TFX27ZFSBAD General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Disassembled front door/cover (3 screws), then removed deflection door assy, (4 1/4" nuts), CArefully and methodically removed C Clip and grinder teeth...Be careful with this step to document/remeber how to re-assemble! Auger repleced then reverse steps...
All in all, not too bad, but you can easily screw up the teeth re-assembly.

I bought a Flapper replacement part from Parts Select. I installed it following their very complete on-line video directions. Their complete and easy to follow directions made my job very easy, and the work was completed without any problems and just as good as if it were done by a professional repair person. I am proud of my work, it couldn't have been done without their video insructions. Also I got delivery of the part within two days of my order. I will alway look for Parts Select any time I need an applicance repaired. Thanks to Parts Select!

First Remove the screw and cover from the left top front of the fridge using a Phillips Screw Driver # 2
Then using a nut driver 1/4 of inch (or Socket set)
remove the two nuts holding the door hinge keeping the door in closed position. Now unplug the electrical connector between the door and the fridge body(Simply pulling it apart) Now hold the door from the middle and raise it up so that it can slide out from the bottom hole, on the main body
Now place the door on a table or a flat surface(Put may be a sheet or some thing to prevent the finish from getting scratched) Now remove the nuts around the inner panel of the door(nut Driver or Socket set) Remove the old lining and discard .Install the new lines and then replace every thing in the reverse order.
Note : Before tighting the top nuts of the door, make sure you keep the door aligened so you would not have to do it after completeing the job.

Procedure for Replacing the Ice Chute Plate
1. Turn off the power.
2. Snap off the outside trim ring. Use a plastic screwdriver to avoid scratching the cabinet.
3. Locate the three small holes below the control panel facing, just above ice chute. The center hole is not used. With a small, blunt, object (wire – blunted nail) that is slightly smaller than the holes, push up rather firmly up through the outer holes to release front control panel.
4. Remove the three wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out of retaining clip. Use caution: Excessive force will break clips.
5. Release the secondary panel by removing four screws (one in each corner).
6. Remove the flap assembly.
7. Clean all accessible areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. Rinse the cleaned area with clear water and thoroughly dry everything before re-assembling the panel.
8. Install the new flap assembly.
9. Re-installed everything in the reverse order and check the functionality.
10. Order a spare ice chute flapper to be ready for the next event.

Found broken pieces of deflector in delivered ice. Removed dispenser, carefully disassembled it, marking fasteners, sprimgs, and levers. Local repaimen say no replacement part available, must replace entire ice maker @ $350. Found exact part in your online reference, ordered at price of $3.76, part arrived two days later--perfect fit, exactly same as original. Reassembled, and it works exactly like new. Family very happy. Good job!!!!!

Removed the face plate (4 screws) on the ice bucket/auger and put it on the new unit.

SUPER easy repair, taking about 5 minutes. After taking out the ice bin, I removed one small phillip's head screw, put the light shield in place, and tightened the screw.

I removed the 4 screws from the cover and replaced the auger and ice bucket assembly. Extremely simple and I was amazed how easy it was.

After bagging the ice in the old bin and rinsing out the new bin, I removed 4 screws that held the old ice bin facing/door frame to the old ice bin and the facing came right off. Then I just screwed the facing on the new ice bin, popped the new door into place, and put the new ice bin back into the freezer. Although web descriptions for the parts I ordered referenced GE and other appliance brands and not Kenmore at all, the search engine led me to these parts and everything fit perfectly.

it was really easy now it works like it did when it was brand new

Took unit apart but did not take photos of how to put unit back together, so needless to say it took longer then it should have. My error. Ordering the part was very easy and within days the part arrived at my door. Should the need arise, I would order again from Part Select.com.

you must pay careful attention when taking the dispenser apart,especially the long rod that controls the deflector,but if close attention is payed to disassembly you should have no problem.

Disassembled ice-maker, noting what screws went where, what direction ice release control arm pointed, and noting how the control arm spring was mounted. The door assembly comes off first followed by the circular assembly that houses the ice door and last grinding arms. It is quite easy see how it comes apart as you look at the screws. Remove the screw holding the back end of the control arm and note the spring position. The control arm needs to be turned to line up notches to pull it thru a faceplate hole while rotating the arm about the "U" that is on the outside of the faceplate in the door housing. There is a retaining clip holding the rotating impeller to remove to complete the dis-assembly. Use vinegar to clean rust out of bin and other parts around the faceplate. Assemble the unit in the reverse order to complete the job.

After inspection of the new door recess assembly, I realized that I could use sidecutters (electronic assembly type) and 'clip' off the inward lock tabs of the old recess assembly and disengage it from the crank door arm without any further disassembly of the refrigerator door. It was easy to 'unhitch' the tang from the crank arm and wiggle it out through the external opening of the ice/water dispenser compartment. I reversed the process and inserted the new assembly through the external opening of the compartment. The new door recess assembly snapped into place on the crank arm and fit tightly against the ice chute opening, correcting the issue caused by aging distortion of the old rubber seal cup portion of the door recess assembly.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.