GNS22EGEAFWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

WE (WIFE) took out the old parts an replaced with new one ..Be careful to get the placement of the Grommet or they "POP" out on you. fast ship on the parts too.

This was generally an easy fix. The work was in such a confined area of our side by side and my husbands shoulders are broad so that was a little more challenging but overall a quick, easy and cheap repair doing it ourselves without having to call a appliance repairman.

Removed screws on broken mullion at top and bottom. Save screws; you’ll need them. Disposed of broken mullion panel. The wires from plug had severed and were dangling at the bottom. Removed the plug inside small opening at bottom of door using needle nose pliers . Held new mullion up to left door, lining up screw holes at top. Screwed in top screw first. Pulled female part of plug out of small opening; removed male plug. Inserted new plug located on mullion in and pushed plug back into small opening. Installed one screw at bottom. The second screw at bottom wouldn’t line up so didn’t use. Installed second screw at top. The new mullion panel functions perfectly, seals well, and works great!

Replacement was easy. Once new board was installed I let run 24 hours and the compressor would not cycle off. Unplugged for 5 minutes then plugged back in to reset. Operates correctly now.

Per vidios

take the metal cover off the defrost thermostat is on top of the coil take the thermostat off from the coil cut the two wires take the wire and strip the ends off take the new thermostat the wires are color coded wire them together put the thermostat back on coil your done real easy

You guys ought to win some sort of website Emmy. I found your site as I was searching for a new motherboard, thinking this was the cause of the temperature control problem. I took the time to go through the little diagnostic process you offer and I discovered that the much less expensive defrost thermostat was more often the root cause of the problem ($8 vs $160 for the new motherboard). The part arrived within 3 days and the installation video was enormously helpful. Removal of the rear panel was more difficult than suggested on the video. I'd suggest removing the freezer light fixture before trying to remove the panel as it is nearly impossible to bend the metal panel around the light bulb bases. Anyway, the whole job cost me about $16 for parts and delivery and the fridge is running fine. The combination of the diagnostic tool and the installation video were fantastic...far beyond expectations.

Disconnected the refrigerator for a few hours. On back of frezer compartment unscrew 4 screw to get access to Old defrost thermostat (D. T.). I cut the two wires with pliyers atached to D. T. Peel them about one inch both the old and new D. T. With plyier. Color coded put them together. I used those electrical cap wires to attach them toguether an electrical tape around it to prevent any moisture. Now working like new. Expend approximately $25. And 20 minutes of my time. (I was being charged for the repair. $250.) Now is working like new. Thanks

I removed the pan with the gliders attached. I used a socket set to remove the broken glider from the pan. Then, I put the new glider on and tightened the socket and put the whole apparatus back in the refrigerator. I am a 75 year old woman and had no trouble doing this myself.

My husband took out the old icemaker in about 5 minutes. The new icemaker was a perfect fit even though the refrigerator was >10yrs old. The only difficult part was the plug extension that was needed so that it would fit into an older appliance. The part was included, it just made the cord about 3 inches longer than it needed to. After working with it for about 20 minutes we were able to fit it on the back side of the icemaker. Now it works great!!

with a jewelry screwdriver I pried the lock tab in and pulled switch down carefully, the hardest part was that the power wire connector was stuck on good but the pliers and the jewelry screwdriver was its match for a bout 5 minute for one connection a simple pull off prong connection. After the wire connected back to switch it popped back in SNAPP

I removed the top shelf and then the existing slide. I replaced the slide and then the shelves.

The only hitch was the need for a special screwdriver which cost $5.

Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.

remove shelf above tray to access rail. remove broken rail. use screws from broken rail to attach rail to shelf.

Pop out switch, pull wires, attach wires to new switch and pop back in. Easy smeasy!