block of wood to hold up the door. Then unbolted the lower hinge from the fridge. That is when I found out that it was fine and it was the upper half of the hinge that was broken (worn).
So I unbolted the upper hinge (mounted on the bottom of door) It uses the same part. So I installed the part on the upper half of the hinge.

I wish somebody would have told me that you need 2 of these for each hinge. The bottom one was in good shape, lucky for me.

There was what seemed to be a half chewed up washer under the refig. door. The door wasn't closing all the way. DING!! Something was wrong!!

I looked up your schematic for the refrig door and decided what piece might have broken. It was a good guess and the part showed up a few days later.

I wedged up the refrig door to take the tension off the lower bracket. Then, just took off the bracket and replaced the broken door closing cam.

Determined that the little door that opens to allow full size cubes to fall was not opening. If you open freezer door, hold door switch in, select cubes and push in the lever that the glass pushes in you should hear the solenoid lift open which opens the little door. Mine was doing nothing. Removed ice bin and then removed icemaker motor/solenoid section from back of freezer by disconnecting two wire harnesses and one screw. Found that solenoid smelled burnt and could see that inside of the solenoid was swollen out of round and burnt. Simple to replace.

Removed the top cover using a Phillips screw driver to access the top 2 screws holding the bracket. Once the bracket was removed, lifted the door off the bottom hinge. Replaced the door closing cam, replaced shims and screws. Placed the door back on the bottom hinge, inserted the top bracket and secured.
This was the ultimate resolution to the problem. The problem I encountered was getting all of the correct parts. It took me 3 tries to finally identify and receive the parts needed to make the repairs. Using Part Select made it easy because they had the parts I needed. My 3 tries were partly my error and does not reflect on Part Select. I would recommend others use Part Select when choosing their replacement parts.

1st: Order (2) closing cams! One for the hinge pin / bracket and one for the bottom of the door.
The closing cam on the door was where the Dremel type tool is required, since you have to grind the head off of a factory rivet.
I installed the cam with an aluminum pop rivet.
Next, remove the bracket on the bottom of the door with sockets and install the second closing cam.
Re-attach the top door hinge pin and align visually; tighen all bolts. Job finished, but more important , my wife is not nagging me about the repair that I put off for over a year!!!!

My wife and I gave an old, but really good refergerator to our son (a Major in the Army). Upon taking it into his house he had to remove the doors of the refergerator. While he put the doors he lost the "cam" for the door, making if difficult to close (actually had to lift the door up and then close it). I ordered the replacement part, and unless I am mistaken, it arrived the same day. I still cannot figure out how this happened, but it was great!!