GSH22JGCCBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

installed new double water outlet and tube assembly and it fixed the promblem. I think the water valve was leaking by causing the tube to freeze up inside.

went to your website and viewed exploded view to find the sensor( there are two I just picked one to replace for now), pried the cover off carfully and pulled out the sensor. I snipped the wire in the middle leaving plenty to work with. I shortened the wire on the new piece, spliced the wires together and with some 3M rubberized, tape wrapped them up, replaced the sensor back into the cover and snapped in place.

First remove about 30 screws w/nutdriver that are hidden under door seal then inside of freezer door will come off. Second remove about 10 screws that hold dispenser assy to the inside of door, then support the unit with tape so you don't damage the wires that connect it. Third, pop touchpad loose, then remove three sets of wires plugged into the circuit board. Fourth, remove four screws that hold the ice chute and light assy. Fifth, now remove the 3 screws that hold solenoid. These three screws that hold the solenoid will be very rusty, you may want to replace these also. I went ahead and replaced all the related parts because they are so hard to get to. Also took the opportunity to clean in here with bleach to remove all the black mold and rust.
NOTE: when reassembling the inside of the freezer door to the outside of the door you must loosely attach the door on both sides in the middle first, then the top and bottom. Add some more screws on each side and tighten them all. Now you must check to be sure that the door is not racked. If the door is not sealed at the top or bottom, loosen the screws and twist the door a little and tighten screws and check door again for proper seal. Spent more time adjusting door to seal right than doing the actual repair.

put fridge into test mode, failed One sensor. Took it out, Tested it, Ordered part also picked up splice kit from electric store spliced it truned on and good to go

My teenage daughter and myself (2 women!)completed this task with little issue! I first made sure to read others stories as not to repeat any issues they had. Just member the threads are backwards with taking the washer end off and everything will go easy. We are both kinda handy with repair items so if that describes you than you should be fine.

I replaced the motor that runs the fan in the freezer compartment. Had to remove a number of shields to get to the fan and then some wires and screws to get at the motor. It came with a plug with 4 wires in it and I was supposed to pull 2 wires out of the old plug and place them in the new plug. Long story short the pins would not extract from the plug and the wiring harness was molded in solid plastic, so I ended up cutting the 4 wires to the motor and splicing in the new one and taping them with electrical tape. So far no more moaning and the ice cream is still hard, so I think we nailed it.

I carefully removed the trim from around the dispenser area then freed the catches in the top of the electronic card. I leaned the card forward and disconnected the electrical connections, then removed the card. I removed the four screws holding the shield to the door and removed the shield. Then I removed the funnel from the shield and removed the spring from the old funnel and placed it on the new one. I removed the light and socket from the old shield and installed the in the new one, then installed the new funnel on the new shield, used the four screws to install the assembly on the door and replaced the trim piece.

Removed the ice bin and maker, then removed cover from the rear that covered the solenoid that controls the dispensing mechanism. Replace solenoid. The tricky part here is that there is a styrofoam cover around the solenoid pin that needs to be superglued into place and oriented properly during replacement. All electrical feeds snap out neatly and are easily replaced. Reassemble ice dispenser and bin, and viola, your back in business.

As advised by the forum just replaced the defrost heater assembly now the refrigerator works perfect. did not have to replace the thermostat.
My nephew had exactly same problem on ge refrigerator - replaced the defrost heater assembly and the problem is solved. Just remove the back panel in the freezer compartment, disconnect the cable, remove the nuts and replace the assemble. It is very simple. Bought both assembly from parts select.com - got next day delivery. they are great. would do business in future.

the first thing i did was replace the water valve at the bottom of the refrigerator but that didn't work so then i spent more time researching the problem on your site and your diagnostic said to replace the ice maker so i ordered it, took the old one out, plugged the new one in and we had ice the next day.

Once I got the correct part, (the expanded view of the icemaker is confusing as it shows the partition at the back of the diagram) I removed the ice dispenser from the tub by removing the screws and disengage the tabs holding the dispenser assembly in the tub. The most difficult step was getting the disenser disengaged from the tub. I used two kitchen knives to wedge between the walls of the tub. It was then easy to remove and replace the broken inside partition and reassemble the dispenser. Works like new.

Removed outer trim by pulling it carefully out of its clips. Then disengaged the electronic display card by grabing the bottom of the card to disengage the card from the upper clips. I leaned the card forward and disconnected the wire connectors. Removed the 4 screws to take off the frame that contains the funnel. Remove the broken funnel from clips. Note study how the spring is engaged. Note position of the rubber funnel how there is a gap for the water tube. Removed the rubber funnel and attached to new funnel dispenser. Start at one end of the rubber flap and work around engaging the rubber into tabs. Replace the Funnel dispenser back into frame. Make sure the longer wire of the spring sits flat on the plastic frame and that the right elbow of the spring raps around the edge of the funnel. Secured the frame assembly back into the Refig using 4 screws and attached out trim starting withe bottom tabs engaged first.

Remove and empty ice maker from freezer . Remove two screws from bottom to remove the front panel (cover bucket). Remove one screw which holds the deflector on top of the bucket.(tray which holds the ice curbs). Remove one screw that holds the clip that holds the wire actuator rod.

To remove the the ice crusher/dispenser mechanism from the bucket I used two table knives Spread one side of the bucket with one knofe and pry up with the other to get the retainer wedge free from the bucket side. Repeat on the other side. Once the retainer wedges are free the ice crusher/dispenser with the auger attached can be lifted free from the bucket.

With a spanner wrench remove the nylon nut from the shaft. NOTE: THIS IS A LEFT HAND NUT. Note the orientation and relationship of the crusher blades. They must be replaced properly for the system to crush ice and dispense cubes correctly. Remove blades and spacers from Auger.

Reassemble in reverse order. Be sure to get the actuator rod in place in the cam for the dispensor cover before sliding the crusher/dispenser mechanism totally in place. If not in the cam correctly the crusher/dispenser may have to be removed again.

Although a little difficult the first time the project is easily done by an adventourous handy person.

First I removed the shelf and light cover, then removed 3 screws from the ice make. Then I removed 6 screws from the moter cover (back wall of the freezer) and removed it. I then removed the 2 screw holding the moter. This is where the soldering iron comes in. The wire leads from the old motor were molded into a 3" rubber holder and the end wire plastic connector held 6 prongs (2 from a thermo tube). The new motor only held the 4 moter prongs, 2 were empty. To resolve this problem I cut the wires on both the new and old motor. I then attached the old connector to the new moter with the soldering iron and shrink tubing. Replaced all the parts I had removed and started it up. Works like a champ.....

Took panel off back of inside of freezer section, took off old sensor from the evaporator, spliced new sensor into the existing wires, waterproofed spliced connections, snapped sensor back onto evaporator, then put panel back on the inside of the freezer. Really, it took only 10 minutes to fix. Now refrigerator defrosts like it used to, and temps have settled in at specified temps.