ZICP360SRDSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Other than having to bend the bracket 90 degrees it was an easy install.

After determining that the ice maker on this relatively new refrigerator would make ice cubes if it received the proper amount of water. Ordered the valve and received in a couple days. Using a nut driver, removed the cardboard cover from the back of the refrigerator. Removed one screw holding the valve bracket to the fridge and removed another screw holding the water supply line and the water line to the ice maker in place. Pulled plug on fridge and removed 2 wires from valve. Removed inlet and outlet lines from old valve and reversed the process installing the new valve.

Replaced evaporator fan motor, and this solved the whistling noise that had developed. Reviewed and followed the removal and installation instruction video as closely as possible. This was very helpful, with a few additions. For the model PS123NGPBBB GE refrigerator/freezer, there were a few differences from the video. There a was an additional cover panel that was positioned vertically at the back of the freezer compartment below the auger motor assembly. It was necessary to remove this cover (4 screws) to gain access to the auger motor cover screws. The unit also has a different light configuration with 2 lights. I found it helpful to remove these light bulbs and the corresponding light fixtures in order to remove the evaporator motor assembly. As mentioned in the video, it was necessary to cut the 4 wires from the wire harness of the new motor, and use butt end connectors to reattach these wires to the corresponding wires in the unit. Total job took between 1 and 2 hours, and the motor change solved the noise problem.

Did the repair just as the instruction said, once I read it. The part I didn't read was that if the plug was under the ice maker, you had to take the wire out of the clip on the side. So, had to dismount ice maker, unclip wire, remount maker, plug it in. Still under 30 minutes. Thank you.

thats what I did is remove the teo screws and took the old single outlet valve out. And put the new one in and put the screws back in. First turned off the water and put the water back on after I was threw and no leaks.

Installation could not have been easier!

unplugged the old valve and disconnected the water line, then reconnected water line on new valve and plugged it in. It was an easy process but unfortunately that did not fix the problem. It is the ice maker it self so I will be ordering a replacement ice maker.

I'm not a DIY-er, and wasn't sure a 20 year old refrigerator was worth the repair, but for $30 I could afford to be wrong. The swap is pretty intuitive, especially in my case since the problem was that the water tube from the valve to the ice maker had detached from the coupling. So I didn't have to cut anything off, just inserted the tube into the new valve. Reconnected the supply line, screwed the assembly back on the refer, and Bob's your uncle. Other than unloading some canned goods to lighten the refer, longest process was finding the right size nut driver in my disorganized tool tray. Be aware, there are NO instructions included with the part. Found a good video on you tube that confirmed the obvious. Glad I took a shot!

Removed the old water valve from back of refrigerator by using a screwdriver. Pulled water line off old valve that runs into the fridge and inserted it into the new part. I used a pair of pliers to take off water line that runs into the water valve from the house. Screwed the water line back onto the new valve. Took about 10 minutes.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Moved stuff out of my way on the top shelf, reached in and turned old filter to remove. Filled new filter with water, lined up and turned to lock in place. Whew, never thought I would get that job done. :-)

Remove the rear cover, shut off the water, removed the hose, unplugged the electrical connector, removed the screw holding the valve on. Removed the plastic tube going into the freezer and reversed the steps

I loosened the compression nut on the valve with my fingers and pulled the water line free from the valve. On the other end, I just pulled it from the hose clamp. Installation in reverse. Force the water line into the fitting on top, Slide the old nut over the line on the bottom. Screw the nut onto the valve. Reach inside the freezer and turn on the ice maker. Done. Before replacing the cardboard grill, you should vacuum the coils on the bottom, front and back. If practical, push it outside and blow it out with an air compressor or a leaf blower.

First I removed the electrical plug from the back of the freezer that plugs into the icemaker. I then removed the two hex head screws that hold the icemaker to the wall of the freezer and removed the icemaker. I removed the plastic cover, which incidentally protects the gears, by prying it off with a srewdriver. I removed three small nuts(7mm) which holds the internal cam in place. I removed the cam by pulling it off the shaft. Once I got the part from you folks I reversed the procedure that I just mentioned, and put the icemaker back together. It works great. The part with shipping was around $16.00. A new icemaker was roughly $159.00. If I would have called a technician it would have cost around $300.00 to repair.

Three easy steps, take off old part then all you do is tighten nut on one end of part and then just push other end of pipe down in slot. Did half to remove nut off the top end of tube very simple to do