PSH25MSWASV General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Take off all , then install.. following the version..

Freezer section defroster heater was inoperative.
turned off the refrigerator by turning the right knob in top rear refrigerator to 0.

Used hose on a vacuum sweeper blower side to feed warm air into the bottom rear section. Removed the top plastic panel behind the ice maker to allow air flow to exit through the fan to defrost the freezer coils.

Placed a flat oven pan into the area beside the vacuum hose and sponged up the melted frost water. After 30 minutes, water ceased to drain.

Removed freezer shelves, and 5 screws on rear freezer wall. It took about 2 minutes to remove the heater & braw assembly at the bottom of the coils. 2 screws have to be removed and wires just clip off and back on again. Replaced the 2 screws.

Replace rear coil wall cover and turn on the refrigerator to 5 to 7 and replace cover and shelves.

I used the video Parts Select referenced on YouTube, which showed a technician doing the repair. In my particular instance I did not need to remove the escutcheon around the dispenser using a putty knife or remove screws from underneath. There are two tabs in lieu of the two screws that I used a Phillips screwdriver on to push in which released the control panel. It went just as the video showed w/o a hitch. I'd like to add that this is the second time I've used Parts Select for a different appliance and thank God for their showing you what the part looks like and the videos, it helps bolster your confidence to do the repair correctly! I only wish there was more sites like this.

I disassymbled the cover bucket bottom from the bucket ice dispenser then found that the auger helix dispenser had broke thru the bucket. It seems the auger nut got cross threaded, this provided a problem to remove the auger. the only way to remove because the nut was wedged was to cut thru the bucket to the auger. The easy part was replacing the cup drive which was the problem along with the auger nut.

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.

I followed the instructions on your website. I pulled out the old drive cup and installed the new one. To my regret, I must have broken something in the main ice dispenser during the installation since it would not work. I then ordered a new bin with everything already assembled. I should have done this from the start. Now everthing works just fine.

after replacing the door seal, I couldn't get the new seal to close and stay closed, so I replaced the closing arm and spring. The door will close now but not tightly and it's loosing cold air. So I made and patented a wooden block to put behind the freezer door handle and the refrigerator door handle to keep the doors closed. Available in black, white and natural tan. (just kidding about the patented part, but not the block)

remove the front plate. use screwdriver to pry the cover off from the bottom of the cover, remove the wiring from the front cover.remove the 4 screws and pull out the shute. remove three screws from the solonide and replace . very easy fix. save yourself $100.00 labor.

I went to the internet and found parts select web site. Saw all of the possible fixes for my problem and read all of the other repair stories. My story actually became a journey that is still continuing. I first changed the water filter, but still no water at the dispenser. I next disconnected the coupling at the bottom of the freezer door that carries water to the dispenser and when the dispenser was depressed, water flowed at the coupling, but not at the dispenser. After reconnecting the coupling, I turned the freezer setting to 1 for 4-5 days, but still no water at the dispenser (possibly the line was frozen, but we had recently been away for a week and the water dispenser still supplied water at a freezer setting of 4). Now I am at the point of the journey into replacing parts one at a time to get water. First I ordered the dual water valve for the ice maker and water dispenser. I replaced this valve with instructions from Parts Select and still no water at dispenser. Next I ordered and replaced the switch at the dispenser lever and still no water. Next was the solenoid attached to the ice door, ordered, replaced and still no water at dispenser. I am now at the final part in this repair and that is the $132 circuit board. So I will be ordering this part soon and hopefully that will fix the issue.

I started by finding thw dispenser door part. On the parts diagram it showed all the other parts I might need to replace. Due to the age of the fridge I decided to replace them all, especially the sprIngs. I made sure to watch all of the videos for each part. Although they overlapped, each one showed the repair in more detail. The repair was as shown. If your frosge has been in service like mine for many years, plan on taking thw whole ice chute and dispenser door assembly out for thorough cleaning. One trick I learned is to take pictures as I disassemble so I can refer back for reassembly. When I put it together, the microswitch didn't work. I ordered that part, the only one I missed initially and installed it when it came in. Everything worked well. There was no video for the torsion spring and alignment of the chute and frame is tricky, make sure you take a picture. Part Select should dona video foe that. The putty knife trick for the trim ring was key. It was only shown in one video for an internal part so glad I watched them all.

Pulled ice box away from wall. Took lower cardboard cover off. Shut water line off. Got my volt meter and checked the current going from the wall to the plug in at the inverter (input side), and I had the required 115 volts. Then I unplugged the connection going to the compressor (not the plug at the compressor which you cannot see until you unbolt the inverter) but the output connection side that goes to compressor. I checked the voltage and had about 13 volts not the required 115 volts. Therefore, I came to the conclusion that the inverter was bad. I ordered one from Partselect and they shipped it right away. I installed it and the ice box is back up to running order.

There are three holes under the front panel in which you push a very small screwdriver in and the front panel comes off.In back of the panel is another panel with 4 screws .1 at each corner.Remove the 4 screws and that will come off exposing the working parts that need to be replaced.This is also a good time to clean anything you can get to in that area.It is very important to remember how everything came out.

1. Emptied the crisper pan,
2. Removed it from the refrigerator,
3. Flipped it upside down,
4. Removed the old one by pulling it off,
5. Replaced it with the new OEM part. and
6. Reversed the process.

Pulled the fridge away from the wall. Unplugged. Turned water supply off. Removed the bottom panel. One screw and a small hook holds the assembly on. Remove clips from the solenoids. Disconnected the main water supply line. Pushed up and held the clamp ring and pulled the water/ice maker supply lines out. Replaced everything in reverse order. Simple fix!

Very easy! Remove the ice bucket and replace with new one.