TFK22PRAAAA General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed two screws at the top of the door, lifted the door off. I got lucky: the broken cam was the one on the door (easy to remove), not the one on the body of the refrigerator (tough to remove).
There is a shim which was also broken - no way to know that ahead of time. I bent a 5/8" lock washer flat and it served acceptably as a shim.
It would be helpful if PartSelect.com could include with its listing of the cam, the fact that (1) the shim will probably be needed, and (2) there's a very good chance that you'll need TWO of the cams as well.

Replaced the old cams with new ones, door works perfect now.

completely removed door, then replaced worn-out cam on bottom of door-simple enough; then removed hinge from bottom of refrigerator; removing old cam required drilling out the rivet that fastened cam to hinge; secured new cam to hinge with small machine screw and nut. This procedure is relatively easy but does require minor mechanical ability and having a small drill and bit set. However, replacing the two cams totally fixed the problem.

Thought I would only need one when I looked at the picture of the parts. Decided to order two just in case and after taking it apart both were broken. Needed two.
Took the top door bracket off and lifted the door off of the bottom bracket. Re-assembled cams, put a little white grease on all moving parts, placed the door into bottom bracket and installed top bracket. Adjusted top bracket to make door line up with edge of refrigerator and all is well.

I did not realize I needed 2 cams to complete repair. Door cam was riveted in. I had to drill out rivet and replace with nut and bolt. Otherwise it went quite sommothly. At first I just replaced the cam on bottom of refridgerator but door was not quite right when closing. Further inspection showed the door had the other half of cam that also needed replacement. Needed 2 orders. Paid for 2 shippings.

Took the door contents out and put them on the counter, took the door off the hinges by unscrewing the 2 screws on the top of the Fridge and lifting the door off the hinge onthe bottom. Then laid down the Fridge on the kitchen floor and replaced the Door Closing Cam, keeping in mind the order of the 3 shims and other things on the bottom of the door. Simple.

The same as the vidio, very easy. Thank you

Replaced both upper and lower cam's. Removed door from refrigerator, removed bolts on door cam on bottom of main door and replaced cam, then removed bolts from door hinge assembly, drilled out rivet holding on cam, replaced with new cam and re-riveted.

Pulled the outter cover off, removed the electronic board, replaced the flapper and put it back together again.

Removed the top cover using a Phillips screw driver to access the top 2 screws holding the bracket. Once the bracket was removed, lifted the door off the bottom hinge. Replaced the door closing cam, replaced shims and screws. Placed the door back on the bottom hinge, inserted the top bracket and secured.
This was the ultimate resolution to the problem. The problem I encountered was getting all of the correct parts. It took me 3 tries to finally identify and receive the parts needed to make the repairs. Using Part Select made it easy because they had the parts I needed. My 3 tries were partly my error and does not reflect on Part Select. I would recommend others use Part Select when choosing their replacement parts.

1st: Order (2) closing cams! One for the hinge pin / bracket and one for the bottom of the door.
The closing cam on the door was where the Dremel type tool is required, since you have to grind the head off of a factory rivet.
I installed the cam with an aluminum pop rivet.
Next, remove the bracket on the bottom of the door with sockets and install the second closing cam.
Re-attach the top door hinge pin and align visually; tighen all bolts. Job finished, but more important , my wife is not nagging me about the repair that I put off for over a year!!!!

Removed refrigerator door and replaced bottom door pivot with the included mating cam and the door closing cam on the bottom of the door.

I didn't know that there were two mating cams and only ordered the door closing cam which I read online was the problem. It was the number one part on the part select list. The number two part was a kit including the door closing cam and the pivot with mating cam attached. It would have been helpful if there had been some notes that said check condition of both cams before ordering the part. So I have a spare door closing cam and paid an extra $19 including $8 shipping which negated a return.

The repair is easy - getting the right parts the first time is the trick.

Why don't they just tell you that you have to buy 2 cams. I have now replaced the cams on both doors. The other door broke about 4 years ago. Fortunately the first time I read the user commetns or I would've bought just one. It is a quick easy fix. The longest step is drilling out and replacing the rivet. Everything else is done with a nut driver.

removed the door, installed the cam riser, and reattached the door. It took longer to remove the contents in the door than it did to install the cam riser.

took off the panel, took out 4 screwws, took out old flap, installed new flap, put screws back in , and put trim back on.