GFE27GGDBBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Linda from ST AUGUSTINE, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR11X10031
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Latch for ice box door broke off
Received replacement part. There is a cover over the ice box latch. Pried it off with a screwdriver head. Took the broken latch off replaced new latch to cover and replaced on the door.
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- Customer:
- Denise from Finleyville, PA
- Parts Used:
- WR55X46805
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
After power outage, my refrigerator would not cool after power came back.
After looking up what might be the problem, I ordered a new control
board. It was extremely easy to replace. Unfortunately it was not operational. I had to replace my refrigerator. The return process was very easy and my refund was processed quickly.
board. It was extremely easy to replace. Unfortunately it was not operational. I had to replace my refrigerator. The return process was very easy and my refund was processed quickly.
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- Customer:
- Arthur from Laguna Beach, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR49X31524
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Ice maker failure
Watched a you tube video, followed instructions, took less than 20 minutes to remove and install new ice maker. After I installed, ice maker didn’t work. Went back on you tube and learned I had to turn “on” the ice maker via the panel on the front of the refrigerator door. It’s been working great!
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- Customer:
- David from DIAMOND BAR, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR17X13240
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Mullion not working. Replaced mullion.
1. Turned power off.
2. Removed 2 screws holding plastid plate which connected electrical wire from mullion to door (requires Torq-tip screwdriver).
3. Unplugged wire plug behind the plate.
4. Lifted up old mullion from 2 slots holding it in place to remove it from door.
5. Inserted new mullion into slots on door.
6. Connected electrical wire to plug inside door.
7. Screwed 2 screws to reattached plastic plate to door.
8. Turned power back on.
2. Removed 2 screws holding plastid plate which connected electrical wire from mullion to door (requires Torq-tip screwdriver).
3. Unplugged wire plug behind the plate.
4. Lifted up old mullion from 2 slots holding it in place to remove it from door.
5. Inserted new mullion into slots on door.
6. Connected electrical wire to plug inside door.
7. Screwed 2 screws to reattached plastic plate to door.
8. Turned power back on.
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- Customer:
- Sheryl from SAINT LOUIS, MO
- Parts Used:
- RPWFE
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
I lack physical strength
I asked two strong male neighbors to do the work and told them how to do it. Follow the simple directions on the box. You can Google it, but it will tell you the same directions.
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- Customer:
- Jerry from BELLINGHAM, WA
- Parts Used:
- WR24X27948, WR60X26866
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
This model of refrigerator has a dual cooling system and it was the refer condenser fan that was making noise
You have to remove the shelves and drawer's along with the drawer mount. there is a wiring harness you need to unclip to remove the crisper electrical panel
There are six nuts to remove the lower panel at the back of the compartment where the lower drawer normally is. no need to completely remove the panel, you only need to get wiggle room to remove the fan at the base of the center panel.
There is a small triangular cover used to conceal the fan wiring harness on the right side of the center panel that you can use the putty knife to slip in on the center panel side to unclip and remove
Use the putty knife and slide it down both sides of the center panel that runs vertically to unclip it - at the base of this panel is where you'll find the condenser fan, you should be able to wiggle it out - there is a built in clip on the lower right side of the center panel that you can slip the wiring harness out of - for me this was the hardest part of the replacement as it was just awkward.
After it's removed slip in the new fan and seal and reassemble. I think the whole operation took maybe a half hour - 40 minutes. It's pretty easy all said and done.
There are six nuts to remove the lower panel at the back of the compartment where the lower drawer normally is. no need to completely remove the panel, you only need to get wiggle room to remove the fan at the base of the center panel.
There is a small triangular cover used to conceal the fan wiring harness on the right side of the center panel that you can use the putty knife to slip in on the center panel side to unclip and remove
Use the putty knife and slide it down both sides of the center panel that runs vertically to unclip it - at the base of this panel is where you'll find the condenser fan, you should be able to wiggle it out - there is a built in clip on the lower right side of the center panel that you can slip the wiring harness out of - for me this was the hardest part of the replacement as it was just awkward.
After it's removed slip in the new fan and seal and reassemble. I think the whole operation took maybe a half hour - 40 minutes. It's pretty easy all said and done.
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- Customer:
- Robert from LA PLATA, MD
- Parts Used:
- WR60X26866
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
fan noise
followed install on line
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- Customer:
- James from Federal Way, AL
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Difficulty in removing the old switch
The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.
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- Customer:
- brian from CLOQUET, MN
- Parts Used:
- WR23X29170
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Interior light would not come on when right hand door was open
Remove the screws from the two door pivot covers. Remove the covers and set aside. Remove the screws from the control board; disconnect the electrical connections; remove the door light switch, install door light switch then reinstall everything.
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- Customer:
- Daniel from Crown Point, IN
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Refrigerator light wouldn't come on.
After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.
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- Customer:
- randall from coopersville, MI
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
refriderator not cooling consistetly
1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Coto de Caza, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Interior Light did not go on due to faulty switch
I ordered two switches, replaced both with a knife in 10 minutes. Interior light works, thanks.
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- Customer:
- James from KYLE, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR71X11063
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Dairy bin did not come with the refrigerator
Slipped into place easily.
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- Customer:
- Gary from VENICE, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR49X31524
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
The in door ice-maker stopped making ice
Turn off the electrical breaker for the refrigerator. On my unit the ice-maker was inside the left door. On the inside of that door is a plastic door where the ice bin is located. Open both doors and remove the ice bin. Behind the ice bin is the ice-maker. Beneath the ice-maker is a screw holding a plastic cover. Remove the screw and unhook the electrical connections. Next remove the screw for the ice-maker. Remove the ice-maker. Replacement is the exact opposite of removal. Couldn't be easier. Always be careful when putting the screws back. They were two different lengths and head sizes. Turn backward at first to line up the threads. If you strip out the plastic, game over. Good luck
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- Customer:
- charles from SCOTTSDALE, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Defrost not working coil iced up
Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.
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