PDCS1NCZHRSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

There were only 3parts listed to check omed out the defrost heater and thermostat ....thermistor checked bad ordered replacement took less than 2 minutes to replace after I defrosted it again runs fine

easy pry out, disconnect wiring, connect on new switch and press in switch.

After replacing the Defrost Thermostat, Defrost Heater Assembly, and the Main Board, I concluded that the problem must be the Defrost Thermistor, which I replaced in less than 10 minutes and it fixed the problem! I cut the wires on the old thermistor and connected the new one after stripping the wires and taped the new connections with electrical wire. Fast and easy repair (the last part anyway ;).

per your instructions

changed sensors did not repair problem,replaced damper with mechanical damper fixed problem.

took out shelves and removed the back plate my removing 2 screws with a nutdriver.removed the old defrost timer and defrost heater which was really easy.then installed the new ones.the video i watched on the website was really helpfull.

The repair is a snap, you can watch the video and it will put you on the right path. My story is more about the service that Part Select gave me. I used a small box fan on low as a temporary fix. My model number was worn off from the box wine we store in that particular place. So I ordered the part based on looks, well it was wrong. Called Part Select and we talked, the nice lady on the other end said OH it must be this fan motor. Send us back that one, and I'll get this out too you. I'll credit your account for $7.99, and it cost me $8.99 to ship back the wrong part. Wow, the next day I received the new motor. They sent it overnight! I thought it would be 5-6 days! Unbelievable. I will use this company for any, and all my repairs.

We just pried off the fan blades and pushed on the new part. Could not have been easier. The rat has been permanently dipatched and, hopefully, that is that.

Unplugged the refrigerator first....then on the inside of the fridge, I popped the temp sensor cover off (upper LH side) and exposed the old sensor. I snipped off the old sensor about 3" down from the end and connected the new sensor (which I trimmed down to about 3" long) with some heat shrink wire nuts/connectors. Let the fridge run for a day or so and confirmed the problem was solved! Oh yeah, there was no way to tell the 2 wires apart (power vs. ground) on the sensor. However there was a manufacturer's stamp on the wires. So note the orientation of the text and mark one of the wires with a sharpie on both the old and new sensor before trimming. This will give you a reference for which wires to connect when adding the new sensor to the old wires.

First I unplugged the refrigerator. I removed the cardboard from the back and unhooked the inlet water line with a wrench and the water line to the ice maker, which was a quick connect. I unplugged the wire harness and removed the valve, then installed the new valve, plugged in the wire harness and hooked up the water lines. I turned on the water line and plugged in the refrigerator. The ice maker works great.

In the description you negelcted to mention that it was a stripped top and that all moving parts from the old top would have to be transferred to the new top. It was doable but a hint at this possibility should have been indicated. An torx wrench was needed and fortunately my son was in and had his set of wrenches with him.

The part arrived and we snapped it in. The agent for Partselect was INCREDIBLY helpful in locating the part and completing the order for me.

Did a Google search, found PartSelect.com. Their website made it easy to identify the broken part and order a replacement. For less than $30 and within a few days, I received the new part and installed it. Saved a large repair bill and didn't have to wait at home for the repair person.

1. Removed and tested defrost heater, tests good. 2. Reinstalled defrost heater. 3. Removed and tested defrost over-temperature sensor, tests good. 4. Reinstalled over-temperature sensor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 5. Removed the control printed circuit board and checked for blown fuse's, fuse's are all good. 6. Removed the defrost relay from the printed circuit board using soldering iron, bench tested the relay, it is good. 7. Soldered defrost relay back onto the circuit board, and reinstalled control board. 8. Removed and bench tested evaporator thermistor, the resistance is out of specification, ordered new thermister. 9. Installed new thermistor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 10. Re-assembled refrigerator. 11. Installed temperature monitoring and recording instrumentation for 72 hour test. The defrost cycle is running correctly with a defrost termination temperature of around 90 deg-f. The defrost cycle ran twice while running the 72 hour test. 11. Removed test instrumentation and Put the unit back into service, The thermistor was the culprit. I bought the right part on the first shot, nice.

Had to remove all the covers and fans to expose the condenser, which was difficult as the parts were frozen to it. The styrofoam covering the condenser made it almost impossible to defrost it. Therefore, I ripped the styrofoam off to expose the condenser. Was not really difficult to fix the styrofoam cover using metal tape. Replaced temperature sensor in aluminum block, and used butyl sealant to secure. Had to also re-install parts of ice-ball kit that were not well covered. Lots of parts to keep track of, but anyone could do it.