ZIC360NXBLH General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Pulled ice box away from wall. Took lower cardboard cover off. Shut water line off. Got my volt meter and checked the current going from the wall to the plug in at the inverter (input side), and I had the required 115 volts. Then I unplugged the connection going to the compressor (not the plug at the compressor which you cannot see until you unbolt the inverter) but the output connection side that goes to compressor. I checked the voltage and had about 13 volts not the required 115 volts. Therefore, I came to the conclusion that the inverter was bad. I ordered one from Partselect and they shipped it right away. I installed it and the ice box is back up to running order.

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.

follow the easy instructions replace 3 temperature sensors cut the wires and crimp them with new sensor and it works like new

Replaced evaporator fan motor, and this solved the whistling noise that had developed. Reviewed and followed the removal and installation instruction video as closely as possible. This was very helpful, with a few additions. For the model PS123NGPBBB GE refrigerator/freezer, there were a few differences from the video. There a was an additional cover panel that was positioned vertically at the back of the freezer compartment below the auger motor assembly. It was necessary to remove this cover (4 screws) to gain access to the auger motor cover screws. The unit also has a different light configuration with 2 lights. I found it helpful to remove these light bulbs and the corresponding light fixtures in order to remove the evaporator motor assembly. As mentioned in the video, it was necessary to cut the 4 wires from the wire harness of the new motor, and use butt end connectors to reattach these wires to the corresponding wires in the unit. Total job took between 1 and 2 hours, and the motor change solved the noise problem.

Other than having to bend the bracket 90 degrees it was an easy install.

After determining that the ice maker on this relatively new refrigerator would make ice cubes if it received the proper amount of water. Ordered the valve and received in a couple days. Using a nut driver, removed the cardboard cover from the back of the refrigerator. Removed one screw holding the valve bracket to the fridge and removed another screw holding the water supply line and the water line to the ice maker in place. Pulled plug on fridge and removed 2 wires from valve. Removed inlet and outlet lines from old valve and reversed the process installing the new valve.

Unplug refrigerator and turn water supply off to the ice maker. Remove the screws holding the bottom cardboard-like cover from the lower back of the refrigerator. Remove the water supply line to the old solenoid with 1/2 inch wrench. Unplug the two power supply wires to the old solenoid. Remove the screw that holds the solenoid to the back panel of the unit. After the solenoid is pulled out, remove the output hose with a 1/2 inch wrench. The configuration of the replacement solenoid is likely a little different than the original, but it seems to be rather universal and will fit back into place and perform properly. The new solenoid does not use a compression type nut to secure the output line. It's just a simple push-in connection. The wires may have to be rerouted a little, just keep them clear of the evaporator fan blades Reverse the removal procedure and you're done.

thats what I did is remove the teo screws and took the old single outlet valve out. And put the new one in and put the screws back in. First turned off the water and put the water back on after I was threw and no leaks.

unplugged the old valve and disconnected the water line, then reconnected water line on new valve and plugged it in. It was an easy process but unfortunately that did not fix the problem. It is the ice maker it self so I will be ordering a replacement ice maker.

I'm not a DIY-er, and wasn't sure a 20 year old refrigerator was worth the repair, but for $30 I could afford to be wrong. The swap is pretty intuitive, especially in my case since the problem was that the water tube from the valve to the ice maker had detached from the coupling. So I didn't have to cut anything off, just inserted the tube into the new valve. Reconnected the supply line, screwed the assembly back on the refer, and Bob's your uncle. Other than unloading some canned goods to lighten the refer, longest process was finding the right size nut driver in my disorganized tool tray. Be aware, there are NO instructions included with the part. Found a good video on you tube that confirmed the obvious. Glad I took a shot!

Removed the old water valve from back of refrigerator by using a screwdriver. Pulled water line off old valve that runs into the fridge and inserted it into the new part. I used a pair of pliers to take off water line that runs into the water valve from the house. Screwed the water line back onto the new valve. Took about 10 minutes.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.

I loosened the compression nut on the valve with my fingers and pulled the water line free from the valve. On the other end, I just pulled it from the hose clamp. Installation in reverse. Force the water line into the fitting on top, Slide the old nut over the line on the bottom. Screw the nut onto the valve. Reach inside the freezer and turn on the ice maker. Done. Before replacing the cardboard grill, you should vacuum the coils on the bottom, front and back. If practical, push it outside and blow it out with an air compressor or a leaf blower.

Three easy steps, take off old part then all you do is tighten nut on one end of part and then just push other end of pipe down in slot. Did half to remove nut off the top end of tube very simple to do