RCE25RGBBFWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

After inspection of the new door recess assembly, I realized that I could use sidecutters (electronic assembly type) and 'clip' off the inward lock tabs of the old recess assembly and disengage it from the crank door arm without any further disassembly of the refrigerator door. It was easy to 'unhitch' the tang from the crank arm and wiggle it out through the external opening of the ice/water dispenser compartment. I reversed the process and inserted the new assembly through the external opening of the compartment. The new door recess assembly snapped into place on the crank arm and fit tightly against the ice chute opening, correcting the issue caused by aging distortion of the old rubber seal cup portion of the door recess assembly.

Once the icebin is removed, the disassembly is pretty straight forward:
-Remove all ice and allow the ice bin to reach room temperature, because frozen plastic will crack easily.
-Remove the 2 philips screws on the bottom front and release the 2 tabs on the top of the cover unit.
-Disengage the steel rod, but first make note of the spring position.
-Lift the inner assembly out from the main front bin unit, which will remove the ice screw in the process.
-Disengage the ice screw and carefully twist the crusher plate around the screw.
-Manipulate the new crusher plate around the flanges of the screw, be patient, as this can be a time consuming endeavor until you finally find the right twisting location to enable the new crusher plate to clear the flanges of the screw.
-Once in position, reattach the entire assembly and rod back into place.
-Just take your time and make note of all removed component locations.

Empty ice. Removed cover 2 screws.Replaced cover & that was it

FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS OF YOUR VIDEO

The right side of the three left three tines must be shaved about 1/8" to allow the ice remover blades to pass unimpeded.The part should be manufactured better.

I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.

Went exactly by the video. Perfect job, you send the installation video with the part. You watch the video before or during, goof proof, took longer to disassemble than to replace the part.

Changing out solenoid was very easy, but you don't have to remove trim ring and it didn't fix my problem. Turns out a relay fell out of its holder in the piece you have after removing the 4 screws per the video.

its like im doing a puzzle coz i need to disassemble the other parts but i did it so quick.

I made my wife fix it.

Watched an online video that I had seen before that helped immensely step by step, I fixed before and now just lowered freezer setting so ice bucket doesn’t get as full and freeze the deflector and jam deflector, causing it to break.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.

Replaced flapper valve per website instructions. GE factory technician took two weeks to get here, charged over $100 for the call and told us we needed a new refrigerator door at a cost of over $500 to fix the problem. We sent him packing. After visiting the PartSelect website, the $5.88 PartSelect flapper valve fixed the problem. Amazing.

remove the front of were the ice and water comes out
then un scerw 4 scerw and the solenoid slides out unhook the wires and put the new one in

Take the face (the part with the buttons on the outside) off, disconnect wired connectors (three), take the screws out of the part behind that (4), and then find the solenoid value (on the right). It's attached with three screws. Mine was rusted beyond belief. I knew this was the problem, ordered a new solenoid valve, put it back in place with three screws (use new screws that fit, not the old rusty ones if possible). When testing, make sure you give the flap a couple of seconds to close. There is a delay, and I initially wasn't patient enough so I had to disassemble and assemble an extra time because of this.

Simply put: If your solenoid value is rusted and the value won't operate smoothly, order the part and install it. This is as easy as any repair could be.