GBS20KBRABB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

The first and most important step was to diagnose the problem. To do this I found the Parts Select website and the part I thought was the problem. The previous repairs stories helped me to pin point the problem. The mother board came within a couple of days. All I had to do was take the back plate/guard off, unplug the connectors in the back, unclip the mother board and then do the reverse over again. The only problem was the ground wire. I had to take the one off that came with the part and switch it out with the old one, because it would not connect to my refrigerator. This was fairly simple and in about 30 min. I was done and had our refrigerator back. Luckily we had another in the garage as a back up so we didn't loose any food.

Thanks Parts Select

removed cover from rear of refrigerator. disconnect mother board connections. Unplug first, used needle nose pliers to squeeze plastic tabs holding on motherboard and replaced old with new and plugged back in connections. Plug back in refrigerator and done.

Easy

On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.

the new board was more complicated than the old, however the install instructions seem to have anticipated this. It works for mow. thanks for inquiring'

Very simple fix by replacing the mother board. Your "how to" video made the repair even easier. The appliance repair estimate was over $400. I saved over $200. I already recommended your site to several other people. Thanks for making it so easy

Found out via searches that the most likely failed part was the Main Control Board. A simple repair with basic tools and a HUGE savings. Thanks to everyone here for the posts.

PS - on my particular GE model PFS22SISBSS there was no need to cut any wires as per the instructions because the wires did not exist on this unit.

I easily removed the screws and then removed the board and took a picture so I would remember how to re-connect it. It was really easy and now my refrigerator is working great. If I can do it anyone can do it. My husband was amazed that I did it all by myself.

Removed the old frame replaced with new one

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

very easy repair, simple exchange

I unplugged the refrigerator. I removed cover plate with nut driver. I removed all wire harness plugs from old board and removed old board using needle nose pliers to squeeze existing holding clips. Old board came right out. I then snapped new board into place and replaced all the plugs. I replaced cover with nut driver and plugged in the refrigerator. Its been two weeks and all seems to be working fine.

I ordered a new electronic board from GE. Took the cover off of old board located on back of refrigerator. Removed old board and installed new. Instructions were included. I also visited the GE website and watched an installation video. Very good instructions.

Opened the back panel and removed the old board and replaced it with the new one. The new board had a couple of extra connectors that are not used. Replaced the cover and turned it back on, everything was working fine after that. This is the second refrigerator that has lost the main board in a month, Putting surge suppressors on both.

Ice & Water dispenser did not dispense. When pushing on the dispenser lever, the entire unit briefly lost power and reset as though the appliance was unplugged. I heard a click from the back of the unit where the main board was located.
Fridge made ice but didn't operate. I determined the micro-switch and solenoid were working properly. So the only thing that could be wrong was the board.
Removed main board panel with screw/nut driver. Unplugged board connections. Un-snapped main board from housing assembly. Installation is the reverse.
Very easy. Only needed was a screw/nut driver. Electrical connections are easy since the harnesses can only fit to their own connection. No way to make a mistake.
Took no more than 10 minutes.

Problem solved!