RCE25RGBBFWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

The right side of the three left three tines must be shaved about 1/8" to allow the ice remover blades to pass unimpeded.The part should be manufactured better.

Once the icebin is removed, the disassembly is pretty straight forward:
-Remove all ice and allow the ice bin to reach room temperature, because frozen plastic will crack easily.
-Remove the 2 philips screws on the bottom front and release the 2 tabs on the top of the cover unit.
-Disengage the steel rod, but first make note of the spring position.
-Lift the inner assembly out from the main front bin unit, which will remove the ice screw in the process.
-Disengage the ice screw and carefully twist the crusher plate around the screw.
-Manipulate the new crusher plate around the flanges of the screw, be patient, as this can be a time consuming endeavor until you finally find the right twisting location to enable the new crusher plate to clear the flanges of the screw.
-Once in position, reattach the entire assembly and rod back into place.
-Just take your time and make note of all removed component locations.

Part: Dispenser Crusher cover: after whatch the movie on line: How to change the dispenser crusher cover, was very easy to do the job. The video is excelent and show in details wht to do. No problem at all. Changed the part, fixed the problem, works as a brand new.

Empty ice. Removed cover 2 screws.Replaced cover & that was it

After inspection of the new door recess assembly, I realized that I could use sidecutters (electronic assembly type) and 'clip' off the inward lock tabs of the old recess assembly and disengage it from the crank door arm without any further disassembly of the refrigerator door. It was easy to 'unhitch' the tang from the crank arm and wiggle it out through the external opening of the ice/water dispenser compartment. I reversed the process and inserted the new assembly through the external opening of the compartment. The new door recess assembly snapped into place on the crank arm and fit tightly against the ice chute opening, correcting the issue caused by aging distortion of the old rubber seal cup portion of the door recess assembly.

FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS OF YOUR VIDEO

Like I said I was getting too much ice. Typed it in on google and this site was one of the listings. I went to your site and found out the ice crusher cover was broken. The broken pieces in my glass with the ice cubes was another indication but I didn't know what it was called. I watched the video before ordering and I figured I could do this so I ordered the part. 3 days later it was here so I took the ice bin out of the freezer and let it get warmed up like the guy said in the video. I watched the video while the part warmed up. Now its time to start. I kepted the video on the computer screen just in case. I took my time and about 30 min I was making ice again. "WATCH THE VIDEO" Thanks for having this for me to watch. Made the job a piece of cake!

took off the front panel, removed the auger and front piece, removed the pin and spring and installed them on to the new piece and then put everything back together

I made my wife fix it.

Watched an online video that I had seen before that helped immensely step by step, I fixed before and now just lowered freezer setting so ice bucket doesn’t get as full and freeze the deflector and jam deflector, causing it to break.

removed ice bucket from frig. removed screws to dis assemble the box to get to the auger assembly,removed stripped nut replaced reassembled be care not to let the rest of the assembly fall from auger there are a lot of blades and spacers to try to get back to proper position.

Following the advice of others on this site, I popped out the control panel by pushing up through the 2 outer-most holes on the under-side of the panel (the middle hole is unused). I installed the new solenoid exactly as shown in the PartSelect video. The new crank, spring, and flapper installed easily as well; I did apply a little grease to the hinge points on the crank to ensure no binding. I also installed a new microswitch. The wires are best removed from the old switch with a needlenose pliers. The old switch looked like it had some grease on the switch (where it makes contact with the cup lever) so I put some grease on the new switch as well. All-in-all, very easy and the frig works like new. It's nice to hear the flapper slam shut 4 seconds after dispensing ice.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.

looked at the video you supplied for repair.. that made it so easy to repair the problem. I felt quite confident in myself after the video.The repair went smoothly and the refridgerator wotks super thank you so much Rick

Replacing was easy. Cleaning took the longest. Order screws with parts, I could not find them at the hardware store. I suggest a coat of oil (3 in one) on the solenoid/piston surfaces. I probably did not have to replace them. The rust was inhibiting the piston movement. Some steel wool and oil would have probably fixed it. If the flap closing starts sounding softer, I'm going to take it apart and clean it first.