GTY22SBBJRSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

First, I had to remove the freezer drawer front. This is 8 large phillips head screws. then remove the plastic cover over the drawer slides. to do this, remove the white center screw from the slide near where it attaches to the drawer front. then the plastic cover will slide off pushing to the rear of the slide. take off the slides from the freezer walls by removing the phillips screws and pulling them towards you. They have tabs/slots in the rear. remove the center tray support and support bars, too. the icemaker has to come out, that is just 2 phillips screws but you also have to disconnect the electrical connector. just squeeze the locking wings and rock/pull. a screw in the top center of the back panel comes out. Lift and pull the back panel out. The evaporator coil appears. The thermocouple is attached to the coil in the upper right. Cut that one's wires and take it out. Just cut back about an inch from the back of the thermocouple, there is not much slack. Seperate and strip the wires back about 3/8 inch. Do the same for the new thermocouple. I twisted the wires together and used a solder sleeve to join the wires. The sleeve is just a little plastic tube that has a ring of solder in it that melts with heat gun heat. You can join the wires using butt connectors or whatever method appeals to you. I just wound the extra wire and put a cable tie around it, there is plenty of hiding space in that area. Make sure the new thermocouple is contacting the coil firmly.At this point, for a test, I left everything apart, propped the drawer against the opening and plugged the fridge in. Note that the evaporator fan will not start spinning immediately! It will just sit there making little bumps like it wants to go. The temp in the coil has to get settled before the electronics in the refridge will tell the fan to spin. It takes maybe 20 minutes. Reassemble. Fridge and freezer work great. It does take several hours for all to get cold again.

I followed the video instructions. It looked easy to do and it was. the video gave helpful little thing about the repair that made it easy. And it worked

Open up the freezer make shore the fan is running/unplug the unit take out the Shelf,s take a 1/4 inch nut driver and take the back panel out pull out the ice box pull up on the back panel and pull it out to expose the coil it should be blocked with ice if it is take a blow dryer and defrost it unplug the fan and push it up. On top of the coil you will fiend the defrost timer take your hand and unstrap it and pull it out. Cut the wires and strip the wires back enough take the new part and wire nut the wires together and tape with electrical tape and put back on the coil. Put every thing back together your dun plug the unit in and wait over night if you can to let every thing cool.

followed part select video instructions

The mother board was bad....solder the board and it works like a charm.

Replaced all the sensors in both the feezer and refrigerator.Even though it colder now it still is not cold enough.Freezer won't freeze items but is cold and refrigerator still not real cold

watch you tube demo how to do it.

I called a repair shop and they said the control bd. was bad. They replaced it and about 2 weeks later it happened again. They came out again and replaced the bd. under warranty. About a week later it happened again. This seemed like too much of a coincidence, so I looked around on the internet and found your site. The video showed how to replace the freezer safety thermostat which I ordered on Sunday and received on Tuesday. By then the coils were iced up again. I completed the repair in about half an hour. So far the old GE is working like new. Thanks for the help. I just wish I hadn't spent over $400 for incompetent repair people in the first place. Thanks again, you guys are great! By the way the part only cost about $17 including shipping.

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.

Followed the repair video, was spot on!!

Replaced above parts and the noise problem was not resolved. Ordered a new motor, fan blade and another set of grommets from PartSelect. The parts were delivered the next day. Took me about 15 minutes to swap the new parts in. It's been 3 days since the repair and the noise has not returned.

luckly i have a bit of experience in refrigeration im an hvac technician by trade. this repair was a bit tricky in that i did not know at first if it was a Temperature Sensor issue or the main control board. I had tested the defrost termination thermostat and the defrost heater and as i suspected they were ok. Next i wanted to test the thermistors (temp sensors) it is hard to find technical data on these fridges. I needed to test the thermistors resistance @ a certian temperature to ensure they were working properly but where do u get such data? I also wanted to know some information about the logic programmed into the board (i.e when do you initiate defrost etc. . .). I had no such luck so i figured since i tested the defrost heater and thermostat and they were ok and all of the evap fans and such were working i'd order a circuit board and new thermistors. Got the CORRECT PARTS from this site in 2 business days and my fridge is working great! changing the parts was really easy, figuring out which parts to change was the only difficult thing about this job.

I looked at your video . very nice. job went fast. thank you mike.

Based on instruction I replaced the defrost thermostat and the temperature sensor. There was no improvement. The defrost thermostat was supplied with orange and red wires. the original wires were orange and pink. I connected the 2 orange wires and the pink to the red. So I don't really know if that is the problem or not. currently I don't know what to do next anyone got an ideas? It has dual evaporation.

first unplug unit then pulled the inside back freezer cover off piled towels around and defrosted the the unit thoroughly. located the defroster unit tested for continuity was good so i replaced the temp sensors they were just nip off the old one and splice in the new one. also replace the defroster thermostat was the same nip and splice. *the parts shop did not find the model #i have but knowing those parts are interchangeable with all G-E models i ordered the parts