TFG20JRBKWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Replaced flapper. Followed the video. The lamp caused the removable plastic bracket (which supports the control panel and the ice chute) to fuse with the plastic frame in the door. Eventually broke the fused plastic, removed the bracket, and filed the rough broken plastic before reassembly.

the previous left behind a side by side, everything worked however the auger in the ice bucket was a little rusty. I wish that I could say it was all me but the truth of the matter was the videos on file.

They were nicely done and easy to follow as I took the unit apart and replaced the auger in about 30 minutes. Thanks for all your help in part look up.

Part attaches to metal plate near crushing fingers which attaches to ice holding bin. Remove about 6 screws total on each side of plate. You must disassemble the auger & other parts so you can reassemble it in the proper order. Not many parts but i always take pics to cut down on time. New part is at the other end of the auger and acts as the holde of the auger shaft. Picture a crankshaft with a bearing on each end so the auger rotates between new part and the other end of auger shaft. That's it.

Unplugged the refrigerator then used the cordless drill to remove the 6 screws on the access panel on the back of the fridge to be able to get to the fan. Was able to pull the fan off by hand and push the new fan on by hand. Plugged the refrigerator by in and watched the fan run for a few minutes then replaced the access panel. Really quick and easy repair.

Followed the online video. Unplugged refrigerator, removed trim piece, lifted control board cover, removed 4 screws retaining circuit control board and removed the 3 connectors from the control board. Located flapper and removed by using small flat tip to take tension off flapper connectors. Helper held flash light to illuminate flapper connectors. Reversed procedure. New flapper seals well and cured problems. Circuit board was a bit different than one in video, but still had the 3 connectors. Marked each connector with grease pencil at top edge to ensure correct reconnection. Should note how wires are threaded around circuit board to ensure they are tucked back in correctly in reassembly. Remove trim piece carefully. I broke 2 of the 8 plastic pins that hold trim on. May be due to age of unit as they were brittle. 6 pins still hold trim piece flush.

First I placed a 2x4 under the frig door to keep it in place while I removed the hinge on the bottom of the door. I removed two screws holding the hinge and one screw holding the washer in place. I also loosened a screw adjacent to the washer so that I could more easily remove and replace the washer. The parts went in easily. The repair took much less time than I anticipated.

Remove front cover did not remove wires remove ice and water unit took off flapper put new one on 5 minutes back together

Use small putty knife to cut internal sealant on ice maker door trim piece. Then you can easily remove it.

Opened, discovered not flapper but more complicated

Had to defrost the freezer to melt off all the ice before servicing. Once that was done the icemaker replacement only took about 15-30 minutes to complete. The new icemaker came with many accessories and adaptors that were not needed and the instructions were based on replacing an older model and not really clear for my model. They mentioned not being able to use the new stripper but it was exactly the same as the old one so I left the new one in place. All in all it was easy and did the job.

unplug refrigerator. Remove Ice bin then remove the cover off the ice maker,(slides off from bottom then lift off top) no reason to remove ice maker completely. Remove center gear screw and remove main gear from Ejector blade. remove (3) screws holding the front plate. The motor and switches are attached to this plate from behind, do not remove the nut from the from the stud that adjusts the travel for the motor. The Motor and switches will come upt with the plate and the shut off arm will come out of a hole in the top right. Its ok just be careful when you put it back to get it in the hole. remove the old cam and replace it wint the new one and reassemble. Its a bit tricky to get all of the microswitches over the new cam just carefully wiggle the plate and cam and don't push too hard. once everything is lined up it should go back together and you can replace the screws and main gear :)

Look at various pertenant DYI articles and videos on the internet. Replaced water filter with bypass plug. Checked water flow to icemaker water solenoid. Ran icemaker diagnostic test which failed. Ordered replacement. On receipt of replacement, began replacement work. To wit: Pulled fiidge from wall and unplugged. (Not necessary to shut water off.) Removed small freezer basket. Unloaded main freezer basket, removed it then removed the freezer door. (A screw on each side bolts the door rail of the chassis slide to the freezer chassis slide.) Loosened screws on rear, top of partition between icemaker and small freezer basket. Pushed up on partition front and popped out U-bar supporting partition bottom being carefull not to bend it. Removed same. Removed screws from partition and set aside. Removed grilled "thingy" between rear of icemaker and partition. Now have access to icemaker screws. Loosened the screws, pushed up and out and carefully let it hang by it's connector. Fiddled with the connector locking tabs and finally got it loose. Compared old and new icemaker. Have to keep the old water funnel. The new wiring harness was stiff and the connector had a different orientation. Twisted both the wiring harness and connector to align connector while the icemaker hung by it's cable being careful not to let the icemaer slip and fall to the bottom. After much fiddling, got the connector inserted and locked. Set icemaker over the two screws, pulled it down and tightend the screws. Put the old funnel into the new unit being very careful to get it right the first time. Put grilled "thingy and the partition and U-bar back in, put door back on, put the ice cube bin back, freezer drawers bac and reloaded the frozen food, plugged fridge in. Done! Time to replace icemaker was about 20 minutes and another 2 hours to do the rest ofthe work. Still required only a nutdriver and phillips.

1. Use skewer to press plastic tabs under control panel, 2. Remove control panel and unplug solenoid, 3. Unscrew dispenser assembly and solenoid screws, 4. Press in tabs on lamp and remove assembly - unplug, 5. Replace lamp assembly, 6. Replace solenoid assembly and fasten screws, 7. Replace flapper. 8. Replace other parts in reverse order.

The video to replace the flapper looks easy, howerer the first step is to remove thestic cover of the icemaker. In my refrigerator model (as oposed to teh one shown n teh video) teh coved if firmly attached and goes under the refrigerator external plate so I was never abel to take it oot (so step 1 failed).
I was able to replace the flapper TROUGH the whole whre te ice comes from! this took lots of patients and someone with small hands!

Not really sure of the age of this fridge, as we bought the house 2.5 yrs ago.

I'm one who if it can go wrong, it will, so not realizing how stable the door was from just having the top hinge and the magentic gasket, I declined to prop the door up on blocks the way some guys say the did, and instead removed the top hinge and lifted the whole door off the bottom hinge. I traced the outline of all parts with a felt pen before removing them, figuring I'd need witness marks to help with realignment after the install.
Nut driver might've been an easier choice than the socket set, but the only ones I have a brittle and I've broken the 5/16"...
All parts came out/off easily. The new bottom hinge and the old top hinge (both on the fridge side) practically aligned itself right on my marks, and the new cam (door side) just needed to be held while the screws were tightened. I used the extensioni rod off the ratchet to drive the screws most of the way (making a nutdriver out of it).
Parts were exactly as advertised, although there was a note in the package that stressed the need to replace both parts at the same time due to material differences in the original and replacement parts. Since the cam is sold separately without the hinge, it would be good for the website to reflect that before the purchase is made. Also, even though it was only the cam on the hinge and not the whole hinge that needed to be replaced, I could've bought hte two cams separately and drilled out the rivet as another person had done, but for the $5 difference in cost, why bother?
Door now closes itself as designed, albeit slower than the freezer side, but the Wife says it always did that.
Also interesting that when first assembled, the door DIDN'T close itself at first... not sure it it needed to wear a litle, or if it just needed the added weight of having items back in the door shelves.
Love the great website... just typed in the model number and the parts I needed, complete with drawings to make sure, were right there. Great UI.