GTJ17BCZ4RSA General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Replace temperature control. That fixed it. Also, removed plastic bag obstructing air vent in freezer which added performance. Fridge works good now.

I found instructions on the web about how to do this repair, so I ordered the part with confidence. But the instructions simply said "pull out the old switchlight". That was actually somewhat difficult as the clip on the side intended to hold the part in was stubborn. I eventually used a utility to slice off the clip. From that point, it was just a matter of plugging in the new switchlight , which was very simple.

Unplug refrigerator and turn water supply off to the ice maker. Remove the screws holding the bottom cardboard-like cover from the lower back of the refrigerator. Remove the water supply line to the old solenoid with 1/2 inch wrench. Unplug the two power supply wires to the old solenoid. Remove the screw that holds the solenoid to the back panel of the unit. After the solenoid is pulled out, remove the output hose with a 1/2 inch wrench. The configuration of the replacement solenoid is likely a little different than the original, but it seems to be rather universal and will fit back into place and perform properly. The new solenoid does not use a compression type nut to secure the output line. It's just a simple push-in connection. The wires may have to be rerouted a little, just keep them clear of the evaporator fan blades Reverse the removal procedure and you're done.

Went right on

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

I slid the old crisper drawer cover out, and slid the new one in. Then I respaced the other shelves, making room for the third shelf, and put the new shelf in. Apart from the time it took me to unpack the boxes these parts came in, and to remove my groceries from the fridge, the "repair" itself took all of about 90 seconds.

Removed the old water valve from back of refrigerator by using a screwdriver. Pulled water line off old valve that runs into the fridge and inserted it into the new part. I used a pair of pliers to take off water line that runs into the water valve from the house. Screwed the water line back onto the new valve. Took about 10 minutes.

After removing all items from the broken top, I removed both drawers and crisper top. I then slid the new top in place and replaced the drawers which easily slid into the grooves in the underside of the top.

I'm not a DIY-er, and wasn't sure a 20 year old refrigerator was worth the repair, but for $30 I could afford to be wrong. The swap is pretty intuitive, especially in my case since the problem was that the water tube from the valve to the ice maker had detached from the coupling. So I didn't have to cut anything off, just inserted the tube into the new valve. Reconnected the supply line, screwed the assembly back on the refer, and Bob's your uncle. Other than unloading some canned goods to lighten the refer, longest process was finding the right size nut driver in my disorganized tool tray. Be aware, there are NO instructions included with the part. Found a good video on you tube that confirmed the obvious. Glad I took a shot!

Installation could not have been easier!

unplugged the old valve and disconnected the water line, then reconnected water line on new valve and plugged it in. It was an easy process but unfortunately that did not fix the problem. It is the ice maker it self so I will be ordering a replacement ice maker.

thats what I did is remove the teo screws and took the old single outlet valve out. And put the new one in and put the screws back in. First turned off the water and put the water back on after I was threw and no leaks.

Removed the cracked rails in the door and snapped the new ones into place.

After determining that the ice maker on this relatively new refrigerator would make ice cubes if it received the proper amount of water. Ordered the valve and received in a couple days. Using a nut driver, removed the cardboard cover from the back of the refrigerator. Removed one screw holding the valve bracket to the fridge and removed another screw holding the water supply line and the water line to the ice maker in place. Pulled plug on fridge and removed 2 wires from valve. Removed inlet and outlet lines from old valve and reversed the process installing the new valve.

The video that was attached to the part order was good, but not exactly the same as my unit. One thing I recommend is that you cover up the drain below the evaporator coil with a piece of paper and tape it down, because as I was putting the motor back I dropped a screw and it fell down the drain. So I had to go buy a new screw.
Give the cost of a repair man coming to fix a refrigerator that cost only $450 to begin with, doing this repair was well worth my time. (But I also had another refrigerator to move things to and could take my time and wait while they replaced the faulty part they shipped me.)