TFX22PPBECC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I used the same steps as described in other descriptions listed here. Since I was changing the hinge assembly on the freezer side the difference I discovered was that there was a nylon water hose inside the hinge assembly that I did not at first know how to remove. I finally called a repairman I happened to know and following his instruction simply snapped the hose loose where there was a connector and placed a cloth under it to catch the moisture that drained. Having done that, the rest of the assembly went just the same way as the other instructions listed here said that it would. Door now functions like new.

The hardest part was moving the side-by-side refigerator out from the wall. After accessing the back of the unit ,it was a matter of removing a few screws to remove the back plate. The valve was attached with one screw that held it to the unit. After disconnecting the electrical and water lines the valve was out. Replaced the new valve in reverse order. Everything works great.

Replaced flapper

Unplugged refrigerator.
Disconnected inlet water line.
Disconnected outlet from leaking valve.
Unplugged electrical connections.
Reversed with the new part.

Plugged it back and there were no more leaks.

Turned off power, removed cover from Ice maker, checked resistance across thermostat for zero (read open), all other switches read proper value (when activated). Ordered and received thermostat. Removed Ice Maker from freezer, removed two screws holding ice tray to Control Assembly. Removed Thermostat and replaced with new one. Applied Silicone Sealant to face of Thermostat for adhesion to ice tray when assembled. Remounted Ice Tray to Control Assembly and remounted in freezer. Works Great...

After changing the water filter to eliminate that, I did some research and determined it was probably a water valve. As this unit has a primary and secondary, and the secondary feeds the door (after receiving water from the primary) I mistakenly replaced the secondary. It was the primary water valve which was trickling enough water to keep the icemaker happy but not enough to drive the water on the door. In the future, I will do a test with a spare piece of water line which I ultimately did to figure this one out.

Disconnected power. Removed evaporator cover in freezer. Removed the bad defrost heater. It is a glass tube about 10" long. The tube was black since the internal heater wire burned out. Use a hair dryer to melt ice in evaporator. Since there was excessive water coming from melt ice, I removed the back panel and took out the white plastic drain tube and collected water from the tube in a bucket. I put everything back and used the refrigerator for three days without problem, before the new heater arrived. Then I put on the new tube and everything was fine so far.

First I turned the refrigerator and water line off. Then moved to the freezer section, followed the directions, removed the two screws. Directions state to not remove them but I had to in this case. Unplugged the ice maker and removed it from the freezer. I installed the two mounting screws then tried to plug the electrical connection back in but had to use the adaptor cord furnished in the kit. The cord was a little long but I tucked it in and mounted the ice maker. Turned it on then turned the refrigerator and water back on and in a few hours had ice! Very easy to do!

removed 3 screws unplug and remove old unit. install two screws install new ice maker, tighten screws plug in and turn on. had ice in 20 min.

First turn off the power, remove the ice tray, remove the two screws holding the ice maker to the side of the freezer, use the screw driver to gently open the electrical clip for the power cord inside the freezer, remove the complete unit from freezer, bend the old stripper from the holding pin- it is flexible- it will bend, replace the new stripper on the holding pin and bend into the slot to hold it firmly, no water will come out from the fill cup into the freezer, plug in the power cord, mount back to side of freezer, you are done.

Shut off water supply to refrigerator. Unplugged electrical supply. Removed waterline from valve and valve from refrigerator. Disconnected electrical connections to valve. Disconnected water supply from valve to refrigerator. Repeated the process in reverse order using the replacement valve. Checked water in refrigerator door for proper operation and monitored area around valve for leaks before rolling refrigerator back into cabinet space.

Disconect and Removed cover from back of frig.
Removed water supply pipe (adjustable wrench).
Removed Bracket and Valve Assembly from frig (1 screw).
Marked tube placements with marker so that I could put them back correctly.
Removed power connectors from valve.
Disconected tubes from valve (not that easy to pull off).
Connect tubes on new valve. Plug power connectors back in.
Screw the Assembly back on the frig.
Reconnect water supply & test for leaks.

Bing , Bang, Boom.

as simple as taking off 4 screws from door of old one and putting door on new one and putting bucket back in place

I carefully removed the screws and laid aside in order. Taking off the ice grinders was the trickiest part, but I had read before to make sure to keep them in order. Replaced two new parts and reassembled. Pretty simple, but just keep track of where each part goes.