GTS22UBMARBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

After reading this forum and other searches, I assumed replacing the board may solve my problem. Unscrewed the back plate, used pliers to pull out the connectors, squeezed in the sides of the 4 plastic white board holders to release the board, and then replaced old board with the new one and reconnected connectors. (My model was not one of the mentioned models for cutting the 2nd pin of the J1 connector, so I left it in.) Upon plugging my frig back in, it began working perfectly again. So thankful to have found this forum!

Removed the board cover from the back, removed old board, installed new board, installed cover.

Removed back cover from unit. unpluged wirring harness installed new control board and refigerator runs lik new

Part arrived 2 days before anticipated. I was able to keep my fridge running long enough to get the new part in, which took no time at all. The Main Board relay would start clicking and the compressor would shut down. By unplugging the top right plug for a minute and plugging it back in I was able to keep it running for a few hours at a time. Good enough to keep my food from going bad. Thr part was an easy plug in replacement, was a good price, and works great.

Removed main control board cover on back of refrigerator (3 screws). Unplugged power to refrigerator and removed electrical connections to control board using a screwdriver. Using a screwdriver disconnected (4) plastic self -locking prongs holding the board. Matched new replacement board with old board. Plugged in electrical connections to new board. Snapped main control board onto (4) self- locking prongs. Reinstalled cover (3) screws. Plugged in refrigerator and tested refrigerator operation.

Remove back panel to expose the control board. Simply unplug cables from old board and pull the board out, no tools required. Put new board in place and replace the cables. Very easy.

Removed and replaced control board

Replaced evaporator fan motor, and this solved the whistling noise that had developed. Reviewed and followed the removal and installation instruction video as closely as possible. This was very helpful, with a few additions. For the model PS123NGPBBB GE refrigerator/freezer, there were a few differences from the video. There a was an additional cover panel that was positioned vertically at the back of the freezer compartment below the auger motor assembly. It was necessary to remove this cover (4 screws) to gain access to the auger motor cover screws. The unit also has a different light configuration with 2 lights. I found it helpful to remove these light bulbs and the corresponding light fixtures in order to remove the evaporator motor assembly. As mentioned in the video, it was necessary to cut the 4 wires from the wire harness of the new motor, and use butt end connectors to reattach these wires to the corresponding wires in the unit. Total job took between 1 and 2 hours, and the motor change solved the noise problem.

First I removed the ice tray rack lifting it out of the way to reach the back cover of the fan. Then, the whole back inside panel had to be removed. Two screws removed the fan and bracket from the freezer unit. The missing bumper lid just snapped into place. Replaced everything in reverse order. Pretty easy job.

Had friend assist in pulling fridge out from it's area so that I could access back. Unplugged unit. For the bottom freezer units (mine) the compartment containing the main control board is middle of the fridge and on the left. Took off the protective metal plate and then followed the video demonstrating the repair. One other discrepancy between the video and the instructions that came with the new main control board, is that the instructions suggested locating and cutting some other green wire to the compressor unit. I chose not to do that, as the unit was otherwise working fine as is prior to my main control board going south.

Turned off the breaker to the fridge because I couldn't reach the power plug to unplug it . Use small flat head screwdriver to pop out the piece, disconnected the rubber prong connectors, inserted the new piece into the rubber prongs snapped it back into place. Flipped the breaker back on and prayed it worked. It did and I saved myself $120 service call.

1. Pulled refrigerator out
2. Unpluged the refrigerator
3. Removed the three screws holding the cover on.
4. Removed Board ASM Main Control.
5. Unpluged Connector's.
6. Pluged Connector's in to new Board ASM Main Control.
7. Put cover back on.
8. Pluged refrigerator back in.
9. Pushed refrigerator back into place.

Removed 2 screws and removed the old slide. Installed new slide and 2 screws . Done.

replaced main board.

Tom Paone at quality@applianceeducator.com. was very helpful at recommending that a solution to my problem was to replace the ASM Main Domestic Motherboard. I ordered and received the board in two days from PartSelect. After unplugging the refrigerator I used a nut driver to remove the three screws that held the motherboard cover in place and then disconnected all of the connections to the board. Next, using a pair of needle nose pliers, I gently squeezed on the white plastic anchor retainers that fastened the motherboard to the refrigerator. While doing this at each anchor I gently pulled on the motherboard until it was separated from the retainer anchor post. There were four retainers total. I removed the old board and in the reverse order installed the new board. All of the connectors were easy to match to the new board because the wiring connectors coming out of the back of the refrigerator were only long enough to hook to the correct connectors on the circuit board. There was an extra connector that I didn't use on the new board and also the connection for the ground wire used a ring connector instead of a spade connector. To remedy this I simply used the ground wire assembly from my old board. I also took the time to remove the lower cover on my refrigerator and cleaned the condensing coil with a vacuum cleaner. The total time to replace the motherboard and clean the condensing coil was about 20 minutes from start to finish. This repair solved the problem with my evaporator fan. A big thanks to Tom Paone at quality@applianceeducator.com. for helping diagnosis my problem and suggesting the correct replacement part. I saved between $100.00 to $150.00 not having to call out an appliance repair person to fix my refrigerator.